Henro,
I just finished trailer shopping and have one now.
I'll share my top recommendations.
1. Wherever you get it, make sure you get a title- PERIOD. Being also in PA, don't accept one without or you will have titling hassles and have to apply for a reconstructed title (4-8 weeks, pictures, etc).
2. Make sure it is legal in PA for that length. Extra lights at front corners, breakaway, brakes on all axles (I was told each was required, but definitely a good idea).
3. Tongue mounted, TAPERED, locking toolbox. If not tapered, turning clearance will be compromised. TSC for around $50 if I recall. One key in towing vehicle, one at home in the garage, just in case /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
4. This is a biggie. I went to TSC and bought two side crank trailer jacks on pivots (you know, pull the spring loaded pin and flip them up) and welded one on each side between the rear wheel and fold up ramps. We flip these down and crank them a few cranks to prevent trailer tilt and excessive wear on your trailer ball lock from loading and unloading. I should take some pictures and post them. Maybe tomorrow.
5. Buy a combination lock for the hitch. I bought one at Lowes with the right size "U" for the holes in the hitch. This will keep your trailer attached (read: not stolen when parked somewhere), and also lock it in place when the trailer is detached. This prevents anyone from backing into it and driving away with it- the ball won't seat /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Of course, someone can just cut it with bolt cutters, but that's a little obvious in the Walmart parking lot /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
6. I bought one of the Lowe's $0.96 brightly colored spring loaded snaps for connecting the breakaway cable to the vehicle hitch. Not sure what they are called, but looks like a light version of what rock climbers use for attaching onto their ropes. Smaller on one end with about a 1.5-2" springloaded "hinge" Somebody help me out here with the name /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
7. We found a trailer with SPLIT rear loading gates. Split is much easier to lift. Each has full box channel bracing and wire mesh on it.
8. Make sure you get REMOVABLE pins for the rear gates/loading ramps. If your tralier is x feet long and you want to hall > x feet items, you can remove one or both easily and put it on the trailer.
9. Replace all snap pins with the spring loaded snap ring pins like on your 3ph. Again, not sure of the name- it's late /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
10. Between the split rear gates is a large pin that connects both when stowed in the upright position. This vibrates a lot. We cut about 2" of old rubber hose and put on this pin to act as a spacer to tighten this connection and cushion the vibration as well.
11. "Over the wheel" tie downs for hauling tractors. Wouldn't be without them. Also works great for hauling motors. Set the motor on an old tire on an old pallet and put the tie down over the motor. Holds it down and wraps around at the same time. I think around $20- $30 ea.
12. In your toolbox: Gloves, yes that is plural. Wheel chocks, you know why /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif, extra tie downs, bungees, ratcheting straps, twine or rope
And one other general tip. When hooking your safety chains to your hitch, wrap them together to take up slack so they don't drag on the road, and always hook them UP through the slots so the open part of the "s" is facing upwards. They will NEVER bounce out this way, as the weight of the chain will always hold them in. This is opposite of standard "j" or "c" hooks on chains, which are always connected with open end down.
Oh, and don't forget to put the rear stabilizer jacks back up before pulling away /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif (It was a good test for the welds, though /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )
Good luck, hope this gives you some things to think about. This is a long post, but gotta take care of our own up here in Penn's Woods /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
-JC
