TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project

[chrismac]

this must be some heck of a collectible tractor to put all this work, time, and effort into restoring it!. WOW..

Thanks, well not sure really how collectable it is but I do like a challenge, :thumbsup:

 

[chrismac]

Okay I have now turned to the hydraulics while I see what I will be needing to order, so I have a spool valve and the block whick sits under the seat, I will get this up and running before I use the other set up which has the bank of spool valves which was origionaly on the loader tractor, I am unsure of how the pipes should be run though as the were not all there,

Block under the seat with 3 ports on in the centre and 2 outers, which is the flow and which is the return.
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Spool valve in place with one threaded connection showing,
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

lower side of the spool valve with 2 threaded connects showing,
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Any guidance to which ports should be connected would be appriceated,

 

[chrismac]

Moving forward, I have cleaned out the transmission and gearbox casings ready for the EP80w-90 oil from my local supplier,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

That was after I found out that the 2 lower drain plugs were in the axle housings
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Once I had cleaned out all the debris and oil I filled the transmission up before placing on the top cover, but the next night I went out and the oil seal round the PTO shaft was leaking, rust build up around the shaft along with the seal not sitting correct has played its part in damaging the sealing face so out came the oil again with my little 12v pump, straining the oil back into the drum,

PTO removed and cleaned up on the lathe, some chemical metal applied to the pitting and dressed flush, I put the same size of seal back in, I should have now that I know 55mm x 32mm x 8mm seals are available machined the sealing face to remove the pitting, that will be the next step should the seal leak again,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

There is a rubber seal under this collar that is slid on the shaft with pitting visible on the surface,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

 

[chrismac]

Maiden voyage out the shed,
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

I have now replaced the wheels, only the rears fit and they are smaller than the origionals, the old ones were 8-18 these are 8-16, they look small on the tractor but I have been told the 8-18s are not very common, for some reason the fronts dont fit, the axle centre and bolt PCD is different, nothing is easy!!

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Front wheels differences, what a pest.

Centres

70mm
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

80mm
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Bolt PCDs,

100mm PCD
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

120mm PCD
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

I think I will make up stepped rings machined to fit the small centre size ID with an OD then bolt through by drilling a new set of holes in the wheels,

Anyone come across this wheel situation before?

 

[chrismac]

Wheel spacers made from a couple of old flanges, the holes were even on the correct PCD, but I drilled holes the correct size,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

 

[chrismac]

Coming close now
Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Nice job and glad it is working out for you! I haven't been following the thread for a while and thought I'd do some catch up. Couple of comments:

1.) Were those tractors brought back as artifacts from a recent trip to explore the Titanic? I've never seen any with that much corrosion! It is amazing you were able to clean them up and salvage what you have so far!
2.) Did you install new injector tips or reuse the old ones?
3.) Did you have to do anything with your overrunning clutch on the PTO to get it working correctly?
4.) I've had problems with wheels too for the TX tractors. Original front wheels are hard to find in the USA. 18-8 rears can be too but they were also used on other tractors such as Yanmar and likely others which helps availability some. For obvious reasons I prefer the 18" over 16" wheels although most of my tractors are running 16s.
5.) I think you don't get a lot of replies to some of your questions because there just isn't enough specific knowledge out there on a lot of the things you are working on. In many cases there is no reason for people to go into these tractors because they are still working fine, or people just let them degrade to the point where they'll go out and buy a new or different tractor. As you are experiencing, the time commitment required to refurbish these starting from where you have is huge and most people can't justify that let alone have the patience, tools, desire, and ambition to do so. I've found a person can get a working tractor for a reasonable cost and avoid much of this. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do what you're doing because there is a ton of satisfaction that goes along with it and I'm sure you'll enjoy many years of service out of this tractor, fixing minor things along the way as needed because of the knowledge gained which you can also extend onto other things of course. I know my tractors will outlast me looking at how long they have already existed and the condition they are still in.

Good luck with the rest! Thanks for sharing and please continue sharing your knowledge so others can benefit from you work!

 

[chrismac]

Nice job and glad it is working out for you! I haven't been following the thread for a while and thought I'd do some catch up. Couple of comments:

1.) Were those tractors brought back as artifacts from a recent trip to explore the Titanic? I've never seen any with that much corrosion! It is amazing you were able to clean them up and salvage what you have so far!
2.) Did you install new injector tips or reuse the old ones?
3.) Did you have to do anything with your overrunning clutch on the PTO to get it working correctly?
4.) I've had problems with wheels too for the TX tractors. Original front wheels are hard to find in the USA. 18-8 rears can be too but they were also used on other tractors such as Yanmar and likely others which helps availability some. For obvious reasons I prefer the 18" over 16" wheels although most of my tractors are running 16s.
5.) I think you don't get a lot of replies to some of your questions because there just isn't enough specific knowledge out there on a lot of the things you are working on. In many cases there is no reason for people to go into these tractors because they are still working fine, or people just let them degrade to the point where they'll go out and buy a new or different tractor. As you are experiencing, the time commitment required to refurbish these starting from where you have is huge and most people can't justify that let alone have the patience, tools, desire, and ambition to do so. I've found a person can get a working tractor for a reasonable cost and avoid much of this. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do what you're doing because there is a ton of satisfaction that goes along with it and I'm sure you'll enjoy many years of service out of this tractor, fixing minor things along the way as needed because of the knowledge gained which you can also extend onto other things of course. I know my tractors will outlast me looking at how long they have already existed and the condition they are still in.

Good luck with the rest! Thanks for sharing and please continue sharing your knowledge so others can benefit from you work!

Things have worked out not too bad, the engine was back to running state with the only expenses of injector pipes and a head gasket, I have one set of injectors at a local shop but they are struggling to get replacement tips, they tested the ones fitted and they are not atomising so the engine is a little smokey on initial rev, the costs have been with all the tin work and such things which I am still under the tractor value to sell I would hope, not that I plan selling it.

The PTO does not have the overrun clutch fitted that was confirmed when I was had the back end top cover off,

In respect of the lack of replies, in the UK I am a member of the stationary engine forum, similar to smokstak in the US, the stationary engine forum has a relatively small user base and answers are quite quick, when I started on this tractor I thought a forum might be the best way forward, this forum is huge though and has many sections where posts get lost quite quickly, although its been a good reference for some info but as you say some of my questions are not getting answered, but I will carry on with the photos and updates as and when and if it helps others that's good, all part of the forum.

When I started out on this adventure I had little knowledge or experience on tractors but I don't bring my time into the equation making the project more do-able, thankfully I have no immediate use for the tractor so the time side of things has not mattered, my downfall would be not having the camera to hand all of the time and probably missing some parts.

Next I will be moving onto the backhoe and loader so I will have to see how that goes as the weather is starting to get poorer here now, winter is coming.

Thanks for the comments.

 

[chrismac]

Okay, lastest issue is with the 3 point linkage hydraulics, see the thread started in the hydraulics section below.

just trying to keep all the information in the correct sections but all relevant to this project.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/402562-iseki-2160-hydraulic-help-i.html

 

[chrismac]

I think this explains that I need to pipe the 2 as expected ports together,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

I forgot I had this book.