bvanek
Silver Member
yes, maple, alder, and Douglas fir.....some cherry laurel that is harder. Maple and alder are soft hardwoods and not ideal for heating but I have 12 acres of these and Doug fir, so it's a free supply.You must have soft woods.... I have oak rounds that causes my 20 ton splitter to groan
Last season. I burned about 3 cord Oct-Mar, The temps were about average, but the usual colder dates were warmer and the usual warmer dates were cooler?.... had to fire back up in late March and mid April with snow and cold air from the gulf of Alaska.....This pattern is still in play today. Warmer days but nighttime still in the low 40's. In the mid 30's in May.
I can see why it becomes a personal choice especially with the type of wood you burn. So far, I'm getting by splitting with a maul.....I use an 8 pounder so the extra force it generates makes a difference. I have had to use a wedge on the large knotty rounds and this certainly stirs my interest in moving towards a mechanical splitter. That 8 # maul is a good one and has the right profile as well....does make a difference. (but you have to catch the outer edge of the round to get the "one time whack")
I grew up in Hood River Valley OR...we had oak, fir and apple wood (it was a fruit growing region and they would pull up older non-producing trees and replant with new varieties) Plenty of firewood and was the go to source for many. You could not split it and had to cut it before it dried out (like cutting through a rock). The lower trunk averaged about 8-10" and branched out with several 4-6 inch secondary limbs. The right size for a stove and no splitting. Most people back then had larger stove openings and could fit the trunk pieces as well..Excellent firewood but you better have a chainsaw file handy. The oak had similar branching characteristics and the fir was usually only used as a hot starter fire or rekindle. The oak was good firewood but left a lot of ash.