Tractor Split - Disconnections

[mmranch]

So I am at the point of making disconnections for the tractor split.

Electrical:
I'm hoping to disconnect electrical connections and zip-ties and leave the cables hanging on the cab or front section.

Hydraulic:
Need to drain the transmission oil and disconnect pipes/hoses.

Cooling/Heating:
Hoping to pinch heater hoses and disconnect so as to not lose my coolant (I just flushed and replaced the coolant not long ago).

AC:
This seems like a problem. I don't use AC but I would like to keep it functional. The AC hoses have a nice disconnect section that is mounted into a bracket which is attached to the rear of the engine (not sure yet how hard it is to remove this bracket from the engine). I would like to not disconnect the AC hoses as I will lose all the refridgerant from the system. If I could dismount all the AC stuff from the front section I could hang it off the cab and not lose the refridgerant.

Can the AC hoses be pinched to reduce what is lost? Are the hoses under massive pressure? How hard is it to refill the refridgerant if I lose all of it?

Thanks for any ideas!

 

[4570Man]

The biggest worry with the ac system is getting trash into the system. You should immediately cap any disconnected lines. Re charging it is fairly easy. You’ll have pull a vacuum with a vacuum pump and then add the correct amount of refrigerant back.

 

[ptsg]

Sometimes it's possible to remove the AC compressor and condenser as a whole and hang it on the cab side. Be careful to not damage the fins on the condenser.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks for this info!

A quick search shows I can get a vacuum pump kit and bulk refridgerant. But I also see the lesser recharge kits with hose & gauge and smaller cans. Is the vacuum pump absolutely necessary because the system is totally empty or would the cheaper kits work but take a long time?

Thanks again.

 

[metalbender]

Prob have to jump a pressure switch to recharge if the system is empty. If a vac pump is used, the pressure will be high enough to operate normally. Did lots of automotive ac work while in the trade. Expensive machines to evacuate and charge. Gov't course and certs required in the shop. Farm and auto stores have the quickie kits, don't need certs to purchase, go figure.

 

[chas0218]

Thanks for this info!

A quick search shows I can get a vacuum pump kit and bulk refridgerant. But I also see the lesser recharge kits with hose & gauge and smaller cans. Is the vacuum pump absolutely necessary because the system is totally empty or would the cheaper kits work but take a long time?

Thanks again.

Yes you must have a vacuum pump otherwise any moisture in the line will cause compressor failure in a very short amount of time. Also you will not get the adequate pressure to allow the refrigerant to work. The vacuum also forces the water to boil and allows you to get the moisture out of the lines.

In short, Yes you must use a vacuum pump to create a vacuum in the line then add the refrigerant.

 

[jaxs]

Yes you must have a vacuum pump otherwise any moisture in the line will cause compressor failure in a very short amount of time. Also you will not get the adequate pressure to allow the refrigerant to work. The vacuum also forces the water to boil and allows you to get the moisture out of the lines.

In short, Yes you must use a vacuum pump to create a vacuum in the line then add the refrigerant.

Every word 100% correct even if lines are plugged while disconnected (which they should be). Many auto parts stores will loan pump and gauges but there's more to it,lots more,so try to avoid opening system if possible. If you're unable to avoid opening it up,we can get into more detail before you do it.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks for this info!

I will try to avoid opening the AC system if possible. The bracket that holds the AC hoses must be disconnected from the back of the engine as the hoses can not be removed from the bracket without disconnecting them first. I will see what's possible.

Thanks again.

 

[jaxs]

BTW,no hose pinching,that will ruin hose and still not hold back the pressure.

 

[Sportsman762]

I would see if you can find plugs for all fluids and plug the lines. Then you should only loose a little bit of fluid between disconnecting and inserting the plugs. I know some tractors have disconnects on the AC that allow you to disconnect and loose hardly any fluid, much like hydraulic disconnects.

 

[Zebrafive]

BTW,no hose pinching,that will ruin hose and still not hold back the pressure.

I was going to say the same.

 

[Zebrafive]

Can you take it to a shop that does A/C work and have them pull the Freon, break and cap the lines? Then you're finished have them vacuum, leak test and refill the system.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks for all the ideas!

My tractor might have the AC quick disconnects. In the disconnect zone, where the bracket holds the lines, there's a bunch of fittings. They don't look exactly like the hydraulic disconnects with the knurled releases, but they might be some kind of quick disconnect. I will look more closely when I get out to the shop. If I do have quick releases... at the point of disconnect, can I expect a pressure release like hooking up to the air compressor?

Unfortunately, I don't have the truck and trailer to transport my tractor to town. I probably can hire someone to do it but we are heading into winter here, and by the time I get the project done no one will come up my mountain to transport. But next summer I could get someone to do it.

Thanks again.

 

[metalbender]

Highly doubt they are disconnects that hold pressure. The norm for years has been a couple of O rings on a fitting that mates with a female end having a garter spring lock. Have dealt with those leaking for a lot of years, upgraded rings were available. Diffent sizes of removal tools are easily obtained. A couple of pics would be helpful. Manufacturers prob still use them as they are the quickest, fool proof method for assembly.

 

[mmranch]

Here's a picture (not very good) of the AC disconnect zone.



I still have to look more closely and see if they are quick disconnects.

Thanks!

 

[metalbender]

Don't look like push together type in that pic.

 

[jaxs]

Only one of the "lots more" I alluded to in a previous post. If and when you find system must be opened,we can talk more before wadeing in. Quick,slow or skinned knuckles type,wear eye protection and gloves while disconnecting them. Liquid refrigerant can burn worse than steam.

 

[mmranch]

The AC connections were not quick disconnects. But I was able to unbolt the entire AC system and hang it on the cab without emptying the system so as long as it doesn't leak out... I should be able to reinstall and still have the refridgerant intact.


On the hydraulic steering hoses. These are just another hydraulic hose and should be handled accordingly, correct? Carefully bleed off pressure and drain and disconnect?

Thanks!

 

[Zebrafive]

The AC connections were not quick disconnects. But I was able to unbolt the entire AC system and hang it on the cab without emptying the system so as long as it doesn't leak out... I should be able to reinstall and still have the refridgerant intact.


On the hydraulic steering hoses. These are just another hydraulic hose and should be handled accordingly, correct? Carefully bleed off pressure and drain and disconnect?

Thanks!

Yes for the hydraulic hoses. Also cap both sides of any connection you open.

 

[mmranch]

Just drained the hydraulic fluid. The main drain plug (square plug head) has been leaking slightly (since sometime after the last fluid change) which has been making the bottom of the transmission wet in this area. In the past, I believe I used some teflon tape on the plug to seal it but when removing the plug this time there were no remnants of tape that I could see.

What do others use to seal the drain plug? Teflon tape? RTV?

Definitely want to stop the leaking.

Thanks!