Upgrading glow plugs

[markct]

Stainless is VERY hard to machine.

Id stick with Brass or bronse reducers if you go that route

some is some isnt, 303 stainless machines realy nicely, 304 is alot tougher.
myself for a part like this i would use plain steel, like 4140, stainless isnt neccesary realy

 

[srjones]

Well, I finally found something that works (I think).

I took the existing glowplug and cut off each end, and then bored out the middle . Then, I took a bought a standard glow plug (pretty close to the Autolite 1110, but a Bosch version), then mixed up some JB weld and 'welded' it inside the bore. Then waited 24 hours for it to fully cure.

And tonight, for the first time in the 4 years that I've owned this tractor, I was able to start it without the use of ether. No leaks, no blowouts. Actually the challenge was to get it to make a solid ground connection as JB weld acts as an electrical insulator.

Of course it may horribly fail later on. I only ran it for about 15 minutes without a load, but so far, so good. If it does fail, my plan B is to use a 3/8 to 1/8 steel reducer with thread repair compound.

Total cost: $15. ($10 for the plug, $5 for the JB Weld)

 

[Willl]

Would a intake air heater work in place of glow plugs ?

 

[Superduper]

.......
I took the existing glowplug and cut off each end, and then bored out the middle . Then, I took a bought a standard glow plug (pretty close to the Autolite 1110, but a Bosch version), then mixed up some JB weld and 'welded' it inside the bore. Then waited 24 hours for it to fully cure.......

So at first I'm thinking that's a terrific way of getting a reducer/bushing on the cheap without the problems of dissimilar metals (stainless, etc) galling and seizing. Then I read further to the JB weld part... Just out of curiosity, when you got to that point, why didn't you just tap out the inside bore to match your new glow plug instead of epoxying it together? At least if it goes bad again, you can re-use it? Hopefully, it won't cause problems but JB weld is, after all, epoxy and it remains to be seen whether it is durable enough to handle the heat from the combustion chamber. There is a reason why spark plugs use ceramic instead of plastic/or epoxy insulators.

Although the question is now moot, regarding which metal to use, I would go with steel, plain and simple. Because the combustion chamber of a diesel is a rather harsh environment, I don't believe brass would hold up. I agree with the other contributors regarding the use of dissimilar metals causing problems... steel plugs in iron blocks with anti-seize compound is the way to go.

 

[RobJ]

Well it may not be as clean and spify as something machined but it'll work. And if it ever lets go you'll know about it pretty soon.

Welcome to the club!!

 

[Soundguy]

I think I'd ahve threaded it internally, vs epoxy. i think that is just waiting for a catastrophic heat failure under those temps and pressures..

Soundguy

 

[srjones]

Threading it would have been a better way to go, yes. If this does fail, I think it's possible to find a helicoil kit that might be able to use.

I'll post again if/when it does fail.

-srj

 

[srjones]

Just out of curiosity, when you got to that point, why didn't you just tap out the inside bore to match your new glow plug instead of epoxying it together? At least if it goes bad again, you can re-use it? Hopefully, it won't cause problems but JB weld is, after all, epoxy and it remains to be seen whether it is durable enough to handle the heat from the combustion chamber.

Basically, I didn't have the tools or resources to tap it. I know that's a lame excuse, but it's true. If this solution holds for a couple years, I'll be happy with it.

 

[dirtworksequip]

NEVER USE STARTING FLUID ON AN ENGINE THAT HAS GLOW PLUGS!

 

[Soundguy]

I think he was using starting fluid on an engine with inoperable glow plugs.. if I read it right..

Soundguy