Trailer got stolen, so decided to build one

[bdog]

The main frame looks stout but those crossmembers are too weak. They will bend especially laying flat like that. Gussets won't help it isn't the weld that is the problem they are laying flat on the frame with very little stress on the weld. The problem is the material is too small to span that distance.

 

[Deere Dude]

The fix sounds easy enough after looking at my PJ trailer. If it was me I would get some 3" channel iron and weld them directly beneath the tubing in question.

The overhang on each side should have a channel or square tubing supporting that on a 45 deg. angle to the lower frame member. This would also help with strength for when you chain something down. I didn't reread all these posts and maybe you have something all figured out already. In either case, it looks like a very nice project. I wish I had a trailer that size.

 

[jenkinsph]

The main frame looks stout but those crossmembers are too weak. They will bend especially laying flat like that. Gussets won't help it isn't the weld that is the problem they are laying flat on the frame with very little stress on the weld. The problem is the material is too small to span that distance.

What he said ^^^^.
I did criticize this build but feel this is necessary sometimes. If you are going to build a trailer it needs to meet some design criteria if used on public roads. I am all for DIY projects but feel that this cross member issue does need to be resolved properly. A suggestion would be to COPY others such as Big Tex and PJ to name two manufacturers who have already figured this out.

 

[Renze]

The fix sounds easy enough after looking at my PJ trailer. If it was me I would get some 3" channel iron and weld them directly beneath the tubing in question.

Thats a very good idea as well. The flat laying tube will form the upper flange, and the angle iron the vertical and the lower flange of what together acts as a C channel

 

[sldva00]

Out of curiosity, why did you build your trailer with two different sizes of tubing for the cross members? That's just going to pose a problem when I comes to laying the decking on.

The deck will be made of steel and lumber. I used different sizes to compensate for the thickness of the lumber (1.5"). It looks fairly level when transitioning from one to the other. I'm still going to add plenty of weld to the front section where I elevated the plate with 1/4" strips.

 

[sldva00]

The main frame looks stout but those crossmembers are too weak. They will bend especially laying flat like that. Gussets won't help it isn't the weld that is the problem they are laying flat on the frame with very little stress on the weld. The problem is the material is too small to span that distance.

The fix sounds easy enough after looking at my PJ trailer. If it was me I would get some 3" channel iron and weld them directly beneath the tubing in question.

The overhang on each side should have a channel or square tubing supporting that on a 45 deg. angle to the lower frame member. This would also help with strength for when you chain something down. I didn't reread all these posts and maybe you have something all figured out already. In either case, it looks like a very nice project. I wish I had a trailer that size.

What he said ^^^^.
I did criticize this build but feel this is necessary sometimes. If you are going to build a trailer it needs to meet some design criteria if used on public roads. I am all for DIY projects but feel that this cross member issue does need to be resolved properly. A suggestion would be to COPY others such as Big Tex and PJ to name two manufacturers who have already figured this out.

Thats a very good idea as well. The flat laying tube will form the upper flange, and the angle iron the vertical and the lower flange of what together acts as a C channel

I Thank All of You that criticized and stated the obvious. I did something very similar to Renze's modification of the trailer he did. I used 2 1/2" x 1/4" square tube to go length wise in the middle of the crossmembers. At the halfway mark, I added a 2" x 1/4" square tube under the side rails with gussets all around it. Then I added a triangular brace up to the 2 1/2" beam. It came out strong and I can definitely notice the difference afterwards.

 

[sikmusicfreak8]

That looks good. I started my trailer build off of a toy hauler frame, and its worked great for me, gets a lot of use! Added a winch, deck lights, etc.

Nice work bud!

 

[sikmusicfreak8]

If you don't mind me asking, what do you have into your trailer? I think I bought the trailer for $1500, and after a winch, lumber, steel, and lights, I have less than $2800 into the whole thing now.

 

[sldva00]

If you don't mind me asking, what do you have into your trailer? I think I bought the trailer for $1500, and after a winch, lumber, steel, and lights, I have less than $2800 into the whole thing now.

$3,900 so far by my numbers. According to my wife, it's closer to $4,100. She includes the lunches I have to buy, the fuel costs of all my fill-ups during the build. Took a trip to Corpus to get the axles and tires. The steel yard is about an 1hr drive. Building at my cousin's place, which is about 20 minutes away.

 

[sldva00]

That looks good. I started my trailer build off of a toy hauler frame, and its worked great for me, gets a lot of use! Added a winch, deck lights, etc.

Nice work bud!

View attachment 476244View attachment 476245View attachment 476246View attachment 476248

Thanks. Coming from someone I can see knows what he's doing, it does make me feel good. You've done great work on your trailer.

Plan B for my trailer was something similar to yours, where the deck wraps around the fenders. If I couldn't get my truck to hook up to the high trailer design, I was going to lower it to look like yours. I wanted a high trailer to eliminate a lot of trucks that can tow my trailer away. I do realize that if someone wants it, they will find a way and take it. This just makes it harder to do so.