TYM T474 No forward/reverse power

[Justborrowing]

Hello,

I was just borrowing a friends TYM T474 and everything was working great this morning, I stopped for lunch, but this afternoon I took it down my steep driveway (16% grade) and all of a sudden it had no power to back itself up that it backed up easily that morning and for a week prior.

I tried changing from Medium to low and changing gears and sometimes the forward would work, sometimes the reverse would work.

I got it to level ground and found that I was able to absolutely crawl forward or backwards but as soon as I hit an incline or an 8 inch pile of dirt with the wheels, it would stop going forward, while in gear. 4x4 would help but then once the rear wheels got onto the pile, it would stall again.

The hydraulic/transmission sightglass shows the fluid near the top of the sightglass, a little bubble up there. All of the hydraulics work perfectly and can operate them at normal speeds.

I know you’ll probably say that the clutch is ruined, but it was just replaced not twenty hours ago (not my fault, someone else abused it). I haven’t put even a half mile on this thing , I'm repositioning the backhoe mostly and not really using the front bucket.

Does anyone have any insight on possible causes/solutions. There are no lights on the dash, and the regen light isn’t on either, but maybe I could force a regen and it’s in limp mode?

Any help would be appreciated. I think it’s still under warranty and there’s insurance on it but I’m hoping it’s a fix I can do without that

320 hours (I got it at 308).

 

[Harry in Ky]

If it's a dry clutch tractor (as you implied) no matter how new it is, the pedal free play is a critical factor with that symptom. An operator with experience can "feel" for that free play and should know where to go next. If there is little or no free play you make adjustments first, then look for deeper problems if required.

 

[Justborrowing]

If it's a dry clutch tractor (as you implied) no matter how new it is, the pedal free play is a critical factor with that symptom. An operator with experience can "feel" for that free play and should know where to go next. If there is little or no free play you make adjustments first, then look for deeper problems if required.

Thanks Harry,

I spoke to my friend and they thought it might need to be adjusted as well or low on fluid.

I tried to search online about adjusting the pedal yourself, and couldn’t find a lot of specific info. Do you know if it’s a turnbuckle or something like adjusting a tie rod end? Or is this something that we should just let the warranty on the repair handle in your opinion.

Before, when it was working, I’d have to push the pedal all the way to the ground to get it to disengage and had a small friction zone.

 

[Harry in Ky]

A dry clutch (working or not) has nothing to do with fluid levels. I'm not familiar with a T474 so I don't know what the adjustment is, but I suspect it's a rod with a turnbuckle leading down from the pedal hidden behind the paneling under the steering wheel. Your last statement leads me to believe there was some sort of problem to begin with. You can feel for free play easily enough, but under the circumstances I would suggest contacting the service provider and see what they offer. If the pedal adjustment is out of range on the free play end, it wouldn't act as you just described. I think there's probably more to it than that. Be aware that many places backpedal rather quickly on clutch replacement problems when possible "warranty" issues pop up.

 

[ptsg]

About 300 hours and it already had a clutch replacement. Crazy. Wouldn't surprised me if the new one is already trashed as well. Not implying it was the OP by any means.

Hopefully, a linkage adjustment on the clutch pedal will fix it, albeit, once it starts slipping, it might be a bit too far gone. Should be a matter of following the linkage on the clutch pedal and you should see some sort of turn buckle adjustment. Get about 1" of free play on that pedal.

 

[Justborrowing]

About 300 hours and it already had a clutch replacement. Crazy. Wouldn't surprised me if the new one is already trashed as well. Not implying it was the OP by any means.

Hopefully, a linkage adjustment on the clutch pedal will fix it, albeit, once it starts slipping, it might be a bit too far gone. Should be a matter of following the linkage on the clutch pedal and you should see some sort of turn buckle adjustment. Get about 1" of free play on that pedal.

