Trailer assumptions

[Highbeam]

First thing

"2500 series or bigger is definitely the way to go for loads like you mention. Others may do it, but the 1500 does not have the weight and brakes."

Common misconception but not bad advice. My 1998 1500 truck has a higher tow rating than the 3/4 ton of the same year. Don't assume you need a 3/4 ton just because you haven't researched it. That being said, I would get a new 3/4 ton for the thicker steel and for a hefty margin of error in your favor with respect to most ratings. The new 3/4 ton trucks are far more capable ratingswise than those of 10 years ago. Plus if you want a diesel, 3/4 ton or bigger.

I purchased an 18', dovetail, 10k, bumperpull trailer from PJ Trailers. They have a website and I found this trailer to be perfect for my needs and dang sharp looking. The trailer weighs 2500#s empty and I pull it just fine with my 1/2 ton chevy and its 6500 lb tow rating. My load is about equivalent to what you describe with 4000 lbs of tractor plus one 600 lb implement. You bet, I'm into the 7000+ range but everything works great and is within ratings on each axle and tire, the DOT requirement in WA.

Highly recommend PJ Trailers. I paid 3100$. They make tilt too.

 

[HRS]

Good observation on the older trucks. I've a little knowledge on the performance of a particular Dodge 3/4 my brother has. It's a 1999. He was pulling a TC33 with loader on his 16' dual axle trailer down to the local gas station for a little diesel. The trailer did not have brakes, but then again with as light as a TC33 is you would think that any 3/4 ton could handle it. A little rain hit the pavement before he made it home and he was actually pushed through an intersection. Scared the **** out of him, so he dropped the axles on his trailer and installed some equiped with brakes. Now I've got a F150 rated at 6500 lbs. I've pulled a 2500lb dual axle spreader loaded down with 4000lbs of mix. The truck would stop the load on a dime. However, I didn't run into any ran that day. Nice and sunny. Considering these two experiences. I'd go with a 1 ton if/when I decide to replace.
Have a brother-n-law who has a 1ton gas Ford. Pulls heavy loads all over since he is a carpenter. Latest job is up in NC Says the truck pulls weight like that mentioned here up the mountains without any trouble at all. I'd check out that 1 ton before I dropped nearly the same money on a 3/4.

 

[Dozernut]

Here is a site that sells aluminum trailers. Lighter than steel and would allow a little more payload. I watched an episode of "Trucks" and was alerted to this company. They had a 20' trailer that they added a tool box and winch. Real nice set up, they were using it for a car hauler. Trailer

 

[Farmwithjunk]

It sounds like you.ve got a good handle on what you want and need. A little advice from someone who's bought "The Wrong Trailer" a few times in his life. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Buy LONGER than you anticipate needing. That allows you to position the load forward or rearward as needed to get the right ammount of weight on the truck axle(s) or trailer axles. If your trailer deck is just a foot or two longer than you absolutely have to have, you're limited as to how you position the load. If you have an extra 3 or 4 feet, that gives you more flexability when spotting the load.

All the "majors" sell trucks with trailer towing packages nowdays. That is an essential. Heavier duty cooloing systems, coolers on the tranny, and even engine oil coolers. Heavier brakes, and pre-wired brake/light harness. Most even have mirrors made to swing out wider for better view when hauling a wider load.

My final tidbit of info is TIRES. Make certain your truck AND trailer have sufficient rated tires for the load you're carrying. I've seen many a trailer rated for say, 14,000, that carry tires that limit the GVWR to under 10,000. And that's the weak link that the vehicle enforcement officer will write the ticket on.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

<font color="blue"> ...does anyone have any specific hitch recommendations? </font>

Gooseneck all the way!

I've never pulled anything with a fifth wheel, but between a bumper pull and a gooseneck for heavy loads, I love the gooseneck. It's easier to maneuver, it rides better, and it's even easier to hitch (you can see the ball in your mirror as you back under the hitch).

I hauled livestock back when I was in college. There were times I'd have to back from a busy city street down a lane and make a full 180 degree turn to hit the unloading ramp. I never could have done it with a bumper pull. (someone better than me might have, but I couldn't)

The one big disadvantage with a gooseneck (or fifth wheel) is that it takes up the bed of your truck.

