Using a metal snake on ABS plastic drain pipe?

[Diggin It]

The toilet seems to flush fine, the shower drain is a little slower than it used to be. A sink full of water can take an hour or more to drain. But when I took apart the P-trap I didn't see any restriction including when I examined the pipe after the P-trap.

That says the problem is before the P trap. As indicated above, pull the drain stopper assembly and work the lifter a few times while running hot water. That should flush the goop that can't get to the P-trap.

 

[ChiefBodie]

When I took the P-trap off, I examined it and the drain pipe downstream from it. I didn't look down the sink drain hole.

I will try what is suggested with hot water and the lifter. If that does not work I will disassemble it again and look down the hole.

Update: I just removed the stopper and looked down the sink drain hole. There is no restriction I can see. I can operate the lever and see it working in the drain pipe. There is standing water visible about 8-10" below the beginning of the sink drain. I presume this is the water that stays in the P-trap to provide an air seal?

 

[Diggin It]

There is standing water visible about 8-10" below the beginning of the sink drain. I presume this is the water that stays in the P-trap to provide an air seal?

Probably.

If the block isn't there, the next step is to start tracing pipes to see where that drain pipe joins the rest of the system. You say it's an older house with mixed pipe types, so it could be a real task. If all other sinks, showers, tubs and so on drain fine, it has to be that one line and the block could be in a union or joint anywhere along the way. I'd remove and replace all cast iron pipes if possible (not buried in walls) since rust can be a huge issue.

A snake may not do it either. They're not always successful.

 

[pmsmechanic]

When we moved into our house we always had trouble with the kitchen sink drain. It would plug several times a year. Eventually I caught on and changed the drain to a slightly steeper slope. Basically I moved the pipes around under the sink so that I had about a 1' better slope in that area. It's never been plugged since and that was about 20 years ago.

I still have troubles with the bath tub every few years. Mostly longer hair from when people stay over. I just use the plunger with several inches of water in the tub and pull up sharply several times. That's always been enough to restore adequate flow down the drain.

 

[jfh28]

as others have said be very careful with galvanized pipes.......their useful life is 50 years.....after that rusting thru becomes an issue.......I would not use any snakes in a galvanized pipe......for slow running drains the first thing I try is to remove the pop-up drain or drain screen......plug up the overflow outlet and then insert the nozzle of a wet/dry shop vac into the drain opening.....wrap a cloth or paper towel around the nozzle and the drain to create a semi air tight seal and turn it on......you'll feel the debris going thru the hose.....after about 30 seconds turn it off......a good portion of the time this is all that I will need to do to get the drain running again......run some hot water and see....it's a good idea to open the windows and turn on the exhaust fan as drain gunk stinks.......also DO NOT do this if you have already used ANY drain cleaners.......Jack

 

[2manyrocks]

If you put chemicals in the drain and it doesn't clear, you then have the chemicals to deal with.

Those little sawtooth plastic drain tools are only $1.00 at our local dollar store.

Could you shoot a few pictures of roughly the first 3-4 feet of your pipes? My clogs always seem to be in the first few feet of line.

 

[MossRoad]

Well, since you can see the water in the trap, and you already pulled the trap, you can be pretty sure the blockage is further down the line from the trap. I'd still try the plunger first, as it's the least expensive, less invasive, less work method. Can't hurt.

Hope it works out for you.

 

[ChiefBodie]

I tried the vacuum method. I heard clunking in the hose pipe and was hoping it was debris. But in the end, it only sucked the water out of the trap. I did plug the overflow hole. I repeated several times and don't think that will work.

From the output side of the P-trap, the drain line goes almost completely level to inside the wall. The nearly perfectly level section is galvanized, and it connects to a 90 degree galvanized fitting that is in the wall. I can see it. It would be tricky to get any more fall in that pipe, and ... the drain used to work OK but has slowly degraded over time to almost complete stoppage.

I believe this section of the house was built in 1946-- ugh!

My wife is enroute right now to purchase a sink plunger!

 

[ChiefBodie]

Here is a picture of the drain setup.

