Tractor Storage Question

[Foozle]

Hi all,

Wasn't really sure where to put this as there is no "garage" forum, so I thought I'd post here. On a separate thread I asked a bunch of questions about my first tractor purchase and after some consideration, I've settled on the L5740. I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but will likely this weekend sometime. A rough list of all the items I'm considering are:

L5740 HSTC (4wd, Cab)
Front End Loader LA854
Tiller (Woods, GT 60)
Finishing Mower - 6' (Woods, PRD-7200)
Rotary Mower - 7' (Woods, BB84): 2,500
Tooth Bar (Woods, CETB650)
Echo Bearcat Chipper/Shredder (SC5504B/73554)
Box Scraper (Woods, GB-72)
Bucket grapple (not sure on brand/type yet)
18' or 20' BetterBuilt trailer, 7 ton

After I get all this stuff, I'll need somewhere to store it. I have a pole barn and car garage with an old JD 50 tractor, Farmall tractor and other stuff and can make room temporarily for everything except the trailer. But, I'm planning to have a barn/garage built to hold my 18' fishing boat and all the new tractor stuff above (including the trailer, if possible).

I like the idea of doors on both ends of the garage so I can pull straight through and not have to back everything in. Wasn't sure whether to get overhead doors, or swing out doors. Also not sure about what a comfortable size would be and whether to use trusses or a center pole for support. Anyone have thoughts on a good setup for this and other items to consider when having built? Also, is it worth trying to make room for the trailer or just keep it outside? Would take up a lot of room, but I suppose I could rest the FEL on the trailer to make room, and also perhaps store some of the attachments on the trailer when not being used?

Thanks in advance!

Dave

 

[rbargeron]

Barn size and layout is all a matter of individual taste - but IMHO the handiest feature of any implement storage area is a level flat floor - whether it's concrete, or asphalt or well-compacted TRG. Makes hooking up 3-point attachments and FEL on/off much nicer. If it is big enough to hold everything you have now, it will very soon be too small . I don't store anything on my trailers - that way they're always open and available when I need them. A drive-thru is a great idea but needs to be BIG to hold everything and still have a clean center aisle.

 

[ampsucker]

i would consider a "cheap" carport or lean-to type structure for keeping the trailer covered. your biggest concern is water sitting in one place and UV damage to the wiring and tires.

agree that trusses are the way to go so you have max open floor area inside.

i'm always amazed at how many farmers just store their tractors outside year after year. i would think it would be worth trying to protect that investment better, although i have to admit the old ones do keep starting up time after time even when neglected like that.

as far as doors, i would go with overhead. the hinges don't wear as badly as large swing out doors, it's easy to put an electric opener on them, and with the right adjustments, you can get them to seal up pretty good to keep weather and critters out.

amp

 

[texasjohn]

I have drive thru, rollup doors from one end to the other. I set them 6 foot from one side, thus allowing shelving all along that side and maintaining as much work space as possible elsewhere.

I staked out my planned floor area in the dirt, then drove/placed everything In it that I planned to use.... and expanded my plans to 40X60 feet.... I initially planned to have leanto's on each side, but ran out of $$ first... still need the leanto's to store equiment under. length is sufficient for me to pull my longest trailer, 30 ft, plus pickup, 20 ft, into building and still walk around each end.

 

[Tom_H]

A paved floor and custom (homemade) built dollies will make all those attachments a snap to move around, roll right up and allign perfectly with the 3ph.

I'd also recommend incorporating into the design a support post on each side and a very strong beam suspended between them in the center of the building. This will make a good support for an electric hoist, chain hoist, or both. This makes lifting attachments off of their dollies for maintenance (MMM for blade sharpening and cleaning) easy. If you ever need to pull an engine, etc. this beam and hoist would be handy.

 

[C6rider]

I thought trusses were the way to go so I built mine that way with o/h doors on both ends. Then I bought a 4 post lift. I can't lift my truck up high enough to get full standing headroom because of the trusses. Seems like we always forget something.

 

[art]

You didn't say how many sq ft your house is but a garage should be at least twice it's size!

 

[texasjohn]

I have EVERYTHING in my workshop on wheels except the perimenter shelving. I rearrange stuff regularly... move things out of the way to one end and get tractor in with FEL and use it raised high (wonderful to have no cross bars, high roof, no support posts) loaded with stuff for putting high on the top shelf.

Harbor Freight wheels/castors are satisfactorily inexpensive and functional. Recommend the 330lb ones... I discover that I always overload the lighter ones even when I think I won't.

 

[RobJ]

i would consider a "cheap" carport or lean-to type structure for keeping the trailer covered. your biggest concern is water sitting in one place and UV damage to the wiring and tires.


i'm always amazed at how many farmers just store their tractors outside year after year. i would think it would be worth trying to protect that investment better, although i have to admit the old ones do keep starting up time after time even when neglected like that.

as far as doors, i would go with overhead.
amp

I would forget trying to garage the trailer. Wasted coverd space IMO plus it would probably end up full of stuff anyway that you would have to move when you use it twice a year. Cover the tires, park it on concrete and put it out back somewhere where you want to kill the grass.

Tractors are really like cars, designed to stay in the weather. It's just our little girly tractors that like a garage. My Grandaddys large farm tractors stayed out in the fields during the season. He never waxed them either. The fuel and oil came to them, you couldn't drive them to the shed 2-3-4-5+ miles away every night. Things with a lot of moving parts he would try and cover, pickers, combines, planters, etc. Of course they were only used once a year.

Yeah overhead door the best, most expensive to but worth it IMO.

 

[v8dave]

Best reason for two doors, front and back, is ventilation. Nothing like a little breeze to cool things down in the summer--not to mention getting rid of the exhaust fumes while you're hooking up those implements.

 

[mikim]

I always thought if I had the $$ I'd like a 6 bay style garage with 12 oh doors. 6 on each side, giving you 6 pull throughs.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'd avoid the swing out doors. Once they get over four feet wide, they will sag over time. It's just a combination of wood moving and the never ending pull of gravity. The only advantage to a swing type door system on big opening si that it's cheap. In the long run, it's not worth the savings.

My opening is ten feet wide. It's big enough to get my trailer through it, but there's not much room on either side. 12ft would give you allot more ease in getting in and out of there. I don't store any vehicles, tractors or impliments in my shop. Those to into the leanto on the side of the building. I like to have the floorspace for working on projects.

Concrete floors are a must. Anything else will just annoy you in time. Concrete is always going to get more expensive, so do it now and get it over with. It will only be harder to put it in later on.

Eddie