Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE

   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE #1  

Milo

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Aug 7, 2006
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Location
Preston County, WV
Tractor
JD 3520, Ferris Z2100, Kawasaki Mule Pro MX, Honda Pioneer 520
I'm not ruling out a L2501 but I'll probably end up with one of the two above Kioti's due to the better lift and more creature comforts. Where I'm having difficulty is I keep going back and forth over the pro's and cons of the two. I would like having extendable ends on the lower arms and definitely the pin type link adjustment over turn buckles, rear remotes, 3rd function in the front, arm rest, and a couple other things that come on the SE and after adding them in the cost won't be that far apart between a 2610 and 3510 SE so price really isn't a big issue.

2610 HST
Enough power (probably just) to run 60" RC or flail. +
No DPF so no need to run at higher rpm to minimize regens +++
Manual clutch to more gently engage PTO seems like a plus. +


3510 SE HST
More power so even better running 60" RC or Flail ++
But not all that much at the pto. 2610HST = 21.5, 3510SE HST = 28, interestingly 3510 HST (not SE version) has 30.8. Why is that?
Factory installed options than I want, rear remotes plus all the extra SE features in addition to the ones that I would buy a la carte on the 2610. ++

Has anyone purchased either of these tractors but wished they would have gone with the other?
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE #2  
I purchased a 2610 in November of 2016. I use the loader (early model not the new and improved), a 6 foot rear blade, a 7 foot rake, all with plenty of power.

However, I do not use the PTO, so I cannot comment on that power.

I had a John Deere 850 4wd, with loader and power steering that I bought new in 1989. The Kioti, with HST, did take a little getting used to. One issue is that I run higher RPMs with the kioti, so if your concern is dpf RPMs, that may not be an issue.

All things being equal, I would go with the more horsepower
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE #3  
Why are you moving up from a B2650? Make sure you buy big enough.

To your question about engine vs PTO HP.. this is power loss due to the nature of a hydrostatic transmission .
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE #4  
I considered the CK2610, but after seeing the differences between it & the CK3510SE. I went with the CK3510SE.
The included options on the 3510, that I would have added to the 2610, & the increased power on the 3510 just made it an easy choice for me.
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE #5  
I have just recently purchased a new 3510 HST with an arena package as I already own a Gannon and scraper blade. Have just used it a few times so I'm getting adjusted to it quickly. My only negative on it is that I personally do not care for the forward and reverse pedals being located so close to the right brake pedal, I have already been in a close proximity to a hill and then pushed the forward pedal........not good! Also how do you move into reverse while your foot is on the brake? But other than that, it's an excellent tractor and I just love it so far!
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Sheldon and Chevy, I agree the extra power would be useful at times plus I want most of the stuff that comes the SE.

Jchonline, good question. I went with a B2650 with a mmm with the intention of using it primarily for mowing duty with loader and grapple secondary, but I ended up acquiring more property and even more to mow (even though I've cut back from what the previous owner mowed). Given the rough ground of much of what I mow, along with trees to maneuver around, I bought a zero turn (Ferris 2100) which mows smoother and considerably faster than the B2650 with ground contact mmm. Now I find myself using the tractor for more loader and grapple tasks than I anticipated and let's face it on uneven hilly ground this is better suited for a tractor that's a little heavier with a wider track than a B Kubota. So rather than try to sell the mmm by itself and keep the B2650 and add wheel spacers and maybe R4 tires and wheels, I decided to sell everything complete and look for a slightly heavier, wider, tractor, whith maybe a bit more lift capacity but small enough to maneuver on my trails.
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Arizonacowboy you make a good point. I happen to like Kubota's single rocker pedal on the right for forward and reverse with the brake pedals on the left, but just assumed I would adapt or get used to Kioti's three peddles all on the right. Glad to hear you like your 3510 otherwise. Only other thing that somewhat concerns me (actually I have been following it here on the forum) is how raising the 3-point slowly isn't smooth rather more of an on/off, bouncy/jerky deal which one adapts to by raising it quickly then lowering it slowly to position.
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE
  • Thread Starter
#8  
More power so even better running 60" RC or Flail ++
But not all that much at the pto. 2610HST = 21.5, 3510SE HST = 28, interestingly 3510HST (not SE version) has 30.8. Why is that?


To your question about engine vs PTO HP.. this is power loss due to the nature of a hydrostatic transmission .

Does the 3510SE HST which doesn't use a pedal clutch have a more inefficient hydro than the 3510 HST which does have a clutch? Because it shows as making almost 3 more hp.
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE #9  
When I was shopping the 2610 vs 3510 was an extra $1800. The SE of the 3510 was $3500 more yet.

SO I got a 3510 WITH: horn, floor mat, loaded tires, cruise, link pedal, mirror, arm rest, 2 rear remotes - TOTAL for these options was $695.

More HP is ALWAYS a good thing - and DPF is GOOD THING as well - NO SMELLS NO SMOKE!

As for higher revs..if you use the link pedal it won't matter.
e-540 s 1800ish RPM and I runt that alot when brush hogging the lighter suff and rarely run over 2000 rpm - tall grass/wees when hogging or finish mowing is about it.

It regens ever 40 hours on average, takes 10 minutes and I keep on working. So what?

Fuel usage is 1/2 gal an hour unless I'm working it hard then it's still under 1/gal an hour. My 74 Kubota L175 (17hp) used about that much fuel. Consumption was a consideration..feared it might double with the bigger tractor. It did not.

I like a clutch/manual pto..but then I'm used to it.

You'll get used to the pedals...eventually. My biggest 'oops' is still when hooking up implements/backing up - like a car, the more you push the more you go - BUT - in reverse the pedal to the left is NOT a brake pedal like in a car but a go forward button...

I use a lot of implements (finish mower, brush hog, back blade, box blade, disks, post hole digger, carry all, hitch) and soon to get a tiller, so things are on/off often, sometimes 3 or 4 times a day. I got a titan quick hitch (similar to pats) and just use the turnbuckles. Not a big deal...you don't have to move tehm all that much and it's always a tight fit so nothing is swaying back there. Handy when it's a 950lb brush hog on a hill.
 
   / Trying To Decide Between CK 2610 HST or CK 3510 HST SE #10  
I don’t know if Kioti publishes the torque curve of their engines, but torque rise is sometimes a better indicator of useful power than the actual advertised power at rated engine speed.

I have the ck4910se hst and find power somewhat underwhelming when blowing snow. It’s ok for loader or box blade work, though, albeit a little on the light side.

I like the tractor in general, but would opt for the NX, with its flat floor and bigger cab if I had the opportunity for a do-over.

Not sure if the DK, which is now available with an hst has the flat floor. I do know that my local dealer seems to be moving a lot of DKs.
 
 
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