TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[WillKC]

Hey guys, first timer here. I followed the steps in the thread to rebuild my JD L120 K46 with a TT kit. While bleeding the trans-axle I can not get any reverse at all. I tried the TuffTorq link for bleeding, etc. The L120 runs forward just fine with me sitting on it.

 

[rooster59]

I have some problems with a Husqvarna LGT 2654 Lawn Mower. I have a Tuff Torq K46BN transmission. The problem is that the axle broke on the left side. It has the wheel hubs and broke inside the wheel hub. I called Tuff Torq and the directed me to Husqvarna. Husqvarna doesn't want to cover it even though its a factory defect. They want to push it back on the Tuff Torq. Its my girlfriends parents mower and they are wanting to get it fixed. I am not happy with the situation at all. I told them today. They don't have to worry about me ever buying any of their products. The mower was purchased at Lowes. The mower was made in 06 according to the manufacturing date that is posted on the serial number at Partstree.com. The mower was bought in 08. Tuff Torq will not admit or even look at the pictures of the transmission. I could understand it was a pump or something due to wear and tear going out.
The guy at Husqvarna customer service was implying that they didn't take care of the mower. Gee I don't think an axle is a maintenance part. It has signs of not being a clean fresh break all the way through. So thanks to Tuff Torq and Husqvarna. I have 3 options or 4 actually. 1. try to get it welded, 2.replace the manufacturing defective axle $80 plus the hub assembly that sits around the axle, plus S&H and time, 3. buy the transmission assembly for anywheres from $616.81 plus shipping and handling to over $868.87 plus 15% on shipping and handling, or 4 buy a new mower. Definitely will not be a Husqvarna. We have a Toro and I am glad to have it. We also have a Cub Cadet Model #2185. I have had no problems out either of those mowers. The Cub Cadet has had some work done, but to be expected since it was built I think in 1994. I really hope that if any you out there buy a new mower. Look at your warranty. You would think that it being a manufacturing defect and having several people who weld for a living and know what they are looking at tell me this. You would think that they would honor the warranty and make a happy customer. I will send some pics when I get it figured out for you to see for yourselves.....View attachment 321270View attachment 321271View attachment 321272View attachment 321273View attachment 321274View attachment 321277View attachment 321278View attachment 321279View attachment 321280View attachment 321281View attachment 321282View attachment 321283View attachment 321284View attachment 321285View attachment 321286

I had the exact same issue a couple years ago. I was able to buy the axle from tuff torq for less than $25 including shipping. you do have to remove the trans-axle to install the new axle.

 

[RandyT]

Will be rebuilding one tomorrow, if everything goes right. then on second thought I may just put if off to Friday.

 

[gobills]

This thread was a big help for me. Bought a LA175 with 300 hours and the typical trans problem for only $200. Disassembled, inspected and bought both pumps, even though mine had minimum visible scoring. Oil didn't look that bad and very few metal shavings on the magnets. Following directions and watching the video elsewhere in this thread made it look easy, and it really was. Ran mower for 1/2 hour yesterday, up and down moderate grades with no noticeable loss of power or slippage, so I am proclaiming victory. Thanks again!

 

[buickanddeere]

The K46 has those scrawny powdered metal gears. They have been known to fail.

 

[Gritbob]

Update on my rebuild: Had it done a 3 weeks ago, but had surgery so didn't mess with the mower until today. It started right up after a long winters nap, and I had to bleed the air out. Got the wheels spinning......great, right?!!? Well, they were going the wrong way. Read back thru the thread where I knew someone else did this. Took the tranny back off, and apart, reversed the one part, re-sealed it, oil back in, back on the tractor, and voila! It works great. I am sure it will pick up some speed as it breaks in, but as long as there isn't a big puddle under the tractor in the morning, I am happy. Thanks to the original poster of this thread, and everyone else who has replied.

I just wish there was a way to check the oil without dropping the darn thing. It would be nice to know if after running it the level dropped any. Have you all dropped it after a certain amount of hours to check?

