Treating Well

   / Treating Well #41  
I'm not reading into anything.

If you don't think that ACID will hurt METAL piping then we should just agree to disagree. As I stated in my first post you should not just take it on face value that "shocking" your well will not hurting the plumbing. As I've stated I've disinfected probably somewhere in the neighborhood of a thousand wells and water systems so it's definitely something I'm familiar with. In fact I'm required by law to disinfect every well I work on and so I fully comply.

Where I take issue is when you issue a blanket statement that is just simply wrong.

BTW: I agree that the OP should attempt to chlorinate their well and can probably do so without consequence. Stagnate water is definitely a cause for disinfection.

chlorox will NOT hurt the plumbing. besides.. it won't be inthe plumbing.. it will be in the WELL.

ever hear of chloronated water? maybee drinking water in cities?

um.. POOLS?


In the county I live / work in. if a well fails testing. standard procedure is a shock treatment, then runthe well for a period.. then retest.

lastly. Whoever told you the chlorox would hurt the plumbing.. loose them and find a new source of info. they clearly do not understand all involved.
 
   / Treating Well #42  
so every well you've shocked you've destroyed?

cool.. then we are on the same page.

you see only 2 optins.

destruction or no effect.

I'm of the grey area in between.

minimal degredation per instance.

do it as needed.. when materials wear out.. repalce.

I've yet to tear house piping out after an initial disinfect.. or a shock every few years.

and yes. i agree you disagree with me. I'm fine with that.
 
   / Treating Well #43  
You need to re-read my post. I said that it shouldn't hurt it, you said that it wouldn't hurt it and then went so far as to say that anybody who said otherwise didn't know what they were talking about.

When you chlorinate water you are making acid. If you don't think that acid hurts metal pipes then I don't know what else to tell you. I have known people who shortened the life of their plumbing by chlorinating their water (on a manual basis) too frequently. IMO it should be done no more than once per year with a properly designed and drilled well.
...........

I think you mean base because most common bleaches tend to be fairly strong bases, with a pH of around 12. Here's a link to a bit of discussion about how it damages stainless steel. bleach and stainless steel
 
   / Treating Well #44  
What we do is pour Clorox into the well then run the water through the hose until it smells of Clorox saturation. Then run the hose back into the top of the well for a while so that it mixes the Clorox around and the inside of the well casing is washed down by the bleach water. Put the top back on the well and run the Clorox water into every sink or water outlet in the house and then let it sit in there for a while so it cleanses all water passageways in the house. After leaving it sit run the water until the bleach smell goes away. I run mine out a hose so I don't bleach the septic system and ruin the bacteria that eat the bad stuff. It seems to take a while for the bleach smell to go away.
This is what I do.. first time I let it circulate through the hose and down the well for about 4 hours - but I accidentally dumped a whole thing of pool chlorine in there, enough for 30,000 gallons of water :). Then ran though pipes, let it sit 4 hours, let some more run, let sit for 24hrs, then ran into woods till clear +4hrs.
 
   / Treating Well #45  
OOsik. You said something that has me in a spin. If the water does not test properly, you cannot build.

Down here in the North Vancouver WA area we have high levels of arsenic. So bad our neighbors at the bottom of the road were told not to shower with the water. Yet, no one has been told not to build.

Is Arsenic not part of the formal water tests that WA Require for build permits?
 
   / Treating Well #46  
"Minimal degradation per instance" is my stance exactly. My point being that you are in fact degrading your plumbing every time you chlorinate the water, if even by a little. Especially if you've got galv. metal pipes.

so every well you've shocked you've destroyed?

cool.. then we are on the same page.

you see only 2 optins.

destruction or no effect.

I'm of the grey area in between.

minimal degredation per instance.

do it as needed.. when materials wear out.. repalce.

I've yet to tear house piping out after an initial disinfect.. or a shock every few years.

and yes. i agree you disagree with me. I'm fine with that.
 
   / Treating Well #47  
I have a question for you guys. I believe the casing on my well is 4". It has a submersible pump. The well sticks out the ground about 18 inches or so and has a cap on it. I was told to chlorinate, you remove the cap and pour whatever you're using down the well casing. However, I believe that about 6 feet down inside the casing they have a rubber gasket to seal off the well and prevent any ground water getting into the aquifer. I think that seal might sit just above where the rubber line turns to go under ground and into the house. I also believe if you remove the seal it may wreck it and have to be replaced.

Anyone know anything about a seal being inside the casing?
 
   / Treating Well #48  
rubber line turns to go into the house?

take a pic of this setup.

do you not have a metal water pipe visable that then goes inside.. ( in garage pressure tank ).. or T's to the pressure tank right there?
 
   / Treating Well #49  
rubber line turns to go into the house?

take a pic of this setup.

do you not have a metal water pipe visable that then goes inside.. ( in garage pressure tank ).. or T's to the pressure tank right there?

It shouldn't really need a picture. Its a standard well same as everyone in the midwest has. No visible pipe going into the house. We're in Minnesota and it has to be below the frost line. I'm pretty sure that it has a black poly pipe that runs underground and into the basement.
 
   / Treating Well #50  
wow.. no black poly here.. not code in florida. rubber certaintly would not be.

we can use black poly here for irigation.. etc..
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2004 IC Corporation 3000IC School Bus (A51692)
2004 IC...
BUSH WACKER ST-180 ELITE BATWING ROTARY MOWER (A51406)
BUSH WACKER ST-180...
2013 Nissan Pathfinder Multipurpose Vehicle (MPV) (A51694)
2013 Nissan...
2016 Chevrolet Impala Limited Sedan (A51694)
2016 Chevrolet...
2014 Yale 3 stage 8500lbs lift solid tire forklift (A52748)
2014 Yale 3 stage...
FIRESTONE 420/85R30 TIRES WITH 8 LUG WHEEL - WHEEL FITS TM SERIES NEW HOLLAND (A52748)
FIRESTONE...
 
Top