Trailer recommendation

[cgraham]

Can anyone recommend a trailer for a BL1941 with backhoe?

I don't have the exact dimension, but I figured the tractor would fit on a 16' trailer with the front bucket resting on the front rail of the trailer.

I really don't want to spend a lot on the trailer - the main need is a 1300 mi drive to pick the new machine up. I can rent cheaply, but I'd rather put that money into a trailer if I can find one quickly enough. The best I have seen so far is $1700 for an 18' with brakes, rated at 3500 lb/axle - more than I want to spend - (the tractor weighs about 6000 lb.) Certainly brakes and 3500 lb axles are necessary.

If I had to take the tractor for service, it's a 140 mi round trip, so a trailer would be handy - but I hope not to make that trip often.

However, I have to rebuild my driveway and a flatbed would be useful for that. As it's a long term job, renting would not work. I have a pick-up bed trailer, but I think getting dirt out of it would be difficult, because of the wheel wells. The 2' back hoe might do the job if I could improvise a device to cover the teeth. Likely someone has solved this problem already.

It might be best to swallow the rental fee and look around for a used one later.

My route is S New Mexico, Armarillo TX, then I 40 to Clarksville AR.

Comments?

Maybe I should post this query on a general forum?

 

[Bird]

The best I have seen so far is $1700 for an 18' with brakes, rated at 3500 lb/axle - more than I want to spend - (the tractor weighs about 6000 lb.) Certainly brakes and 3500 lb axles are necessary.

It sounds to me like, even at that, you're talking about the absolute minimum trailer you could use. I would expect the trailer itself to weigh a thousand or more, so you'd probably be a little over its gross weight rating.

 

[InlineDieselFan]

As Bird said, if the tractor is 6,000 I am sure the trailer weighs 1,500 at least.

Since you need to rebuild your driveway, buying would be a good thing. If the driveway is gravel a dump trailer would be real nice. But a lot more $$$$.

I have a flatbed trailer, that I put sides on and load it up with gravel, I then drive up on it and drag the bucket back to unload the gravel. Not as nice as a dump trailer but it works and it is all I have.

Gravel is heavy, please look at a heavier trailer especially for as long of drives as you have, in the heat. Standed on the side of the road is not good.

Do you have your tie downs yets? If not do you know where to buy them in Arkansas, or buy before you get there. I would hate to spend time trying to 'make something work' with what is available at that moment.

steve

 

[cgraham]

Thanks for the comments. After posting I realized that I had not considered capacity issues adequately. I think you are right, trailers are commonly rated at 3500 lb per axle, putting the load over the limit, as I agree the trailer would weigh over 1000 lb - I have been told 2000 lb by a couple of dealers.

In addition, I was planning to tow with a Ford Bronco - 380 engine. I have not been able to find its' tow capacity yet. (Not on vehicle, in manual, & so far not on net - still looking.) But I am concerned it is insufficient.

I didn't mention that my driveway is 1/2 mi. long. I don't mind using an underrated trailer on it, I just wont overload it. I'll have a contractor haul in the topping after I rebuild the base.I don't think buying a heavier trailer and truck to haul it is in the cards. I barely afforded the tractor. I just want to use it "around the place" so maybe having it shipped is best.


InlineDieselFan, please educate me about tie downs: I was planning to use 1 1/4" chain and load tighteners. Not the best way?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Thanks for the comments. After posting I realized that I had not considered capacity issues adequately. I think you are right, trailers are commonly rated at 3500 lb per axle, putting the load over the limit, as I agree the trailer would weigh over 1000 lb - I have been told 2000 lb by a couple of dealers.

In addition, I was planning to tow with a Ford Bronco - 380 engine. I have not been able to find its' tow capacity yet. (Not on vehicle, in manual, & so far not on net - still looking.) But I am concerned it is insufficient.

If it is a "full size" Bronco, then I'm pretty sure those max out at a 7800# towing capacity.

