Valve lash adjustment on my F-1700

[whitetiger]

Setting the valves with the engine running is not that uncommon on older engines.It is not all that difficult to do either, I have done it many times. On this engine early printed manuals state running and later manuals state engine not running. Personaly I would set the lash with the engine off.
My repair manual says "Clearance between rocker arm and end of valve stem should be checked and adjusted with engine cold and not running and with piston at TDC on compression stroke. Recommended clearance is 0.30 mm (0.012 inch) for intake and exhaust."

 

[JC-jetro]

Now, my engine is diesel and obviously you do not have valve timing mark on the crankshaft pulley, although there is couple of mark on the pulley that should not be mistaken for the valve timing mark. The mark on the pulley is for fuel injection pump timing to open and close diesel fuel flow to the individual injector. Since this is my first diesel, I reckon I should disconnect the battery and remove the ignition key out to avoid self injury during turning the crank shaft pulley manually. I should then take piston #1 and turn the crank shaft and make sure the pressure is off of spring on both intake and exhaust valve and try to make sure in that given position I have the widest gap possible. I reckon that should be enough indication of TDC of that cylinder. I then should proceed with measuring the gap and adjust if necessary.

Am I thinking it right?

 

[TCBoomer]

Here's a method that I've used for years regardless if it's gas or diesel...

On a given cyl, adjust the intake when the exhaust just starts to open and adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed

It's never failed me

 

[JC-jetro]

Here's a method that I've used for years regardless if it's gas or diesel...

On a given cyl, adjust the intake when the exhaust just starts to open and adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed

It's never failed me

Great , that's brilliant. that should guarantee widest gap for each valve prior to measurement and adjustment afterward. Thanks.

 

[ccsial]

Don't forget this is a Japenese tractor. They probably wrote a Japenese manual for it. Then it was translated by a Japenese translator. Could be stopped was translated as idle. I've seen this type of thing happen on equipment we use in industry.

I would do it in the conventional way with the engine stopped.

 

[JC-jetro]

Don't forget this is a Japenese tractor. They probably wrote a Japenese manual for it. Then it was translated by a Japenese translator. Could be stopped was translated as idle. I've seen this type of thing happen on equipment we use in industry.

I would do it in the conventional way with the engine stopped.

You may have a point there, granted this is a shibaura Japanese tractor but it was made exclusively for American market for Ford, same as Yanmar is for Deere. I think the final editor was certainly American English speaking person. The manual reads like an American would write.

I agree also that I should do adjustment with engine cold and not running. I reckon I check the gap first before deciding to adjust. The tractor seems to run just fine. As they say "don't fix if it ain't broken". There is such a wealth of knowledge at TBN that you got to bounce your ideas off of the members. At the least you may learn a thing or two.

 

[AndyMA]

I do mine just the way the manual says. You just run the tractor at idle and tighten the lifter slightly until the feeler guage won't slip in. You then back it off until the guage just slips in and tighten it. I don't try to second guess the designers on this one. This is a very quick procedure and much easier than manually bringing each cylinder into the right position.

Andy

 

[JC-jetro]

I do mine just the way the manual says. You just run the tractor at idle and tighten the lifter slightly until the feeler guage won't slip in. You then back it off until the guage just slips in and tighten it. I don't try to second guess the designers on this one. This is a very quick procedure and much easier than manually bringing each cylinder into the right position.

Andy

I myself wondered why they do not elaborate about bringing each piston to TDC on compression and other necessary stuff usually done on gas powered engines. Your procedure seems simple enough and if head design is non-interference I suppose you can not bend a valve. I certainly do not want to close the exhaust valve on exhaust stroke to cause rod or piston damage. I yet to talk to my friendly New-Holland dealer also. Thanks for your good input Andy

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

The reason they want to do it at idle might be because there isn't a simple way to tell if you are at TDC, like timing marks.

 

[whitetiger]

The reason they want to do it at idle might be because there isn't a simple way to tell if you are at TDC, like timing marks.

On the crankshaft pully there are to marks close together, turning the engine over with the starter, the first mark to pass the pointer is your start of injection timing mark and the second is your TDC mark. A pointer is sticking out of the front cover next to the pulley as your reference point. Valves should be adjusted with the pistion on compression stroke. If the valves are rocking, exhaust just closing and intake just onening, you are on compression stroke. Just turn the engine over till the mark lines up with the pointer again and you will be on compression stroke for that cyclinder.
JC, If you would like I can scan the page and picture for you.