Valve lash adjustment on my F-1700

[Hooked_on_HP]

OK that gives you TDC for #1 cyl. Are there any marks for #2and#3.

 

[JC-jetro]

On the crankshaft pully there are to marks close together, turning the engine over with the starter, the first mark to pass the pointer is your start of injection timing mark and the second is your TDC mark. A pointer is sticking out of the front cover next to the pulley as your reference point. Valves should be adjusted with the pistion on compression stroke. If the valves are rocking, exhaust just closing and intake just onening, you are on compression stroke. Just turn the engine over till the mark lines up with the pointer again and you will be on compression stroke for that cyclinder.
JC, If you would like I can scan the page and picture for you.

Thanks Whitetiger , appreciate your help. I actually have the manual completely scanned on my laptop for use where ever I go plus pics of my tractor component. I did read the same section and as you know those timing mark are for injection pump setting although it give exact TDC of #1 piston on compression. But, it make no mention of TDC of piston #2. I wondered if I locate TDC of #1 and then turn crank shaft clockwise 360 (turning engine over )degrees to get #2 on TDC asI think you suggested. I suppose I can rotate crankshaft slowly and watch the valves and rocker arms. On #2 TDC both rocker arm should be kind of loose and no pressure on valve stem. You reckon?

By the way "Hooked on HP", my tractor is two cylinder (two banger, as I heard some people call it)

 

[whitetiger]

On this engine when one pistion is at TDC, the other is at BDC (bottom dead center). I have an 1100 Ford FWA with power assist steering and a 48" dozer blade. Its cute as a bug and fits right in the bed of my pickup.

 

[JC-jetro]

On this engine when one pistion is at TDC, the other is at BDC (bottom dead center). I have an 1100 Ford FWA with power assist steering and a 48" dozer blade. Its cute as a bug and fits right in the bed of my pickup.

Would love to see the pic of the little guy

 

[jimmysisson]

Spent a lot of years adjusting valves with (gas) engine hot and idling. Most furrin' cars I worked on were that way, and pre-hydraulic lifter US motors. Some you got splashed with hot oil, others not. Many were pretty messy, so you got fast at it. I seem to remember GM hydraulic V8s you could buy a set of little clips that fit in the rockers to keep the splash down.
Anyway, sliding the feeler in as AndyMA says is simple, and easier than crawling under with breaker bar to rotate crankshaft, getting help to see the valve motions, etc. You get good at getting the screwdriver into the adjuster, and tightening the locknut. You can get it darn close if not perfect, without too much blood. I don't know how low an idle you can get out of a 2-cylinder diesel, but lower is better for this procedure.
Jim

 

[dqdave1]

I remember the clips; they worked well; wondered how we did it without them after using them.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

JC, Sorry I thought the 1700 was a three cly. like my 1900. If you get #1 on TDC on compression stroke and turn the engine 360 will #2 be at TDC on compression or exhaust. I think it would be TDC on exh. but not sure. Christmas shopping has got my brain disfunctional.

 

[JC-jetro]

. Christmas shopping has got my brain disfunctional.

LOL
A big thanks all for all their insight, I appreciate it much , we sure beat this horse to death.

Merry Christmas to all and happy Holidays.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

After a few beers my brain started to work again. 360 deg. would bring #1 to TDC on exh. For TDC on #2 you would have to rotate the crank 180 deg.

 

[JC-jetro]

I'd like to bring this dead horse back to life for one last time and beat it again once more. If nothing else I'm pretty persistent fellow.

While I was reading the owner's manual I noticed that it contradicts itself on how to adjust the valve. In specs part of the tractor at the end of the manual it calls for valve to be adjusted cold, I suppose it'll be difficult to have the tractor idle "cold". By the way investigation of the shop manual revealed the same thing, doing it cold.

So, when I get to it , I will do it cold like I know how, although there were few clever replies on how to do it with the engine running. I ain't too good in multitasking.


Owner's manual specs page:



Shop manual: