Valve lash adjustment on my F-1700

[JC-jetro]

Yes, It's me again

I'm totally at a loss at the method recommended on the owner's manual on how to adjust intake and exhaust valve on my tractor.

It clearly states that clearance measurement and adjustment shall be done while engine is idling

What is it that I'm missing? from what I know and have done on my cars, usually get my#1 piston on TDC on compression cycle and then proceed with adjustment in order it is recommended by manufacturer that usually follows the firing order. I thought the whole idea is to have the piston position in TDC compression where both valve are totally closed or push rod and rocker arm not moved by the camshaft. In other words max gap between rocker arm and top of the valve stem. Below you'll find an excepts directly scanned off of my F-1700 owner's manual. I appreciate you all's input.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Well I learned somthing new today. After reading your post I got out my service manual and it also says to set the valves at idle. I don't think it will make a difference, but I set mine like I do my race engine. When the exhaust is at max. lift set the intake and when the intake is at max. lift set the exhaust . I don't even set hydraulic lifters with the engine running. I'm wondering why they want to do it at idle.

 

[JC-jetro]

Well I learned something new today. After reading your post I got out my service manual and it also says to set the valves at idle. I don't think it will make a difference, but I set mine like I do my race engine. When the exhaust is at max. lift set the intake and when the intake is at max. lift set the exhaust . I don't even set hydraulic lifters with the engine running. I'm wondering why they want to do it at idle.

I am also concerned how to physically do it when, the rocker arms are going up and down splashing oil around, while I'm trying to get my straight blade screwdriver to adjust and in the same time getting my feeler gage in there while everything is in motion. Too much multi tasking if you asked me. So far all I have done with my cars that requires lash adjustment (basically Japanese cars and dirt bikes) were done with a cold engine.

By the way I wondered if the head design is Non-interference, I sure do not want to bend a valve while I'm trying to do some good deed

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I bet they have a special tool for it.

 

[DieselPower]

I have a Snap On V22A valve adjusting tool. Works great for this type of adjuster. Just snap on a 1/2 inch drive socket that fit's the lock nut, loosen the nut with the handle and then there is a knob on top that is attached to a screw driver tip that goes through the socket. Since the socket centers the screwdriver bit on the adjuster you don't have to worry about it slipping off. Great little tool that I bought to use on B series Cummins engines in Dodge pickups that have cramped engine compartments at the rear cylinder. Found it worked great for everything else and is one of those tools you couldn't pry from my cold dead hands. If I get a chance I'll run out to the garage and grab it later and take a picture of it.

 

[shaley]

This has to be a misprint. Aint no way to do it with the engine cold and idling at the same time. I'd call a dealer and ask service.

 

[DieselPower]

Here's the adjuster I was talking about

Without socket installed.

With socket installed.

Top

 

[dqdave1]

DP; neat tool for the job; like it is always stated " the right tool makes the job go easier" is true again. Question; does engine need to be running to set lash or can it be done when not runningg. Better yet; how should it be done properly. I assume manual is correct.

 

[JC-jetro]

Here's the adjuster I was talking about

Wow .. Great tool !! but how do you work out the feeler gage if the engine is running , The gap will be changing constantly as the camshaft is rotating while engine is at idle. You got to have a fixed target and that is when the valve is in TDC (top dead center) in compression cycle when both intake and exhaust port are closed. Any other way and you're shooting at a moving target.

When I said cold engine earlier, I did not imply that the engine should be running. Anything I have heard and done as far as valve adjustment with car engines were done with the engine off (some manufacturer recomnmmend adjustment after engine reaches operating temp but majority do it when engine is cold). It is more difficult to keep the heat on the part when you shut the engine off, conversly cold engine stays cold. Frankly I can not see it being done with engine running and being able to get the gap right. I suppose one will say you will keep moving the feeler gage back and forth till you feel certain resistance for a given gap. That will be quite subjective. We need a better answer. I'll call my local ford guy although he has been stingy with his information

 

[TCBoomer]

If your using a feeler gauge to measure lash, do it with the engine off. It is most likely a misprint where the manual says idling. I've never heard of that before and can't really visualize doing it either