Trailer advice

   / Trailer advice #21  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Where did you find the $100 deal )</font>

If I read his post correctly, he was talking about the sway control, and you can buy one for about that price almost anywhere. In fact, the one I used can be bought for even less at this site.

Of course, the hitch head and lift bars are a little more, but are also listed on the same web site.
 
   / Trailer advice #22  
<font color="blue">If I read his post correctly, he was talking about the sway control, and you can buy one for about that price almost anywhere. </font>

Yep - that's what I was talking about. Sorry if I wasn't clear - I got a Draw-Tite sway control (friction) but this place below sells one that looks just like it - just that it's a Reese.

Another Merchant
 
   / Trailer advice #23  
My own experience makes me think I wish mine would squat a little. I've hitched my F250 (w/HD and overload springs) to a 16' trailer with my L4610, FEL, and bush hog (yes, it did overhang in the rear /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif). I had almost no squat (it dropped about 1.5" at the axle), but I had the enough weight on the ball to make the front end too light to handle the truck confidently at highway speeds.

This F250 is a supercab long bed. I never would have thought I could lighten the front end that much (particularly in a 4x4 with a 460), but it did. Shifted the tractor back about a foot and things were much better. I must have had 1 to 2 tons sitting on the ball.

Live and learn, I guess. I now load by looking at the distance between the overload springs and the pad--about a half inch feels right when towing.

-Chris
 

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