I think your pushing your luck with a 7000# trailer, my 14' trailer weighs about 1600# and is very heavily built, so I figure your 18' trailer will weigh in between 1500# and closer to 2000# is not unreasonable. You have a 6000# load, so you are right at the maxiumum of your truck and over the maximum of 7000# trailer. You need a light weight 8000# trailer if you can find one. It might be easier to find a 10,000# trailer, but those are usually built heavier so you'd be at 2000# for the trailer for sure.

I would really like to offer you a friendly bit of advice and suggest that you make sure the brakes on your truck are checked out BEFORE you attempt such a trip.

Another thought would be to have the tractor shipped to you, it would like cost far less than the cost of a trailer. I've shipped cars 1/2 way across the country for under $1000.

 

[George2615]

If your tractor weighs 6000#, a 7K trailer would be overloaded. Unless its aluminum a 7K steel trailer is going to weigh about 2000# which limits you to a 5K load max. If you go with a higher rated trailer of course the weight of it is higher too. I don't think your bronco is rated to haul 8000# (trailer & tractor) safely down the road. Do you have any friends with a 3/4 ton truck and a 10K trailer who could haul it for you or loan you their set up for a day?

 

[Dodgeram]

I find myself at a place I normally do not go: I agree with Bob. (Man that's painful)
Have the tractor shipped. If you purchase a trailer and are overweight, the trip will not only be dangerous, but will be tiresome.
You will also have the added expense of trailer insurance and extra fuel.
Avoid the headaches and contract the transportation out.
Whatever you decide, keep us up to date, and be safe.
Tom

 

[VictorW]

I agree with the others that a 7000# trailer would be overloaded or definately at it's maximum which doesn't put you on the comfortable side with that long of a trip. Even if only 1,300 miles once, a lot can go wrong if you push the trailer to it's max. I always like to have a safety cushion. I think a 10k trailer is probably the next step and something you should consider. Of course the cost goes up.
I've never heard of a 380 in a Bronco unless it was an engine swap. Either way, the Bronco is a little light for what you want to do. If it was only a few miles, you could go slow and probably get away with it. A friend lent his trailer to a person who wanted to haul a car he bought. The trailer was heavy enough but not the tow vehicle. Needless to say, everything ended up in the junk yard after the wreck.
Like Dogeram, oh the pain, I have to agree with Bob. If you're going to spend money, might as well have something like a trailer but as suggested, having it shipped might be the better and safer way to go. I pushed the limits with a tow vehicle once and I kissed the ground after I arrived home.
Good luck with your decision.

 

[InlineDieselFan]

cgraham,

for your tie downs, what do you mean by 1 1/4 inch chain and load tightners?

the way I know of people measuring chain is the diameter of of one side of one link. Usually 3/8ths or 5/16th's.

Too me 1 1/4 inch chain would be a really nice yacht anchor chain.

If you do a search you will see many aurguemnets overthe best way to tie a tractor. I like 3/8ths grade 70 chain, 4 ratcheting binders (one on each corner) Then I'll even throw on a 5/16ths chain with a knuckle buster tie down on an implement.

steve

 

[Birdhunter1]

Minimum I would use to pull a 6000 lbs. TLB is a 10K tandem axle trailer and a 3/4 ton truck. A Bronco isn't rated to pull that much weight, even if you beef up the suspension and put a bigger engine in the fact that it is a short vehicle it won't carry a load well and the front tires will be aweful light, when you go to stop your front wheels will skid. Most likely going down the road that rig will buck like crazy with every small bump.

16' is too short for the setup you're wanting, with 16' you're very limited on where you can load your tractor on the trailer, with an 18' you'll have some wiggle room. Gooseneck would be ideal but not neccessary, you could do well with an 18' bumper pull on a 3/4 ton truck.

Dump trailers are nice but to get one 18' long you'll have a big trailer that is expensive and HEAVY, a 3/4 ton will have a tough time with a trailer that big. If you do go this route get a gooseneck.

 

[cgraham]

Thank you, a lot of good points.

My mistake, it's a 351 cu" V8 engine in a fullsize Bronco. The hitch is welded to the frame and a custom heavy-duty bumper. Aftermarket tranny cooler and guage. Modern break controller.

My dealer and I went over the weights this afternoon and it appears the tractor, backhoe and loader weigh 5000#, not 6000#. That improves the tow capaciy and 18' trailer with 3500# axles to marginal, depending on the actual trailer weight. Marginal is not good.

I frequently tow a 19' camper (about 6000# loaded, I guess), without trouble, with the Bronco, but the load distributing hitch and swaybar are essential: I will not have the beneft of these with a tractor trailer. As pointed out, the load can be balanced by positioning the tractor on an 18' trailer, so it's mostly the swaybar I'll miss. I expect I'd be driving pretty slow on I 40.

If I did drive, quite right I need to have the truck brakes checked - thanks for the reminder, Bob.

I am persuaded that I am going to have to look into having the trailer delivered. It's more expensive, but appears to be worth it. I can't afford a heavier duty trailer and truck to tow it for the 640 mi 1-way loaded journey. It's a pity to loose the tow savings, but better to preserve an intact truck, load & body.

I found several threads on tie-down methods, and I now know more about chain ratings, etc (I MEANT 5/16", InlineDieselFan). It seems there about as many ways of securing the load as there are posters. Clearly, some are superior. Anyway, that may be irrelevant for delivery.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again for the cautions; I have learned a lot about towing in the last 2 days!

C

 

[bluechip]

LB1914 2132lbs with ag tires, industrials might be a little heavier.
KL1210 loader 710lbs
KB2365 backhoe 785lbs
backhoe bucket and foot pads est. 100lbs
Foam fill tires 800-900lbs
sunshade 75lbs
estimated load is 4600-4700lbs, in any case, comfortably under my earlier estimate of 5000lbs. (I always try to err ot the good).

This load will be easier to pull than the camping trailer, much less wind resistance and lower center of gravity on the trailer.

The tractor will fit on 16', 7000lb trailer which is the lowest cost and easiest to find, albeit minimum for the job. 18' would give more room for load placement to adjust tounge weight. a 10,000 lb trailer would add significantly to the cost, isnt really needed and would most likely require a 3/4 ton tow vehicle.

 

[TomKioti]

Bluechip,

You are correct. I was starting to wonder why folks were saying the 7k trailer was not enough. Not a whole lot left over but certainly within the margins.
Just my 2 cents.

Happy Trailoring Cgraham and good luck!

 

[cgraham]

Hummmm, Buechip. Interesting figures. Thank you. I looked up the weights that I could, and you are on the money. I did not mention I will get a blade also which will be 277#, because I only decided yesterday. It brings us back to 5000#. I could undecide and get the blade locally for $100 more, but 277# should not be a deal killer.

How many stop for the weigh station guys in NM, TX, OH and AR?. In my travels most say "commercial vehicles", but I have seen "ALL trailers" -I remember going through one - somewhere. (Maybe this is OT enough to deserve a seperate thread.)

I do have an adjustable height towbar, which could help reduce tongue weight if too great with a 16' trailer.

I'll be interested to see the comments on your post, Bluechip.

 

[cgraham]

I just started a new thread in this subforum seeking to compile weigh station data frm the 50 States.

Weigh Station Procedures by State.

The operators probably have a computer to figure out if you'r legal, while we have to figure out how to figure out the answer.

C

 

[George2615]

Cgraham,
Now that you checked with the dealer and your load is closer to 5K, a 7K trailer will do the job but you'll probably be at trailer max. load cap. Since you have hauled a camper with W/D hitch you can move the W/D hitch brackets or buy another set of brackets for the trailer you get to haul the tractor with.

 

[Highbeam]

Let me try and hit some points:

"I frequently tow a 19' camper (about 6000# loaded, I guess), without trouble, with the Bronco, but the load distributing hitch and swaybar are essential: I will not have the beneft of these with a tractor trailer."

