Trailer Towing question

[RobS]

<font color=blue>Titan Class V</font color=blue>

Kick a$$ hitch! Same one I've got. It's rock solid for sure. So you had it installed? Good choice. I did mine myself several years ago. Had to drill eight holes through the frame flanges, all overhead. I can't tell you how many words I added to my vocabulary that night with all the hot metal shavings falling down on me /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

And yes, you'll be best off finding the brake controller at a trailer store /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Jeff396]

That helps. I was cruising the web last night and after reading many message boards came to the conclusion that the Tekonsha Prodigy was the brake controller of choice too. It's true it costs about twice as much as others but every time I cheap out I tend to get burned in the long run. Besides, my wife seems to have this thing about renting a travel trailer in the future so I might just as well get the best.

Jeff

 

[Jeff396]

The rental web page says that a weight distributing hitch isn't necessary for this trailer. The car I will be hauling weighs in at around 3000 lbs plus the trailer weight. I was hoping not to have to pop for something that expensive for this one time haul. Or is that something they would rent also?

That brings up another question. How do I determine where to load the car as far as tongue weight goes? I think I read in the owners manual that it should be about 15% of the total trailer weight. Not having a scale, is there a trick way to figure this out at home?

Jeff

 

[Jeff396]

I had the hitch installed at the place I bought it. I'm glad I did because the guys that installed it even commented on what a thick frame my truck had when they were trying to get the holes drilled through it. I sure wouldn't want to do that lying on my back!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif


Jeff

 

[mikim]

not necessarily true anymore Doc ... my 2000 Lariat has one under the hood in the fuse box - factory - and all it took to activate it was install a fuse (supplied in the glovebox) and turn a jumper -- I didn't believe til I took the trailer on gravel and worked at locking up the trailer brakes - left the plug dangle to try braking w/o, then reconnected plug and tried it again. Still don't know where, or if, there is a sensitivity adjustment though.

 

[cj7]

there is another point raised...

when do you apply only the trailer brakes.

the one is to help straighten the trailer.....

any others?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Jeff, with out a scale your not going to figure it out exactly. But I trow a 24' enclosed featherlite trailer and I normally have to guess because I have different toys that I take for different events. The starting point that I use is with the trailer on the truck(gmc suburban) I drive the toy on and feel the break over as the weight transfers from the rear to the front and start from there. If I'm only going a short distance I don't bother with the weight distribution hitch but, any lenght of hwy (speed) should be thought about becouse if the tail starts to wag... you don't want to look like charlie brown on the pitchers mound. If the trailer does starts to wag DON'T APPLY YOUR BREAKS USE THE TRAILER BREAKS FIRST. We either have our jeepster commando in it or 2 motorcycle and our lotus super 7, currently the bx2200 fel mmm,boxblade and ls-rake steam to be riding in it a lot(portable garage). Remember to check your break setting it will vary greatly depending on the weight, don't need to lock them up running dry or run out of break when your loaded, kind of like a prefight check list for the trailer.

just my .02 worth hope it helps if I can do more post up or email

Tony Immers

 

[RobS]

<font color=blue>when do you apply only the trailer brakes</font color=blue>

I use trailer only brakes when I need to slide my fifth wheel hitch forward or back. Also after hook up just to test. That's about it for me /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Hoeman00]

Put the trailer on your truck and look at the helper springs to see
if the are touching the main springs.
If the aren't touching load trailer and pull forward slow (while someone
else watches helps) until the main springs are down on helpers.
On my Chevy HD 2500 this takes a lot of tongue wt.
This also helps some of the rear end sway.
Pulling w/ x-cab or crew cab is easier, the longer the tow vehicle the
less the sway affects it.
I pull SSL and 20' trailer w/o wt. distributing hitch (trailer loaded gross 14k)
and have no problems.

 

[Jeff396]

I just got back from the trailer rental place where I picked up the Prodigy brake unit. I think I'll go ahead and get the load distribution hitch as it is only an additional $50 for the entire time I have the trailer. Seems like pretty cheap insurance. I asked about tongue weight and they said that they would set it up when I pick up the trailer. I asked "what about after I load the car?". He said that it won't change.....I don't understand this comment. Is it because I will now be using the load distribution system?

Jeff