 

[Diggin It]

Is this on the first floor or second floor? Is there a basement or crawlspace?

 

[ChiefBodie]

It is the second floor bathroom sink. There is also a shower and toilet in the bathroom. The shower drains but a little more slowly than before. The toilet flushes fine.

There is a basement. With floor joists above that are exposed. Lots of visible piping and wiring.

I looked in the basement. I believe I found the drain pipe being used, or at least a likely one. It is 2" black ABS going up through the basement ceiling. Nearby is a 4" ABS (toilet?). There is a no-hub fitting on it. They are y-ed together, presumably going out to septic from there.

From the upstairs sink, it goes something like this:

P-trap
Galvanized pipe almost level, to galvanized 90 fitting in wall that turns down
From there, in the wall behind the sink, I believe it must turn and run over to a wall chase. The kitchen ceiling is right below the sink so the 2nd floor sink drain cannot go straight down.
Where the most likely chase location is ... is where I can see the 2" ABS going up through the basement ceiling.
On the first floor, likely also connected to that 2" ABS drain, is a small bar sink that is rarely used. I just tested it, and it drains OK although a little slow. Unlike the upstairs sink it will not fill the sink while water is running-- the drain on that is more capable than the supply.

I really appreciate the help to try to chase this thing down.

 

[Diggin It]

I'd be looking around in the basement directly below where that sink is to try and find the pipe you see under the sink. There may be another trap made of cast iron pipe (unless it switches over to PVC before then) and possibly .... hopefully .... a cleanout that could be opened.

 

[RNeumann]

So with the p-trap off and the pop-up assembly removed the tailpiece is perfectly clear?

 

[ChiefBodie]

Here is a picture of the 2" ABS that goes up through the basement ceiling. This is in a small room with a lot of piping, including the main water service entrance (well.)

 

[ChiefBodie]

Success !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I now have a drain that is functioning as it should. I used the sink plunger, and with a lot of effort over about 20-30 minutes it first coughed up some black crap, then slowly started to drain, then more, and now whooosh!!! Thank you all so much for contributing. I was dreading having to pull galvanized pipe out of walls. That might happen in the future but it works great now!!!

btw it was very stubborn at first. At least 10 mins of vigorous plunging with only a little black crap to show for it. But once I started to see a little progress, the plunger seemed to get more effective as the drain finally started working. It seemed most effective right at the end-- maybe because of an ability to move a greater quantity of water back and forth?

 

[Redlands Okie]

That 90 degree connection in the wall is likely going up to the roof as a air vent and going down to the drain / septic. There is bound to be a vent pipe thru the roof for the sink and commode, sometimes they share the same vent. The dry vac is probably sucking air thru those vents. Often times their the problem when trying a plunger also unless the issue is in the p trap. A rubber cap on the roof vents or other temporary seal can help. Of course thats more work and risk accessing them etc.
If the metal line for the drain cleaner, roto rooter machine knocks a hole in the galvanized drain pipe then it was going to need replaced in the near feature anyway. Just not fun to have to add replacing that along with the rest of the problems.
The connections at the change over of the different types of materials for pipe are often a a problem source.
As others have said be aware if chemicals have been poured down already. Wear glasses and gloves no matter what is always a good idea.


Well I see you got it draining now, congrats. Now you have to wait and see if the plug you cleared was the problem or the symptom of the problem....

 

[Clint S]

FWIW I have also used baking soda and then vinegar. Dump the soda in, then the vinegar. Quickly plug the hole and keep it plugged. In the kitchen I use the stoppers and hold them. On bathroom I use a plunger to seal it. The foam builds up pressure and dislodges the plug. I chase it with boiling water. A good plunger is worth its weight in gold though

 

[ChiefBodie]

I had those two products ready to go if the plunger alone didn't work. Yes I know that combination can make a lot of pressure real quick.

 

[ChiefBodie]

Well I see you got it draining now, congrats. Now you have to wait and see if the plug you cleared was the problem or the symptom of the problem....

At this point I will take what I can get!

 

[MossRoad]

Success !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

...

YAY!!!

How much did the plunger cost? :laughing:

Those little black chunks are disgusting!