You can and absolutely should use a WD hitch with a car trailer. I use a WD system with mine that came right from the RV dealer. With the short wheel base bronco it is especially important to set up the trailer correctly including tongue weight and WD.

"This load will be easier to pull than the camping trailer, much less wind resistance and lower center of gravity on the trailer."

Agreed. My 7000 lb equipment trailer tows MUCH better and easier than a 6000 lb RV. Tracks better too. Trouble is you can't run back to the camper to use the facilities while on the road.

"a 10,000 lb trailer would add significantly to the cost, isnt really needed and would most likely require a 3/4 ton tow vehicle."

Nothing about a trailer rating changes the truck required to pull it. The weight to which you load that trailer is what would push you to a larger truck. I am very happy with how my half ton truck, 350 ci engine, tows a 10k rated trailer loaded to 7000lb. The trailer weighs more empty though so the same tractor will make for a heavier trailer weight. My 10k trailer weighs 2500 and cost a reasonable amount more than a 7000k version.

"I do have an adjustable height towbar, which could help reduce tongue weight"

Nope, set the ball height such that the trailer deck is level. Raising or lowering the ball doesn't remove tongue weight it only makes for a less stable tow.

You will find that the 10k rated trailer is built much more stoutly, really in a different league than the economy 7k car haulers. The tires are heavier duty, more lug nuts, bigger bearings, bigger brakes, etc. which are needed for 10k will be oversized (read safer) when only loading the trailer to 7000.

I like adventure type drives such as you're considering. Consider the road trip to be an all expenses paid vacation.

 

[cgraham]

Highbeam, good points and summary. I agree a load distributing hitch is essential: getting one installed in this neck of the woods may be difficult but I'll be looking as I happpen to be in Albuquerque for a couple of days.

I'm afraid the 10K # trailer would push the package weight to the Bronco limit, generally agreed to be something under 8000#. While I said I could pull a 6000# camper without trouble, I ws referring to stability - however it approaches the tow load limit in my experience.

10000# is also beyond my pocket book limit. I really only need a HD trailer for the delivery trip: for short trips thereafter, I could get by with a 7500#. I'd probably go with 7000# and drive slower.


"I like adventure type drives such as you're considering."

A white knuckle adventure, I expect. And a LONG drive, probably very slow on the return run. But it WILL be "interesting". As in the Chinese proverb: "May you live in interesting times"

I don't mean to sound negative, but the price of the equipment keeps creeping upward with each additional necessity to where a tow will be uneconomical. On the bright side, I know a lot more about what constitutes a safe rig

Charlie

 

[MossRoad]

I don't mean to sound negative, but the price of the equipment keeps creeping upward with each additional necessity to where a tow will be uneconomical. On the bright side, I know a lot more about what constitutes a safe rig

Charlie

Have you also figured in the cost of gas, a hotel or two, some cheap meals and the pennies per mile that it costs you to operate your Bronco? For instance, since I've been married I've occasionally taken a look at how many cents per mile it actually costs us to own a vehicle. It varies from a low of zero cents per mile (free car that required no repairs or maintenance) to 38 cents a mile for a very expensive truck(purchase price + maintenance costs + repairs + insurance - resale cost / miles driven = cost to own per mile).

At 10 cents per mile that 2600 mile round trip will cost you an addtional $260.00.

At 25 cents per mile that 2600 mile round trip will be an additional $650 dollars.

At 38 cents a mile, it will be closer to $1000.00.

Granted, all that is paid out over the life of the vehicle, so most people can afford it. But it is a real cost out of your pocket that most folks don't even think about. Every penny out of your pocket over your life is less money in your pocket towards the end of it. Which brings up my closing quote. I don't know who said it, but here it is anyway:

You can't take it with you but it is nice to at least have enough to get there.

 

[Bird]

I've occasionally taken a look at how many cents per mile it actually costs us to own a vehicle

Having been a fleet manager and playing with this computer and spreadsheets, I've been doing that for years. And if anything, David, your figures are quite conservative. Most people would be lucky to get their actual total costs that low.