Trailer assumptions

[Highbeam]

First thing

"2500 series or bigger is definitely the way to go for loads like you mention. Others may do it, but the 1500 does not have the weight and brakes."

Common misconception but not bad advice. My 1998 1500 truck has a higher tow rating than the 3/4 ton of the same year. Don't assume you need a 3/4 ton just because you haven't researched it. That being said, I would get a new 3/4 ton for the thicker steel and for a hefty margin of error in your favor with respect to most ratings. The new 3/4 ton trucks are far more capable ratingswise than those of 10 years ago. Plus if you want a diesel, 3/4 ton or bigger.

I purchased an 18', dovetail, 10k, bumperpull trailer from PJ Trailers. They have a website and I found this trailer to be perfect for my needs and dang sharp looking. The trailer weighs 2500#s empty and I pull it just fine with my 1/2 ton chevy and its 6500 lb tow rating. My load is about equivalent to what you describe with 4000 lbs of tractor plus one 600 lb implement. You bet, I'm into the 7000+ range but everything works great and is within ratings on each axle and tire, the DOT requirement in WA.

Highly recommend PJ Trailers. I paid 3100$. They make tilt too.

 

[HRS]

Good observation on the older trucks. I've a little knowledge on the performance of a particular Dodge 3/4 my brother has. It's a 1999. He was pulling a TC33 with loader on his 16' dual axle trailer down to the local gas station for a little diesel. The trailer did not have brakes, but then again with as light as a TC33 is you would think that any 3/4 ton could handle it. A little rain hit the pavement before he made it home and he was actually pushed through an intersection. Scared the **** out of him, so he dropped the axles on his trailer and installed some equiped with brakes. Now I've got a F150 rated at 6500 lbs. I've pulled a 2500lb dual axle spreader loaded down with 4000lbs of mix. The truck would stop the load on a dime. However, I didn't run into any ran that day. Nice and sunny. Considering these two experiences. I'd go with a 1 ton if/when I decide to replace.
Have a brother-n-law who has a 1ton gas Ford. Pulls heavy loads all over since he is a carpenter. Latest job is up in NC Says the truck pulls weight like that mentioned here up the mountains without any trouble at all. I'd check out that 1 ton before I dropped nearly the same money on a 3/4.

 

[Dozernut]

Here is a site that sells aluminum trailers. Lighter than steel and would allow a little more payload. I watched an episode of "Trucks" and was alerted to this company. They had a 20' trailer that they added a tool box and winch. Real nice set up, they were using it for a car hauler. Trailer

 

[Farmwithjunk]

It sounds like you.ve got a good handle on what you want and need. A little advice from someone who's bought "The Wrong Trailer" a few times in his life. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Buy LONGER than you anticipate needing. That allows you to position the load forward or rearward as needed to get the right ammount of weight on the truck axle(s) or trailer axles. If your trailer deck is just a foot or two longer than you absolutely have to have, you're limited as to how you position the load. If you have an extra 3 or 4 feet, that gives you more flexability when spotting the load.

All the "majors" sell trucks with trailer towing packages nowdays. That is an essential. Heavier duty cooloing systems, coolers on the tranny, and even engine oil coolers. Heavier brakes, and pre-wired brake/light harness. Most even have mirrors made to swing out wider for better view when hauling a wider load.

My final tidbit of info is TIRES. Make certain your truck AND trailer have sufficient rated tires for the load you're carrying. I've seen many a trailer rated for say, 14,000, that carry tires that limit the GVWR to under 10,000. And that's the weak link that the vehicle enforcement officer will write the ticket on.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

<font color="blue"> ...does anyone have any specific hitch recommendations? </font>

Gooseneck all the way!

I've never pulled anything with a fifth wheel, but between a bumper pull and a gooseneck for heavy loads, I love the gooseneck. It's easier to maneuver, it rides better, and it's even easier to hitch (you can see the ball in your mirror as you back under the hitch).

I hauled livestock back when I was in college. There were times I'd have to back from a busy city street down a lane and make a full 180 degree turn to hit the unloading ramp. I never could have done it with a bumper pull. (someone better than me might have, but I couldn't)

The one big disadvantage with a gooseneck (or fifth wheel) is that it takes up the bed of your truck.

 

[Scrounger]

Sounds like you could get away with a 7700# trailer that is long enough for your load. However, I always agree with the bigger is better philosphy. I use a 7700# tamdem to haul a BX2230 with FEL and BH on it. Its well within its limits of the trailer and I have a greater level of confidence in the load.

 

[Scrounger]

Check out Hitch-Rite at www.hammerlock.com These are some of the best hitches that we've ever seen at off-road.com. These are seriously high quality hitches.

 

[Av8r3400]

Ford makes them already, F650 and up. Cummins (optional), Allison tranny and Ford cab.

There are a bunch of conversion packages to make them as fancy as you want, too. ($60,000 ++ though!)

 

[KAB]

SO Does GM... TopKick 6500 and up.

Same Price Range.

Kurt

 

[RedRocker]

Just a tad out of my price range. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif