Tractor Sizing TRACTOR WEIGHT as ONE (1) CRITERION in TRACTOR SELECTION

[workinonit]

 

[ptsg]

If it wasn't for the traction and weight, I couldn't have pulled my 2 shank ripper about 16" deep on hard clay.

 

[workinonit]

If it wasn't for the HP and torque you couldn't have pulled it either.

 

[workinonit]

Oh, and don't forget the 4WD that was engaged. Without that you wouldn't have pulled it 2 feet.

 

[Deleted member 371759]

A good thing to look for when looking at tractors is at what RPM does the engine make its max HP. I would chose a engine that makes its maximum horsepower at the lowest RPM. I would chose a 40 horse that makes its max HP @2000RPM over a 50 horse that makes its @3000RPM

 

[Egon]

Implements usually come in HP per when it comes to sizing.
I’ve never seen weight per when it comes to matching tractor and implement.

 

[Torvy]

Implements usually come in HP per when it comes to sizing.
I’ve never seen weight per when it comes to matching tractor and implement.

Check out ditch flails. They all have a minimum weight for the tractor.

 

[workinonit]

Ditchbank/ boom cutters are a different animal. Their weight distribution is so skewed it's amazing they don't require even more tractor weight than they do. I've been running a Hardee ditchbank cutter for close to 30 years and I can say it's by far the most dangerous implement that I own. It's not nearly the beast behind my 100 HP tractor that it was behind my 55 HP tractor. Hmm, wonder why that is? Maybe that the higher HP tractor weighs more? But I see these flail mowers and knowing what I know about running offset weight I'm waiting for the tractor in the ditch or tractor over the bluff or tractor in the pond post. They are awkward, especially behind small tractors.

 

[Torvy]

Your 100 HP tractor is only 90 HP, but if you got the 100 HP model it would be the same exact weight.

At some point HP goes up to handle the additional weight, but more HP often does not mean more weight. Suggesting more HP gets more weight could seriously mislead some people reading this, especially those who may be new to tractors.

For instance, the TYM 2515 is just under 3000 lbs and 25 HP. The JD 2038r weighs 20% less and has about 50% more HP.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

For actual farming operations where you are using ground
engagement equipment doing actual plowing and tillage with turn plows and harrows weight is always your friend.

 

[jeff9366]

So what is a good reliable/easy to maintain/easy to run & learn on? I've seen a few older Honda, Wheel Horse, Ford, Simplicity-and it seems like people LOVE those & are not so happy with the newer models.

The category you are seeking information for is the Lawn & Garden Equipment category. T-B-N has one forum dedicated to this broad category:

Lawn & Garden Equipment

General forum for lawn & garden equipment discussions.

www.tractorbynet.com

Lawn & Garden "tractors", perhaps better titled as "riding lawnmowers" almost always share the following attributes:

• less than 600 pounds machine weight
• Gasoline engines rather than diesel engines
• Two wheel drive (2-WD drive)
• World standard Three Point Hitch absent
• Front End Loader (FEL) absent
• Turf/Lawn Tires

The combination of 2-WD, low weight and turf tires can make operation on hills difficult due to lack of traction. Lawn & Garden tractors may be tippy on slopes.

I would like the ability to haul rocks/dirt/wood etc from one side of the yard to the other.

You may tow at 2 - 5 bushel capacity, dump capable cart, connected to the mower rear drawbar with a pin, across flat ground.

VENDERS: garden tractor cart