Grumpycat
Super Member
A simple Bauer battery electric chainsaw:
I use a toss bag and pull string, or get out the slingshot with trigger to launch toss bag and pull string, then pull a bull rope. Amazon.comHow do you get the rope 30' up, especially on say a 6-8" trunk?
One use case I can see with the jack is that it doesn't need an anchor.
With these smaller trees that make wedging difficult I usually use my rope come-along -- the stretch in the rope is a plus in this case because with decent tension on the rope, it continues to pull for just a bit longer than a wire cable, but you still need an anchor in the direction you're felling, and if there's no good tree that way, and you can't get a truck or tractor there... the jack could be useful.
Useful enough to pay for one? Not me, on this land, but I can imagine a place where it could be useful - especially if you're working on someone else's property and can't position a truck just anywhere.
So you toss it over a branch in one direction, then go behind the tree and toss it back so that the rope goes around the tree? Assuming there's no crotch.I use a toss bag and pull string, or get out the slingshot with trigger to launch toss bag and pull string, then pull a bull rope. Amazon.com
If I'm reading him correctly, I think you toss the throwball over a branch at the height you want and let it drop to the ground. Then, you take the throwball off and tie the throwline to the rope. Pull the rope over the branch (close to the main stem of the tree) so you now have both ends of the rope on the ground.So you toss it over a branch in one direction, then go behind the tree and toss it back so that the rope goes around the tree? Assuming there's no crotch.
Thanks, I get that picture - makes sense.If I'm reading him correctly, I think you toss the throwball over a branch at the height you want and let it drop to the ground. Then, you take the throwball off and tie the throwline to the rope. Pull the rope over the branch (close to the main stem of the tree) so you now have both ends of the rope on the ground.
Once you have it where you want it for pulling, then tie a bowline knot in one end of the rope and put the other end through the bowline loop and pull the end of the rope so the bowline goes up the tree and the rope is now girthed around the trunk. Then, pull in the direction needed.
I've had one of these 23' Mr. LongArm telescoping painter poles for many years. Couple that with my 8' reach and I can hit over 30' from the ground. You can adapt many attachments to the painter pole threads. I used it for my Christmas tree in the yard for years, then bought a 16' ladder and worked off of that. Tree outgrew that, now I'm using fishing bow and arrow to shoot line over tree that's about 55'.There are several helpful YT videos on getting a line into a tree. I may be the worse bag thrower in the world so I try to place a line using an extendable boat hook where I can. Can't reach 30' up with a boat hook, however.
....
Here's another variation on this method. In this video, instead of pulling a bowline up into the tree to cinch it, August ties the pull rope around the base of the tree (secured with a running bowline).Thanks, I get that picture - makes sense.
aircraft cable is a stainless steel and 9X19 or 7 X 9 (9 bundles of 19 strands (very flexible used for anything that runs around pullies)) or 7 bundles of 9 strands thicker strands not very flexible, (not for controls) )isn't that covered metal ?
Ya, size always a trade off. When I borrowed this hydro kubota, was surprised how easily I could deadhead the drive while using this blade. Not sure this 4120 will be much different.That's a nice size, and it predates a lot of the diesel emissions stuff they have been loaded down with in more recent years. Is yours the hydrostatic transmission or the 12 speed "PowrReverser"?
If I knew then what I know now, I'd have been in that size range back when I was shopping in 2001. I was debating between a New Holland TC33D and a TC40D. I figured I really didn't "need" the larger frame size of the TC40D, so went with the smaller frame TC33D. Over the years, my uses have expanded significantly. I often find myself wishing for the larger size and higher lift capacity. (On the other hand, I'm also happy to be able to squeeze in to tighter places with my TC33D.)
Many people who are not used to an HST transmission try to use the HST pedal like a gas pedal. If they start to bog down they press the pedal harder, which is the exact opposite of what you want to do. Give it more throttle if needed, but let up on the HST pedal (in effect shifting to a "lower gear") or shift to a lower range (you can't really get a lot of work done in the highest of the 3 ranges - that's more of a "transport" gear.)Ya, size always a trade off. When I borrowed this hydro kubota, was surprised how easily I could deadhead the drive while using this blade. Not sure this 4120 will be much different.