Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more)

   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #21  
I'm about a 1/2 hour south of you. Feel free to PM me if you'd like to try out my 4310. It may be a bit small for what you're looking at, but it would give you an idea of how the Deere's feel and run.

Take Care,
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #22  
Mason 156, I have 120 acres, about half woods. Last year I was looking at the Kubota L5030 with loader and back hoe and the JD 110. If I was looking this year I would also include the larger JD 4000 twenty series tractor, because of the proximity of the JD dealership. I have no complaints on my decision. Everyone likes or dislike small details about the different tractors from color to pedal arrangement curved hood etc. Find the one you like the most and feels responsive when you drive it. I would recommend HST, 45-50 HP, loader, BH.
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #23  
I run a firewood business out of my woodlot. I generally leave the skidding of logs to a professional timber cutter, but I do pull a few out. I agree with the others that suggest a utility tractor. There is absolutely no substitute for weight and wheelbase when you are skidding logs. I have one of the larger CUTs and it is very dangerous skidding logs. That's why I leave it to the professionals.

I also suggest that you skip the 3pt splitter and get a tag along splitter.... like Timberwolf. The tractor/FEL are much more useful move logs and debris.

The tradeoff with the weight is that using this tractor on the lawn will damage the turf and compress the soil. A CUT would do the yard work/mowing and would do a good job plowing the driveway. But I still bet on the larger (heavier) tractor for logging work.
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #24  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm in Killingly - right off 395. It's still rocky here, but I think at one time most of this hill was open and so a lot of the rocks are gone. )</font>

I'm pretty close in Woodstock. Junkman and LarryRB are here too. I took some pictures of rocks that I'll post when I find the memory card.

Andy
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #25  
I'll just throw in my .02 worth here. The hst is great for changing speed & direction,but getting around my woods I use yhe brakes alot to make those sharp turns,this does not work well with hst. Just something to think about. the gear trans. is not hard to learn,and its cheaper /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #26  
Good point, and I'm not disagreeing, but I think different tractors bring different features to the table that can impact how the technology is applied.

How the HST works, especially on the tractor I'm used to, pretty much removes the need for brake use. The Deere HST can stop very quickly without ever using brakes due to the switchable motion engagement. I think they call it motion match - it will stop and start very quickly, or you can mellow it a bit for easier stops and starts. I work a "tree"mendous amount in the woods and find the HST on my tractor very amenable to that type of manouever. Frankly, the only time I need to use the brakes is as a parking brake.
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #27  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( HST works, especially on the tractor I'm used to, pretty much removes the need for brake use. The Deere HST can stop very quickly )</font>

I think AMP was refering to steering brakes.. not stopping brakes.

It is quite common to stomp a left or right brake in order to make a sharper turn, while still having the throttle up. In fact.. most tractor manuals fo rthe geared units anyway usually spec turning radious with and without brakes..

Soundguy
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #28  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( the gear trans. is not hard to learn,and its cheaper )</font>

SHshshshsh You'll get us kicked out of the discussion. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.. no one wants to learn about shifting gears anymore.

I'm a gear tranny man myself... All my antiques are gears.. my NH 1920 was a gear, and my NH 7610s is a gear. For that fact.. many of the ag tractors are geared.. though the huge articulated ones are HST.


Soundguy
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #29  
It depends on the HST you're using. If you are using one with the treadle pedal (one pedal design), they put the brakes on the same side as the pedal. This, in turn, makes it almost impossible to use the brakes while turning. The only way you would be able to use the brakes while turning is if you have cruise control on, which if you are going to be working in the woods would not be best. That is the only reason I'm not to fond of these designs. I don't know why they can't just put the brakes on the other side.

The other type of HST setup is the dual pedal design. These use two pedals to control direction and speed instead of one. Also, the brakes are on the other side of the machine so brake-assisted turning is possible. The John Deere 4000 Ten, 4000 Twenty, and 110 machines use this. I think the 2210 does, too. The New Holland TC35, 40, & 45 Boomers use the dual pedal design, as well as the CaseIH twin, the DX35, 40, & 45 Farmalls. The Farmtrac 330 & 390 HSTs also use a dual pedal design.
 
   / Tractor for the 100-acre woods (and more) #30  
I don't see why any of the larger framed CUT's with at least 30 hp wouldn't do you just fine as long as you're just moving cut wood, not logs. In fact, I looked over your list and with the exception of snow plowing, I have done all of those chores and much more with my Kubota b2910. Would I go that small in your situation, well, no. But the L-series Kubotas, 3130 to 3930, should do what you are describing, IMHO. Another good choice would be the NH TC35D to TC45D.

I've found that maneuverability is very important in tight quarters if that is of concern to you. With 120 acres, it may not be.
 

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