 

[buckshot721]

I have a 130 that was given to me, about 400 hrs. Because the hydro unit howls when its working. Was reading some where else there is a peerless transaxle the will bolt right in, for around 300 to 400 dollars. I don't have a clue if it fits and not gotten around to pulling it yet. Anybody know of this?

 

[buickanddeere]

This ........or ......

SPECIFICATIONS
　 　 K46
Application 　 Rear Engine Rider/Lawn Tractor
Reduction Ratio 　 28.04:1　21.53:1
Axle Torque (rated) Nm (ft lbs) 28.04:1　231.4 (171)
21.53:1　177.7 (131)
Max. Tire Diameter mm (inch) 28.04:1　508 (20)
21.53:1　457 (18)
Brake Capacity Nm (ft lbs) @ 350 N (79 lbs) Brake Arm Force
28.04:1　330 (243)
21.53:1　253 (187)
Pump/Motor Displacement cc/rev 7/10
Max. Input Speed rpm 3,400
Axle Shaft Size mm (inch) 19.05 (0.75)
Max. Static Weight on Axle kg (lbs) 306 (675)
Weight (dry) kg (lbs) 12.5 (27.6)
Brake Type mm Wet Disc, internal
Housing (Case) 　 Aluminum Die Casting
Gears 　 Heat Treated Powder Metal
Differential 　 Automotive Type Bevel Gears
Speed Control System 　 Foot Control : Dampening System
or External Shock Absorber Available
Hand Control : External Friction Pack
and Lever Available
Bypass Valve (Roll Release) 　 Standard
Oil 　 SAE 10W-30 Class CD (1.9L)

or.................................................................

HD K66
SPECIFICATIONS
　 　 K66
Application 　 Light Duty Garden Tractor
Reduction Ratio 　 37.22:1　22.19:1
Axle Torque (rated) Nm (ft lbs) 37.22:1　420 (310)
22.19:1　250 (185)
Max. Tire Diameter mm (inch) 37.22:1　584 (23)
22.19:1　457 (18)
Brake Capacity Nm (ft lbs) @ 300 N (67.5 lbs) Brake Arm Force
37.22:1　330 (243)
22.19:1　216 (159)
Pump/Motor Displacement cc/rev 10/10
Max. Input Speed rpm 3,400
Axle Shaft Size mm (inch) 25.4 (1.0)
Max. Static Weight on Axle kg (lbs) 317 (697)
Weight (dry) kg (lbs) 23 (50.7)
Brake Type mm Wet Disc, internal
Housing (Case) 　 Aluminum Die Casting
Gears 　 Heat Treated Steel Gears
Differential 　 Automotive Type Bevel Gears
Differential Lock 　 Option
Speed Control System 　 Foot Control : External Shock Absorber
(Option)
Auxiliary/External Hydraulic Outlets Option (For Power Steering, Lift and Others)
6.9L/min, 31bars (450psi) @ 2,000rpm
External Filter Change 　 Option
Bypass Valve (Roll Release) 　 Standard
Oil Reservoir 　 External Reservoir (Option)
Oil 　 SAE 10W-30 Class CD (2.5L)
5W-50 (Option)

 

[antelisim]

Hello,
I need to replace the axe connected to the pulley a. Is someone would have a notice for the last step ?

Thanks,

 

[gobills]

I just wish there was a way to check the oil without dropping the darn thing. It would be nice to know if after running it the level dropped any. Have you all dropped it after a certain amount of hours to check?[/QUOTE]

If you added correct amount (2.2 qts I believe), and there are no visible signs of leakage, you should not have to check oil level. Where would it go if it isn't leaking on the ground, not like an engine that will burn it?Only a couple places it could leak- your gasket sealant, seals on axle, or it could spit out vent hole if you over filled it. Could possibly migrate up the input shaft, but you would have noticed if that was a problem during the rebuild.