Trouble with 1430

DonStillwagon · Jul 8, 2005

Hi - just replaced the solenoid on my 1430 for a different problem - it was hanging and the ignition switch was bad too - just too many hits with the pressure washer, I guess.

I used a brass marine switch ($30) and just a generic solenoid on mine - it works fine ($8). If you have the new diesel with electronics for low emission, be sure to use a solenoid from a newer vehicle - they have diodes to supress transients that might zap a computer. Mine is older and anything works that is 12 volts - if it will run a truck engine starter, it will start a 30hp diesel. Should you change the switch also, be sure to find one with an aux terminal - I did not, and had to put in a relay to make one from the run terminal - once the engine started, it would not shut off (!), so just added the relay, when the switch is turned to off, it opens and dumps the aux circuit too. I found a good use for the quick disconnect terminal (marine) on the battery when looking for options to shut the thing down!

You might still have a weak breaker that will not pick up the additional draw from the starter solenoid, or you might have a fault (short) in the wire to the solenoid. If the breaker will run the lights when in the run position it should be ok - the solenoid will draw less than the lights. If the breaker trips when the start wire is disconnected from the solenoid, then you have a short - find it or just replace the wire. You can also test the solenoid for a fault, but for $8, why bother.

After all that, good luck!

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Don

DonStillwagon · Jul 8, 2005

Just to clarify the first post - the dash breaker is just for control stuff, and the current draw I was referring to for the solenoid was just for the closing or pull-in coil. The actual starter current is delivered straight from the battery (follow the wires), and is affected by starter condition and load (cold oil in the engine and pumps kicks it up a lot).

The problem you have described appears to be something in the control side of all this, and could be the breaker, the ignition switch, the wire to the solenoid, or the solenoid itself. My switch was probably full of corrosion - I could wiggle the key and the starter would hit in (even in the off position!!), and even more worrisome from a $ standpoint, was trying to engage once in a while with the engine running. Definitely something to fix ASAP.

RegL · Jul 9, 2005

OK, I knew I was forgetting something. ( Alltimers I guess. ) Anyway, I went back and looked at my post from last Dec., Click here for link. and remembered that my 1430 has a start relay between ign. switch and solonoid . If you have one, that could also be defective. Cheap fix if thats it.

EDIT: shortened long URL so the post would fit on smaller resolution screens.

menchhofer · Jul 9, 2005

Okay...disconnected the black wire from starter solenoid and turned ignition to start..nothing. Breaker stayed in though.

The 1430 is a 02 model and not sure if it has a computer.

And, I am not sure about the glow plugs either. I do not believe it has any.

BobRip · Jul 9, 2005

If the breaker stayed in then it is most likely the solenoid, unless the breaker is tripping too soon. Try using a fuse to jump 12 volts to the solenoid. If this blows then the solenoid is bad.

Bob Rip

DonStillwagon · Jul 10, 2005

RegL is right - my cheap fix was the aux solenoid (regular generic starter relay) which I believe is used to unload the start switch. I forgot there were two solenoids in series. The aux relay uses 12 volts from the battery connection to the starter to energize the solenoid and pull-in coil on the Bosch starter, so it is not using power from the panel breaker to operate the starter solenoid, just for its own coil. The starter solenoid not only closes the power contact for the starter motor, but mechanically engages the starter drive gear to the engine flywheel, and that takes some amperage - thus the reason for the aux relay. Sounds like the aux relay is the problem, rather than the solenoid on the starter. My wiring diagram shows that the start connection on the ignition switch interlocks with the PTO switch and the neutral safety switch before going back to the aux. relay - all that should be fine, since the breaker did not trip with just the far (aux relay) end of the wire (black) disconnected. Were you able to verify the breaker would run the lights?

My 1430 is a 2002 also, and it does not have glow plugs or a computer on the fuel system, so I do get the black smoke on startup, especially in cold weather.

menchhofer · Jul 10, 2005

Okay..with what little understanding I have of electricity I have run a wire straight from the battery (w/breaker installed for safety) to the starter solenoid where the black wire attaches. Starter did turn over so I am relatively sure the starter solenoid is not the problem.

I am now more suspicious of the ignition switch or the 20 amp breaker on the dash although they both "seem to be working properly" I do not see any additional relays between the breaker..ignition switch...and on to the starter.

I suspect I will order the breaker and ignition switch Monday and see if one or the other solves my problem unless someone else has any other ideas or comments.

I do appreciate everyone taking the time to help out.

J_J · Jul 10, 2005

I have a similar problem on my 1445 which has a 45 hp gas engine. I thought my ign switch was bad and ordered one and installed it. Didn't fix the problem. Ever now and then it will start with the ign switch, but I have gotten used to lifting the hood and putting a screw driver across the start terminal and battery post, and it starts right up. I don't have an electrical diagram and no one else has one either. I may just wire in a new wire and switch assembly and see if that works. There is a neutral switch by the treadle that may be bad. I bypassed mine, I can't even see how it works. There is no plunger on the switch. It may be magnetic. Anyone else have any ideas.

DonStillwagon · Jul 10, 2005

Hi JJ: My neutral safety switch does have a short button - if it is not on the cam (treadle centered) it will not start. The 1430 wiring diagram shows the start wire interlocked thru contacts on the PTO, the neutral safety sw, the out of seat switch (which I do not have on my machine), and then on the to aux relay. Sounds like not all machines have an aux relay, so that may be a function of the type of starter and its current draw in the start control wiring. With your intermittent problem, it could be a switch or a loose or broken wire - you could possibly chase it down by applying power to the start wire at each of the connection points (with the park brake set of course) - I have had my tractor tram thru the brakes (slide the front tires) if it starts up with the treadle off center toward reverse!

Trying to find the open with a meter works best with an analog meter - sometimes the digital ones are so sensitive they will read voltage thru a bad connection when there is not enough electrical path to carry the current to do the job.

RegL · Jul 10, 2005

My wiring diagram doesn,t even show the aux start relay that's on my tractor. Instead it shows a 50amp fuse in the start circuit. JJ might want to look for that. might be in the vacinity of the connector box in the rear part of tractor.