TX1300F engine questions

[dantnz]

Hi All,

Long time since I've posted on here, but reading the threads - just haven't been able to contribute much.

My TX1300F just won't start in the cold weather, so I'm finally going to have to do something about its compression (lack of) issues. Basically I'm going to have do a valve lap and ring change as a minimum (incl new gaskets, conrod bearings etc), and see what else needs doing when the head is off. Already replaced glow plugs, starter motor.

Thanks to Fxrs55 posts I have some good tip to start with, but I just have a few questions to help me plan the job.

Can I do this without removing the engine from the tractor? Looks like it will be tight to get the oil pan off with the front prop shaft in the way? Just wanted to check that it can be done before I open her up.

Any other tips or other things that should be done at the same time?

Anything to look out for with the injectors while they out?

Dan

 

[dantnz]

Also - anyone got the torque settings for the head bolts - injector bolts etc?

 

[fxrs55]

Hey Dan, you can remove the oil pan without removing the
front drive shaft. Here a few pictures from the repair manual.
I can E-Mail you the manual in pdf format.

 

[dantnz]

Thanks for those pages, that is gold dust!

removed the head for inspection today.

Extremely coked up inside the combustion chamber - as you would expect with low compression. Did a quick check on the vale seats and both exhaust valves leak through badly - would seem to be the source of the compression loss.

As the bores look good and the engine does not burn oil, I'm very tempted to just lap the valve seats and put the head back on. This is my loader tractor and I really need it back in action. At worst it's only going to cost me another head gasket to do the piston rings if I have to.

I know its a shortcut, I may just end up doing the rings anyway. Anyone got any thoughts?

 

[fxrs55]

Can you rock the pistons back and forth a little in the bores?
Take a screw driver and put a little pressure down and then
see if you can move the pistons side to side. If the rings
are stuck you will not see much if any movement. If the
rings are not stuck the pistons should move side to side.
Also, When I did mine after I got the rings loose I removed
them from the pistons. I then got a piece of crocus cloth
and laid the cloth on a flat piece of steel. I then laid each
ring on the cloth and applied a little pressure by hand
and I gently swirled the rings around and that cleaned
them up nicely. I gently honed the cylinders and I reused
the rings. That tractor still runs great today.
If you do hone the cylinders you MUST cover the
crankshaft to protected it from the grit and grime.
I used heavy brown paper and after I was done honing
I flushed the heck out of the cylinders to get all of
the grit out With the crank covered. After I removed
the brown paper I washed the heck out of the
crank using SEA FOAM in a spray can.

 

[fxrs55]

Oh, On this side of the pond a new head gasket is $140 us.
If I were you I would drop the pan and remove the pistons
just to clean and inspect the rings.

 

[fxrs55]

Here is a link to the thread I made about my
journey fixing my TX1300F.



http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/iseki/273164-bolens-g154-iseki-tx1300f.html?highlight=

 

[dantnz]

Thanks for the advice - I've been using your rebuild thread as my main source of reference for some time now!

The pistons do move slightly in the bore, they seem to be sealing quite well. I'm really in two minds whether to take them out or not. Something that nags at me is that there was a lot of coking on the inside of the cylinder walls, it came off real easy, but I still find it strange that the rings wouldn't take this off. The more I think about it the more inclined I am to replace the rings just because I have the engine open and its done then, but it all takes time.

 

[dantnz]

Just another question - did you use a gasket sealant when putting the new head gasket on - I can't quite work out whether the manual is saying to use sealant or not.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Usually sealants are not recommended on head gaskets. There are recommendations to retorque the head bolts after a few hours of use though which I would recommend as well since these head gaskets have a tendency to leak around the cooling fluid and oil passages. Applying sealant around these area may prevent the need for a re-torque but a re-torque may prevent a cylinder leak so I'd opt for that (or both).

 

[dantnz]

Here's the page in question, if you can make sense of it.

