Tractor split - the Insides

/ Tractor split - the Insides
  • Thread Starter
#22  
OK, so here's a picture of the input shaft seal and input shaft bearing.

tractor_split_57_small.jpg

tractor_split_58_small.jpg

The input shaft seal is easy to remove & replace. The input shaft bearing has a rubber o-ring around the outside edge. I'm reluctant to dig into it until I completely understand what's there.

The black seal has sealant around the edges. Guess I need to dig out the sealant and pry out the black plastic seal (destroying it)? Guess the new seal somehow taps into the hole?

Thanks!
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides #23  
yeah, I'd put some marine grease on them to prevent rust..

Gotta be careful greasing/oiling around the clutch disc. If it winds up on the pressure plate your clutch will slip. I'd wipe off any excess but a thin film sounds like a good idea....would make the next splitting easier, if things came to that, especially if the tractor sits up for long periods in a humid environment.
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides #24  
OK, so here's a picture of the input shaft seal and input shaft bearing.

View attachment 627677

View attachment 627678

The input shaft seal is easy to remove & replace. The input shaft bearing has a rubber o-ring around the outside edge. I'm reluctant to dig into it until I completely understand what's there.

The black seal has sealant around the edges. Guess I need to dig out the sealant and pry out the black plastic seal (destroying it)? Guess the new seal somehow taps into the hole?

Thanks!

The o ring on the bearing looks like it seals the output housing at the bearing. I would replace it.
Did you put any sealant on the OD of the seal? I use sparingly, Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No 3. I would also us it on the black plug.

I would get a new black plug before trying to remove the old one. If I had a new one "in hand" I would not worry about destroying the old one.
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides #25  
The o ring on the bearing looks like it seals the output housing at the bearing. I would replace it.
Did you put any sealant on the OD of the seal? I use sparingly, Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No 3. I would also us it on the black plug.

I would get a new black plug before trying to remove the old one. If I had a new one "in hand" I would not worry about destroying the old one.

Good points. Also, the 4 bolts that holds the output housing on, are they blind tapped holes? If they are not, you should seal the threads. Being that you have a mystery leak, take a careful look to see if a tapped hole broke out into the inside of the case.
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides
  • Thread Starter
#26  
ruffdog,

Funny you should mention that, I was just about to post this pic showing the bolt hole leakage from overnight.

tractor_split_59_small.jpg
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I will seal the threads on all the bolt holes. Might put a small bead around the outside of the whole mating flange as well.
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides #30  
ruffdog,

Funny you should mention that, I was just about to post this pic showing the bolt hole leakage from overnight.

View attachment 627779

At least you found a smoking gun in your leakage problem.....good deal. Back in the day, we would use Permatex aviation to seal threads like head bolts. It looks like there are many products to choose from now.
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides
  • Thread Starter
#31  
I'm wonder how to go about removing the throwout bearing from the hub?

tractor_split_56_small.jpg

The edges are very tight and I can barely get a pick in there. Do you think the bearing is pressed into the hole?

Thanks!
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Should I use a penetrating liquid down in the cracks to see if it will loosen up? Overall, the bearing looks to be in good shape but I would like to replace it with a new one.
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides #33  
Usually needs to be pressed out from the other side.

I'm almost sure that they make that a press fit. So even you could get a pick behind, it wouldn't move.
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Talked with my local machinist and he can press out the old throwout bearing and press in the new one when I get it.

Removed the black plug/seal. Turns out it is metal, not plastic. Was loose enough that when I touched it with a small flathead screwdriver, it slid back in its hole about an 1/8 of an inch. Put some duct tape on it and it pulled right out. Even though you can see someone applied some kind of sealant on the outside surface... it was very minimal and the seal is very loose in the hole. Needs a more substantial bead around the edge to make it seal oil.

Waiting to hear back from my dealer on parts.
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides #35  
Interesting that it is that loose in the hole, it looks like it has a retainer on the upper side,
I wonder if it should have one in the opposite side lower?
With it being loose I'm surprised it didn't have an o-ring on it.
Good Luck
 
/ Tractor split - the Insides
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Thanks for the ideas.

There are already threads in the opposite side lower hole. Looks like it was designed for two retainers but they only had one installed. Not sure the upper one was even touching the seal as the seal was able to move inward about an 1/8 " easily. I think with proper caulking, the seal will stay in place and actually seal.

I have a second retainer on order if I can get the parts moving. Wish I could order parts directly from TYM.

Thanks again.
 

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