Tractor Restorations

[Guesseral]

Well in my expereance it's all about money! I purchased a ford 841 on Ebay and drove all the way from erie pa to past detroit to pick it up it was a little rougher that I thought but so what I wanted to restore it and keep it. I already had the Jubilee and the 621 and this was the same basic tractor with lots of HP when I needed it. Well I used it for the remainder of the first summer and tore it down that winter. First off it had a loader on it but no power sterring so the loader had to go. After tear down I realized the following. The engine was in great condition seemed like it had been done on to long before there wasn't any slop at all that's good except the rear seal liaked so out it came and it got a new clutch at the same time. Some one had dropped something out of the loader and shashed the hood and gas tank, they fixed the hood pretty good so there was not much work there but it needed a new gas tank new because all of the used ones I found had holes in them. The radiator was leaking so I had to ghet a new one also. The breaks wer week and when I took that apart the rear seals needed replaced and I also did all of that. No and on and on, finally done and I have 5K into the tractor. In the interum I bought the Montana new and now I have 5K into a tractor that just sits there. Now the Jubilee needs a new motor because it blew up during the restore of the 841, so I start over because a tractor just isn't a tractor with out an engine. Just buy a new one and get it over!

 

[Bobby R]

For me, it depend upon what condition the tractor is in mechanically. For example, why rebuild the engine if it's in great shape? Same goes for the clutch or whatever else. When I do a restore, I attempt to find a tractor that is mechanically sound, or as closely as possible, and just do only what needs to be done, leaving most of my time, money, and efforts for the best and most original looks I can achieve. Of course, you have to watch what you buy, because some tractors may appear to be in good mechanical condition and turn out to burn you badly. I just got burned on a Ford 2000 I bought. About an hour after I started using it, it started smoking like a mosquito machine, and problems multiplied from there. Needless to say, I abandon the "restore" project and ended up selling the tractor for less than I gave for it.

 

[MasseyWV]

For me, it depend upon what condition the tractor is in mechanically. For example, why rebuild the engine if it's in great shape? Same goes for the clutch or whatever else. When I do a restore, I attempt to find a tractor that is mechanically sound, or as closely as possible, and just do only what needs to be done, leaving most of my time, money, and efforts for the best and most original looks I can achieve. Of course, you have to watch what you buy, because some tractors may appear to be in good mechanical condition and turn out to burn you badly. I just got burned on a Ford 2000 I bought. About an hour after I started using it, it started smoking like a mosquito machine, and problems multiplied from there. Needless to say, I abandon the "restore" project and ended up selling the tractor for less than I gave for it.

I agree that there is no point in fixing what doesn't need fixed. As for finding a good used tractor, that will likely be a challenge because I've noticed that many sellers go to great lengths to make them look pretty and have little doubt that many would do the same to make them appear to be in good mechanical condition.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. I'm pleasently surprised when I drag one home and DON'T find as much hidden damage as I THINK is there.

on many units, you can give a good guess as to what you are getting.

sloppy steering, oil pouring out the front while running.

no charge.. etc.. etc.

on some it's an easter egg hunt.

but then.. that's part of the fun too! even if you break a few eggs making the omelette ( egg pun intended! )

 

[Mike476]

I've had pretty good luck with buying old vehicles / equipment from people who keep good records of the maintenance they've done. No guarantee there aren't any problems but gives an idea what's been done and how well the owner maintains equipment.

 

[flusher]

I prefer to buy old iron that's running (maybe not running perfectly, but at least blowing exhaust out of the muffler). But I have my wish list of old tractors that I want in my collection. So when I find one of these I pounce on it, running or not.

Last non-runner I bought was a 1948 Farmall Cub. As soon as I can clear a spot in my shop, it's engine gets pulled and sent to the engine shop for a complete rebuild (low compression on all 4 cylinders). That Bolens GT1453 lawn tractor in the background in the photo is taking up space now (new engine, new seals all around including rototiller seals).



Last runner was a 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop.



It needed brake relining. Gear oil was like thick molassas when I drained the rear end. Needs new temp gauge. Otherwise it's pretty much parade ready as is.

 

[Soundguy]

last 'non runner' i bought was my farmall C it had no battery and had been setting.

I hooked cables over to my truck, and actually managed to hand crank it strted 1 time.

came back the next day to get it.. and it would not hand crank ( tried for an hour! )..

when it did run, a steady stream of oil flowed out the place hwere a front crankshaft seal used to be..

was a fun project. had no oil pressure gauge. etc. that 2nd day I came back out with a test gauge on a whip ( gauge on a grease gun hose with box of fittings ).. that's my test gauge I carry to evaluate old tractors.. etc.. had good pressure.. once we drug it off with a donor battery for coil power.. stiull wouldn't crank start / hand start at that point.. starter was all gunked up..

I prefer to buy old iron that's running (maybe not running perfectly, but at least blowing exhaust out of the muffler). But I have my wish list of old tractors that I want in my collection. So when I find one of these I pounce on it, running or not.

Last non-runner I bought was a 1948 Farmall Cub. As soon as I can clear a spot in my shop, it's engine gets pulled and sent to the engine shop for a complete rebuild (low compression on all 4 cylinders). That Bolens GT1453 lawn tractor in the background in the photo is taking up space now (new engine, new seals all around including rototiller seals).

View attachment 251222

Last runner was a 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop.

View attachment 251221

It needed brake relining. Gear oil was like thick molassas when I drained the rear end. Needs new temp gauge. Otherwise it's pretty much parade ready as is.

 

[flusher]

last 'non runner' i bought was my farmall C it had no battery and had been setting.

I hooked cables over to my truck, and actually managed to hand crank it strted 1 time.

came back the next day to get it.. and it would not hand crank ( tried for an hour! )..

when it did run, a steady stream of oil flowed out the place hwere a front crankshaft seal used to be..

was a fun project. had no oil pressure gauge. etc. that 2nd day I came back out with a test gauge on a whip ( gauge on a grease gun hose with box of fittings ).. that's my test gauge I carry to evaluate old tractors.. etc.. had good pressure.. once we drug it off with a donor battery for coil power.. stiull wouldn't crank start / hand start at that point.. starter was all gunked up..

Lookin good, SG:thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

fun to drive...

 

[Evil Genius]

So, I just bought a MF 135, don't know the year as the mfg plate is missing. It is really a kit. The engine is removed and apart. Came with a Ford front end loader.. It's all there. It has the Multi-power transmission and remote rear hydraulics.. Motor needs a bottom end rebuild.. The head was just done, as were the injectors and pump. Weirdly, it has 16.9-24 rear tires (need replacing) and has brand new front tires. I have ordered every part to rebuild the motor, including a new crankshaft, liners, oil and water pumps, etc, etc. Paid $980 for it. I hope to have no more than $3500 into when done.

I own a race car shop and have all the equipment needed to rebuild it.. But my customers are a little freaked to see the tractor sitting next to their expensive road-racing machinery.

So far I've spent $70 on the fuel to go get it, $1500 on all the engine parts and a power-steering kit. The tires should be around $850 for the pair..

It will not get a pretty restoration as it will be a working tractor, but everything that needs to work will get attention. I'm in California so it has no rust. I'll post some pics as I have time.. And I'll keep y'all informed as I progress.

-John