Tried Some 1/16" 6013 Rods - I Like Them

[Gordon Gould]

The arm rest on the control lever side of my dozer was wiggley - drove me nuts and I wanted to fix it while I was doing some other maintenance stuff. The rest is mounted on a hinged .065 (1/16") sheet metal bracket. You need to lift the rest to get at the transmission dip stick. I'm just a backyard stick welder and sheet metal has always been a challenge to say the least. Usually I end up brazing it with the torch and a bronze rod. Even then it is hard for me to keep it from distorting. I decided to try some 1/16" 6013's which I have seen mixed reviews on. I cut the bad part off of the bracket and welded on a new piece. Made a butt joint clamped up good with a piece of 1/4" plate under and two pieces of angle on top to weld between. Back skip welded both sides DCEP. First side at 30 Amps, second at 35 Amps. It is not a professional weld by any means but it is way better than any thing else I have been able to do in the past with .065 material. Especially the lack of distortion and burn thru. The rods are pretty flimsy and don't transmit any feel. They also amplify any shake you have if you are like me. But even so they work very well. You should try them if you are limited to a stick welder and want to do some sheet metal.

Here is my clamp up and how it can out. You can see the pitted piece I cut off in the second picture. Those holes are for 5/16" bolts that hold the rest on







gg

 

[stevewarner1957]

Looks good to me. You do what you got to do with what you got. I’ve done that all my life. I’m sure some “experts” will be along soon to tell you different.

 

[PILOON]

I've also used those 1/16 6013's with decent success.

I tend to do what I call 'little spot welds' , like zap and let cool to next zap etc. works 4 me.

Problem is mainly to find those 1/16 rods as they are not in popular demand.

 

[LouNY]

Looks to me like you got it repaired and usable, looks good, what more can you ask for.
Somebody that wants to tell you how it should / could have been done,
needs to get there butt in gear and come to you and do it.

 

[Rebeldad1]

used to use 6013 on rust/rot repair on boats. will stick to most anything where shallow penetration is needed

 

[stevewarner1957]

Back in the days prior to wire welding the 6013 was the go to rod for sheet metal. I bought a cherry P&H AC welder that had spent its life working in a sheet metal shop. Just another tool in the toolbox.

 

[Peter 315]

Looks good.. I think I got some Hobart 6013-1/16 at TSC ..........

 

[spitter]

Gordon is that cedar or redwood clapboard siding on your garage ? {I like it}:thumbsup: What kind of stain is on it . ? Hows about the soffit material .? I wan,t that look on my house and I'm trying to figure out what to buy . Thanx.:drink:

 

[Gordon Gould]

Gordon is that cedar or redwood clapboard siding on your garage ? {I like it}:thumbsup: What kind of stain is on it . ? Hows about the soffit material .? I wan,t that look on my house and I'm trying to figure out what to buy . Thanx.:drink:

Thanks for the comments on the 6013 rods all.


The clapboards are western Red Cedar. I put then on backwards so that the rough side was out to the weather and just use a natural/clear oil stain on them, which is getting harder to find where I am. The last time I used Super Deck Natural #1910. They are 20 years old and have darkened some what. The soffits are just eastern white pine tongue and groove boards I bought at local saw mill I use. Wife and father put a red wood/sequoia stain on them before they went up and I haven't touched them since.

gg

 

[k0ua]

Looks good to me. I keep a supply of those rods on hand also.

 

[dragoneggs]

The clapboards are western Red Cedar. I put then on backwards so that the rough side was out to the weather and just use a natural/clear oil stain on them, which is getting harder to find where I am. The last time I used Super Deck Natural #1910. They are 20 years old and have darkened some what. The soffits are just eastern white pine tongue and groove boards I bought at local saw mill I use. Wife and father put a red wood/sequoia stain on them before they went up and I haven't touched them since.

gg

It is a good look! Around here putting the cedar rough side out is the default. At least that what I always seen and done.

 

[spitter]

Putting them up backwards shows the beauty of wood no mistaken it for hardie crap or asuck. :drink:

 

[dragoneggs]

Putting them up backwards shows the beauty of wood no mistaken it for hardie crap or asuck. :drink:

Agreed!

 

[rankrank1]

That is a good repair. I like 6013 rods for some things myself. For parts I am going to repair build up the wear spots and then reshape the added welds with common hand or power tools or have to drill holes in the welded up area thru the weld then I much prefer 6013 as it machines as close to common mild steel as I have found at least with the primitive metal shaping tools i have at my disposal. And I do like 6013 for thin metal when no wire feeder available.

If you like those 1/16" 6013 rods next time you see some 5/64" 6013 rods available grab some as my guess is that you like those even better. You would not think the 5/64 as compared to 1/16 (which 1/16 is same as 4/64 for the math challenged people) would make much difference but it does. The 5/64 rod has just enough stiffness to not flex everywhere like the 1/16 rods do so you can feel what is going on. The 5/64 rods are usually a bit shorter in length which helps as well... and yes I have even went as far as cutting 1/16 diameter rods in half to help with rod stiffness but no need to do this with the 5/64 rods.

If I must use 1/16 rods then I like 7014 better over 6013 if I just have to use a 1/16 diameter rod, but I will admit I do have a small pack of 1/16 6013 rods around as well. Simply another tool in the ole toolbox when it is time to take what you got and get a suitable repair accomplished..

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks for the insight rkrk1. I will keep an eye out for some 5/64 rods to try next time. A little more stiffness and feel would be good.

gg