Undercoating

[/pine]

From using fluid film on different equipment kept outdoors in the elements...I know it only lasts through a few heavy down pours...seems to me the undersides of a truck driven through a few rain storms and a few standing water puddles would pretty much be the same thing and require re coating...

 

[WhiteRam]

From using fluid film on different equipment kept outdoors in the elements...I know it only lasts through a few heavy down pours...seems to me the undersides of a truck driven through a few rain storms and a few standing water puddles would pretty much be the same thing and require re coating...

Getting it done annually is all that is required, do it when it is hot so it can creep in to the cracks. It does not wash off.

Getting the de-salt bath each spring is equally important, the salt/brine/chemicals do the most daamage when it is hot.

 

[Ford850]

I like Fluid Film since it creeps so well. I've used the aerosol cans as well as the sprayer and gallon cans. Here's what I settled on:
I use the aerosol cans to lightly spray inside all doors, rockers, fender nooks and crannies, or any other "typical rust-out" areas on the body. I do this every fall and a light spray is all that is needed since these protected areas retain the coating. FF does affect rubber if left saturated, and it will swell the door plugs, etc, if you use too much. But the stuff lasts inside those areas and I've had mine still creep out to the outside of doors a full year later.
For all other underside and large areas I use the spray gun I got with the kit. I try to do this underside stuff annually but realistically only get to it every 2nd or 3rd year. I keep the FF away from the exhaust and brakes, and only very light the engine if at all. I haven't noticed any affect on wire insulation or plastics, so I do let it lightly coat all connectors counting on it to creep inside and coat terminals etc. I religiously coat all battery terminals with it after cleaning them, on every mower, truck, car, tractor I own.
One more note about the spray kit. It comes with a longer small tube for the aerosol cans, with a multi-port end to broadcast spray inside doors etc. That works great!

 

[/pine]

Getting it done annually is all that is required, do it when it is hot so it can creep in to the cracks. It does not wash off.

Getting the de-salt bath each spring is equally important, the salt/brine/chemicals do the most daamage when it is hot.

Like I said...it only takes half a dozen heavy rainstorms and bare metal previously coated with fluid film will start to rust...yes it does wash off...!

 

[deezler]

I did the 2-step Zeibart undercoating + rustproofing on my truck late last year (2003 GMC 2500HD that was still very clean). I realize it is not the best vehicle protection system out there, but it was the only local shop that did any rustproofing, and for just $500 one-time it seemed worth a shot.

I first pulled off the spare tire, nerf bars and a couple skid plates for better access under the truck. I scraped all the loose rust flakes I could, and even sand blasted wherever I could (crappy harbor freight cheap kit... actually worked pretty well even on my dinky little pancake compressor). Then I went ahead and actually sprayed my own first coat of rust-converter primer from rattle cans. Then into Zeibart, where they drill some strategic holes to get the rust proofing into key areas first. Then they do a rust-converter primer layer also, and finally, the rubbery undercoating.

Some of the undercoating did crack and peel in a few areas. This is obviously not ideal since it can now hold water against the metal and take longer to dry out. But I think overall the Zeibart protection will add some years to the truck. They also offer an annual renewal undercoating re-application for $40 or so, which I might do every couple years.

 

[sld]

Like I said...it only takes half a dozen heavy rainstorms and bare metal previously coated with fluid film will start to rust...yes it does wash off...!

I do agree with you /pine. But the areas that rust are the nooks and crannies that never really dry out. Anything fully exposed on the underside will get the FF washed off but those areas are not where you typically see rust starting.

I prefer keeping the underside oil free and to keep it painted but I have sprayed FF into hard to reach areas like the inside the underbed cross rails.

Having said all that I think it might be a little bit of a waste to spend the time and money to coat the entire underside. I would be strategic about where I sprayed it.

 

[Mace Canute]

I have been getting my vehicles Rust Checked for the past several years. My 1994 Chevy 3/4 ton would have been scrap years ago if I hadn't. It's starting to show a couple of spots of rust at the top of the rear wheel wells now but that's on me for not annually pulling the rear lights (for access) and washing out the dirt that builds up in the narrow space there.

I got into it because a friend is the dealer for it so I often see some of the vehicles he does on an annual basis. The stuff works and works well but like a great many thing and as several have already pointed out, how well it works is quite dependent on the person doing the application. My friend's work is second to none and he goes out of his way to do the best job possible. I've made several tips for the tube wands he uses; he hates to drill holes so he removes screws and panels to get the product where it needs to be.

Rust Check is an oil based product that displaces water and has a creeping agent, two important actions for a rust preventative and I would definitely recommend it.

 

[ray66v]

how well it works is quite dependent on the person doing the application. My friend's work is second to none and he goes out of his way to do the best job possible. I've made several tips for the tube wands he uses; he hates to drill holes so he removes screws and panels to get the product where it needs to be.

I am glad you have someone you can trust. There is no question the person doing the job is all that really matters. Sadly, the majority of rustproofers are not only bad at it, they are also scammers.

I disassembled wrecked vehicles all my life. You see blatant examples every day.

Even vehicles that customers told me were taken back every year, for their "warranty touch ups", are commonly found to have little, or no material in areas you can't see.

Here is a very common example. This fender was removed for replacement. The photo shows nothing had been sprayed on the top rail of the unibody structure that wasn't visible, with the fender on. Rust is clearly evident. And, would have easily been prevented by proper application of the rustproofing material.

The inner skirt, and the strut tower, all visible when you open the hood, was heavily coated. Which is illustrated by all the dirt stuck to it. This is of course, designed to give you the impression, it's all been done like that.

This isn't an just an example of simply missing a spot. This is fraud. And, it is what we see the majority of the time. They usually spray a little on the inside, so it's not so obvious. And then, if they are caught, they can claim they just didn't get enough in there.

Few even try to do it properly. And, very few of them succeed.

Many areas are now packed with insulation, and foam, so it's impossible to get to it them, even if you try.

 

[nyone]

I once owned a truck that had ruberized undercoat on it. It looked real good until i realized that all it was doing was keeping the frame together.

I have a 95 k3500 dump thats had a plow since new. Bat some point it got a oil leak. Everything thats coated in oil looks great and has no rust. It still has that blessed oil leak and 2ft fish plates on the frame in the rear from rot.

Also knew a guy that used a hvlp sprayer to coat the under side of his truck in hydraulic oil every year. The truck looks great still years later.

 

[nyone]

We only get a couple months per year of salt on the roads in an average year. Sometimes less. I don't think any product out there will let you apply it and then never put forth any more effort.

Several times per year I crawl around the underside of my 2007 F250 and inspect for rust. If I find anything my usual application is simply Rustoleum Rust Convertor in a spray can. That stuff works great. The problem with spraying oils underneath is that you can never apply any paint. To me, a good application of paint lasts longer than anything else. As far as the nooks and crannies I always make sure the bottom of my doors are clean and the drain holes open.

Again, we are not a bad salt environment but we do get some every year. My truck is currently rust free and that makes me happy. Dealing with the issue up front and often is a good plan.

That rust converter in a spray can in junk. I scalled/wire cup brushed my yukon frame 2 yrs ago. Sprayed it with that. I found 2 holes in the frame this year. Tour better off with just primer and paint than that stuff.