 

[Scrounger]

Sounds like you could get away with a 7700# trailer that is long enough for your load. However, I always agree with the bigger is better philosphy. I use a 7700# tamdem to haul a BX2230 with FEL and BH on it. Its well within its limits of the trailer and I have a greater level of confidence in the load.

 

[Scrounger]

Check out Hitch-Rite at www.hammerlock.com These are some of the best hitches that we've ever seen at off-road.com. These are seriously high quality hitches.

 

[Av8r3400]

Ford makes them already, F650 and up. Cummins (optional), Allison tranny and Ford cab.

There are a bunch of conversion packages to make them as fancy as you want, too. ($60,000 ++ though!)

 

[KAB]

SO Does GM... TopKick 6500 and up.

Same Price Range.

Kurt

 

[RedRocker]

Just a tad out of my price range. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Highbeam]

For hitch recommendations. I prefer bumper pull so that I can use my bed. The expense of the gooseneck is pretty high too. Oddly, I have had more than a couple people tell me that backing up a fifth wheel (pretty much the asme as gooseneck) any long distance is a big pain in the butt. For cheapness, ability to swap trucks, ability to use your bed, and resale, I would go bumper pull.

Then get a WD hitch rated for the load. Mine is made by Robin Manufacturing but is equivalent to a Reese or Drawtite. It is just the WD bars to transfer weight to both axles of the truck. This way when you hit a bump the whole truck settles down rather than your headlights aiming for the sky.

 

[Tower3]

I went ahead and got a Silverado 2500 HD Diesel. It came with Chevy's "HD Trailering Package." The hitch receiver (or "platform" as Chevy calls it) is rated for 7500 lbs. weight carrying or 12,000 weight distributing. Am I correct in assuming I can mate a weight distributing hitch kit - like Draw-Tite's trunnion bar, for instance - with my factory receiver?

Also, the weight distributing hitch kits often come in different models for different tongue weights. Do they need to closely match the actual tongue weight, or would a 1200 lb. tongue weight model be OK with a much lighter actual tongue weight? I assume it must be, for the times when you tow the trailer empty.

 

[BadDog]

You don't need the hitch kit with the 2500HD towing package (Z82 option) unless your trailer weight is over 7,500-lbs.

You can safely go up to 12,000 lbs of trailer weight if you use a hitch kit.

Any quality branded hitch kit should plug into the factory receiver without any trouble.

You want your trailer tongue weight to be 10 to 15 percent of total loaded trailer weight (up to 1,500 lbs.)

 

[Highbeam]

I disagree. The hitch/platform ratings are maximum for the hitch, not necessarily the same as the truck. For example my GM hitch is rated for 10,000 lbs towing weight with a WD hitch but the truck is rated for 6500 lbs. You've got a high rated hitch, that's good but that's only one rating. Then there's the axles, tires, GVWR, and GCWR to worry about.

The GM hitch will be very capable of accomodating a WD hitch system like the trunnion bar system you mention. The rating of the spring bars is a maximum so if you intend to load a trailer with 1000 lbs of tongue weight or less then get the 1000 lb bars. That's what I use. When I tow the trailer empty I just loosen up the tension on the bars or I can remove them and run the hitch head without the bars. You can always replace the bars to change the rating of the spring bars and keep the hitch head as that part is the same for all spring bars.

The WD bars will provide a much better ride while towing. The trailer and both truck axles will ride together rather than like a teeter totter over your rear axle. Porpoising is reduced also. But most of all your front end won't be lightened.

For example, my 2500 lb empty trailer put 250 lbs(10%) on the tongue. I weighed it without WD. My truck's rear axle weight went up 350 lbs but the truck's front axle actually got lighter by 100 lbs, hence the 250. Taken to the extreme and considering a bump in the road the front end will become so light that steering is effected and front axle braking is reduced to the point of sliding through turns. You want weight distribution for several reasons but the biggest is to keep both ends of your truck firmly planted on the road heading in the direction of your choice.

Your manual may even require it after a certain amount of tongue weight.

Congratualtions on the truck.

 

[KAB]

For '05 - '06 Weight Carrying hitch on the 2500HD and 3500HD's are Rated for 7500#. Prior years can vary.

But, I would probably still use a WD hitch to help keep sway to a minimum. (even a properly loaded trailer can sway in the right environment. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif)

Kurt