Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30

[CreekFlats]

e. So far so good, about 6 weeks now. Thanks, Dutchy

Thats good,its interesting, first time I tried to fix it I just cleaned up the ends and it worked a bit but still wouldn't start sometimes. It was only when I removed it completely, cleaned it up and reattached it that it stayed fixed. I'm sure the cable was in a slightly different position when I put it back, so its possible there is a break or deformation in there somewhere that isn't showing up now. If it does do it again I'll get a new cable - autoshops here have 15" ones that look right.

 

[bvanek]

a very common issue in which Kioti is aware of. My dealer in SW Wash. gave me a new modified switch, but I never used it so I'm not sure if it is a genuine fix? What I did ,as others have stated is I kept lubricating with fluid flow and WD 40 and it would engage....Then I decided to cover the switch when stored with a rag and the last several years have not had to lube it again. The tractor is stored in an open metal building which has no insulation and of course bare metal is a condensation/moisture sink. drip drip drip

 

[SylvainG]

Would something like that help?

Hosa D5S6 Deoxit Cable Contact Cleaner Spray

I used it to clean the switch of a battery operated impact wrench and it worked very well. Had to open the wrench to access the switch but that's not an issue here.

 

[bvanek]

I think there are many lubricants that work...( if the problem is the switch itself,) then a lubricant might fix it....WD 40 worked fine for me, so nothing special, but I did need to use it several times at first and then when I shut down I would spray some in the key port as well. (use the tube to get inside real well.) I do leave the key in the switch so maybe that also helps? I think that some of these early switches lacked the proper film lubricant which led to moisture seeping in and/or getting hard as some have mentioned.... Not sure if this issue has been completely resolved because the replacement switch provided I have never used.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Since my last post I’ve had the issue return. I’ve had no-start 3 times since. Once it took about 12 tries before it cranked up and started. A little bit of lube spray seemed to help. Been good for the past couple of weeks. Kinda frustrating... Dutchy

 

[RandyT]

The problem I have with the switches is crank but no start due to the switch shorting and activating the kill solenoid during cranking or activating when returned to run position. Had one fail yesterday. Took it apart and cleaned the contacts and inspected, reassembled and it was worse than it was before. Will be getting switch number 5 for my 2005 DK45S.

 

[Alien]

Errrk! Wow! My CK30 is 2006 so is now 16 years old and never had a problem. Weird how that happens.

 

[PILOON]

Blame it all on the environment!
Heat bakes the grease in the pto equipment shafts as it does with the lubricants in ignition switches.
Clay based grease can bake hard enough that U can't manually extent that PTO shaft.
Switch lubricant can get so stiff that the spring that assures contact can no longer do its job.

I believe synthetic lubricants are the cure to those problems.

 

[IndyJay]

So I decided to get more firewood for the shop, as it was a nice but cold and sunny day. Turned the key to heat the glow plugs, then cycled through to crank the engine...nothing. I pumped the clutch pedal, then held it down and cycled the glow plugs and tried again to crank....nothing, then held the crank position on and pumped the clutch pedal, held it down too...nothing. So I wiggled the key back and forth several times until it cranked and she fired right up. Thinking it's not the clutch safety switch. After cutting/getting a load of wood to the shop I killed the engine and removed the ground cable completely. I cleaned/sanded all the contacts, although not dirty at all, and smeared di-electric grease at the connections and fastened everything up. There might have been a little bit of rust at the frame bolt under the washer, but sanded and greased it all, so now we'll see how she starts from here on in. I must say....that once the tractor has been started and run for some time, it always starts up if I've shut it off, to return to the tractor shed. Battery has load tested in the mid range (good) and is original. It is always on a battery maintainer too. I'll stay in touch and advise what she does the next time, Dutchy

Try CRC Contact Cleaner or install a new switch.

 

[DK35vince]

The problem I have with the switches is crank but no start due to the switch shorting and activating the kill solenoid during cranking or activating when returned to run position. Had one fail yesterday. Took it apart and cleaned the contacts and inspected, reassembled and it was worse than it was before. Will be getting switch number 5 for my 2005 DK45S.

Wow.
My 2001 DK 35, 20 years old - original switch