 

[fxrs55]

I read that part when I did mine and though ok the head gasket
has sealant on it. I bought a new head gasket from the internet.
I found a web site selling the gasket for $59 us and I was just
learning about how parts here in the U.S. were in short supply
and expensive. The $59 head gasket was half of what others
were charging so I bought the cheaper one. When I got the gasket
in the mail I could see were someone traced the out line of the
coolant holes and then cut or punched them out. It did have fire rings
for the cylinder bores so I though thats how there come. Because the manual
says not to use sealant I did not. After several months of use the head gasket
started to weep coolant on the starter side of the engine and oil from
the exhaust side of the engine. I was very disappointed. I was not
going to buy that one again and try sealant. So I found a place in
Oregon USA that sold Mitsubishi parts and I bought a factory
head gasket and installed it. No more leaks. So it took me $199 us
plus shipping to do my head gasket. I should have bought the factory
one in the first place.

 

[fxrs55]

Oh make sure you get the head gasket for the
KE70 engine and now the KE75. The KE75 engine
has larger bores and the holes in the head gasket
are bigger also. I think that happened to another
member on this site Ilikeurtractor.

 

[fxrs55]

Oh, If you do the rings there were two
different types used. One had flat sides
and the other ones were shaped like
a key stone. It depends on the year of
manufacture.

 

[fxrs55]

Don't get me started. Another thing *&&&^*%#%^!#$!#
and also !!@#$^&%^*&*. Good luck.

 

[dantnz]

I haven't found any OEM head gaskets over here - so I'll be using sealant round the openings. There seem to be three types of those too!

Thanks for the tip on the piston rings, its just going to be luck on that front, I guess the old ones will be going back in if they turn out to be wrong.

Pistons and valves coming out tomorrow, so will be interesting to see how they look. I think the exhaust valves are 90% of my problem though.

 

[fxrs55]

Here are a few pictures of my head before repair.
I put the head on its side and poured kerosene
in the exhaust ports and the intake ports.
You can see in the pictures the exhaust valves
are leaking. Also these heads do not have steel
valve seats. The valves seat right into the
cast iron head. The cast iron is porous but as
the engine is run the soot from the exhaust fills
in the pores. Thats what I was told. After I lapped
all of the valves they sealed fine. I did buy new
valve springs because I though my old ones didn't
have enough seat pressure. The new ones were
much stronger.

 

[fxrs55]

Thanks for the advice - I've been using your rebuild thread as my main source of reference for some time now!

The pistons do move slightly in the bore, they seem to be sealing quite well. I'm really in two minds whether to take them out or not. Something that nags at me is that there was a lot of coking on the inside of the cylinder walls, it came off real easy, but I still find it strange that the rings wouldn't take this off. The more I think about it the more inclined I am to replace the rings just because I have the engine open and its done then, but it all takes time.

If there is coking on the sides of the cylinder walls that the rings
are not cleaning off, Maybe the rings are stuck in the grooves
on the pistons. This could be why rings are not keeping
the cylinder walls clean.

 

[dantnz]

Here are a few pictures of my head before repair.
I put the head on its side and poured kerosene
in the exhaust ports and the intake ports.
You can see in the pictures the exhaust valves
are leaking. Also these heads do not have steel
valve seats. The valves seat right into the
cast iron head. The cast iron is porous but as
the engine is run the soot from the exhaust fills
in the pores. Thats what I was told. After I lapped
all of the valves they sealed fine. I did buy new
valve springs because I though my old ones didn't
have enough seat pressure. The new ones were
much stronger.

Mine look exactly the same as that. Just lapped the exhaust seats and they are pretty good now. I'm glad you mentioned the lack of seat inserts, it took me a while to figure out while I was still seeing pits after lapping them! My springs feel good, will put the old ones back in for now.

 

[dantnz]

If there is coking on the sides of the cylinder walls that the rings
are not cleaning off, Maybe the rings are stuck in the grooves
on the pistons. This could be why rings are not keeping
the cylinder walls clean.

That could well be the case, either that or the rings are so worn they don't exert any pressure on the bore. Just off to the barn to drop the pistons out now, will take a little while as the loader really gets in the way of working comfortably underneath the sump.

Did you replace your conrod bearings?