Trailer assumptions

[Highbeam]

For hitch recommendations. I prefer bumper pull so that I can use my bed. The expense of the gooseneck is pretty high too. Oddly, I have had more than a couple people tell me that backing up a fifth wheel (pretty much the asme as gooseneck) any long distance is a big pain in the butt. For cheapness, ability to swap trucks, ability to use your bed, and resale, I would go bumper pull.

Then get a WD hitch rated for the load. Mine is made by Robin Manufacturing but is equivalent to a Reese or Drawtite. It is just the WD bars to transfer weight to both axles of the truck. This way when you hit a bump the whole truck settles down rather than your headlights aiming for the sky.

 

[Tower3]

I went ahead and got a Silverado 2500 HD Diesel. It came with Chevy's "HD Trailering Package." The hitch receiver (or "platform" as Chevy calls it) is rated for 7500 lbs. weight carrying or 12,000 weight distributing. Am I correct in assuming I can mate a weight distributing hitch kit - like Draw-Tite's trunnion bar, for instance - with my factory receiver?

Also, the weight distributing hitch kits often come in different models for different tongue weights. Do they need to closely match the actual tongue weight, or would a 1200 lb. tongue weight model be OK with a much lighter actual tongue weight? I assume it must be, for the times when you tow the trailer empty.

 

[BadDog]

You don't need the hitch kit with the 2500HD towing package (Z82 option) unless your trailer weight is over 7,500-lbs.

You can safely go up to 12,000 lbs of trailer weight if you use a hitch kit.

Any quality branded hitch kit should plug into the factory receiver without any trouble.

You want your trailer tongue weight to be 10 to 15 percent of total loaded trailer weight (up to 1,500 lbs.)

 

[Highbeam]

I disagree. The hitch/platform ratings are maximum for the hitch, not necessarily the same as the truck. For example my GM hitch is rated for 10,000 lbs towing weight with a WD hitch but the truck is rated for 6500 lbs. You've got a high rated hitch, that's good but that's only one rating. Then there's the axles, tires, GVWR, and GCWR to worry about.

The GM hitch will be very capable of accomodating a WD hitch system like the trunnion bar system you mention. The rating of the spring bars is a maximum so if you intend to load a trailer with 1000 lbs of tongue weight or less then get the 1000 lb bars. That's what I use. When I tow the trailer empty I just loosen up the tension on the bars or I can remove them and run the hitch head without the bars. You can always replace the bars to change the rating of the spring bars and keep the hitch head as that part is the same for all spring bars.

The WD bars will provide a much better ride while towing. The trailer and both truck axles will ride together rather than like a teeter totter over your rear axle. Porpoising is reduced also. But most of all your front end won't be lightened.

For example, my 2500 lb empty trailer put 250 lbs(10%) on the tongue. I weighed it without WD. My truck's rear axle weight went up 350 lbs but the truck's front axle actually got lighter by 100 lbs, hence the 250. Taken to the extreme and considering a bump in the road the front end will become so light that steering is effected and front axle braking is reduced to the point of sliding through turns. You want weight distribution for several reasons but the biggest is to keep both ends of your truck firmly planted on the road heading in the direction of your choice.

Your manual may even require it after a certain amount of tongue weight.

Congratualtions on the truck.

 

[KAB]

For '05 - '06 Weight Carrying hitch on the 2500HD and 3500HD's are Rated for 7500#. Prior years can vary.

But, I would probably still use a WD hitch to help keep sway to a minimum. (even a properly loaded trailer can sway in the right environment. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif)

Kurt