Yeah, story I heard was someone else was using it in high/4th gear to dig/ram into a dirt bank and kept being on/off the clutch for momentum rather than lifting the bucket.

I’m really hoping I didn’t thrash it. I’ve been trying to be gentle and haven’t traversed more than a quarter mile or so with it. Mainly using the backhoe.

I’ll look for that linkage this evening. Maybe the nut backed off and it’s just not letting the clutch engage fully.

 

[ptsg]

Yeah, story I heard was someone else was using it in high/4th gear to dig/ram into a dirt bank and kept being on/off the clutch for momentum rather than lifting the bucket.

I’m really hoping I didn’t thrash it. I’ve been trying to be gentle and haven’t traversed more than a quarter mile or so with it. Mainly using the backhoe.

I’ll look for that linkage this evening. Maybe the nut backed off and it’s just not letting the clutch engage fully.

I figured it was something along those lines and looking at some videos on how people operate tractors with a dry clutch on that side of the pond, they probably sent that handle throttle to the moon to make sure they really slip the living cr@p out of that clutch. No wonder why dry clutches get such bad rep.

I believe that model as 8 gears forward and 8 reverse. I don't get why people don't just explore those gears more, along with the foot throttle.

Anyway, somehow, I only have the workshop manual for the HST model but I've found something on the operators manual. Not a very good picture though.

 

[Justborrowing]

I figured it was something along those lines and looking at some videos on how people operate tractors with a dry clutch on that side of the pond, they probably sent that handle throttle to the moon to make sure they really slip the living cr@p out of that clutch. No wonder why dry clutches get such bad rep.

I believe that model as 8 gears forward and 8 reverse. I don't get why people don't just explore those gears more, along with the foot throttle.

Anyway, somehow, I only have the workshop manual for the HST model but I've found something on the operators manual. Not a very good picture though.

View attachment 3201454 View attachment 3201455

Hey there,

This is an update. I fixed it!

All of the nuts and everything were tight. But I loosened up the turnbuckle and lengthened it quite a bit and the clutch is engaging pretty good now. I had to lengthen it a few turns and it wasn’t super biting so I had to lengthen it a little more.

You can access it from under the hood, but there’s also a little rubber panel to pull out by the clutch pedal. It’s a 12mm for the locknuts and 14 for the actual turnbuckle, but bring along a 15 cause there’s not a lot of room to turn it and you need a little bit of slop. The top nut is reverse threaded.

This thing climbed up my hill easily, but I might need to lengthen it a little more even.

I’m not sure why it just suddenly stopped working on me other than maybe because it was so new, that some factory finish finally wore off and got it just that much out of tolerance so it wouldn’t bite. But I’m just guessing here.

Just trying to post here in case someone else has a similar issue.

 

[TractorTYMe]

You have a VERY trust-able friend.

 

[ptsg]

Hey there,

This is an update. I fixed it!

All of the nuts and everything were tight. But I loosened up the turnbuckle and lengthened it quite a bit and the clutch is engaging pretty good now. I had to lengthen it a few turns and it wasn’t super biting so I had to lengthen it a little more.

You can access it from under the hood, but there’s also a little rubber panel to pull out by the clutch pedal. It’s a 12mm for the locknuts and 14 for the actual turnbuckle, but bring along a 15 cause there’s not a lot of room to turn it and you need a little bit of slop. The top nut is reverse threaded.

This thing climbed up my hill easily, but I might need to lengthen it a little more even.

I’m not sure why it just suddenly stopped working on me other than maybe because it was so new, that some factory finish finally wore off and got it just that much out of tolerance so it wouldn’t bite. But I’m just guessing here.

Just trying to post here in case someone else has a similar issue.

Nice! I'm glad you got it working nice again. Thanks for the update.

Like the manual says, you need about 1" of free play on the pedal, before you can actually feel it pushing on the pressure plate. If there is no free play on the pedal, then the clutch will slipping and eventually wear out fairly fast.