valve type question

[Tompet]

Kennyd,
Thanks so much for all the feedback...you sure helped so I can understand the basic concept with what I was trying to do!

I'm just guessing, but I assume out of the list of needle valves on page I would use the 3/8" NPT for 0-8 GPM? Also, this would stub out from valve (work port rather than in out port?) with cylinder hose attached to it?

tp

 

[kennyd]

Kennyd,
Thanks so much for all the feedback...you sure helped so I can understand the basic concept with what I was trying to do!

I'm just guessing, but I assume out of the list of needle valves on page I would use the 3/8" NPT for 0-8 GPM? Also, this would stub out from valve (work port rather than in out port?) with cylinder hose attached to it?

tp

You are welcome:thumbsup:

Well, you can use 1/4" hose from the valve to the cylinders since they are not continually flowing...and the smaller hose will also help slow things down a bit, plus it's cheaper and easier to route.

Yes, the needle valve would go on the work port.

But you definetly want 3/8" on the IN and OUT ports since that is continually flowing.

 

[Tompet]

Kennyd,

In one of my earlier posts on this thread, I wrote that someone told me my tractor (Kubota B2920) used 1/2" standard U.S. thread hydraulic lines...now I'm not too sure. I'll have to check. Since you said 3/8" on IN/OUT lines that is what I thought the size was on my BH power beyond lines were. Anyway, whatever size they are is the size I was planning to run to IN OUT ports of attachment valve.

With respect to 1/4" hose option you stated for the attachment cylinders, I could use either 1/4" or 3/8" (with proper thread adapter since it goes from 0-8 GPM) needle valve. But it would not hurt to go all 3/8" hose on work cylinders if I choose?

Also they only show one hose with restriction on specs and I'm sure it would be with swing cylinder since that is what controls actual cutting...make sense to you?

Thanks Kennydddddddddddd!
tp

 

[kennyd]

Kennyd,

In one of my earlier posts on this thread, I wrote that someone told me my tractor (Kubota B2920) used 1/2" standard U.S. thread hydraulic lines...now I'm not too sure. I'll have to check. Since you said 3/8" on IN/OUT lines that is what I thought the size was on my BH power beyond lines were. Anyway, whatever size they are is the size I was planning to run to IN OUT ports of attachment valve.

With respect to 1/4" hose option you stated for the attachment cylinders, I could use either 1/4" or 3/8" (with proper thread adapter since it goes from 0-8 GPM) needle valve. But it would not hurt to go all 3/8" hose on work cylinders if I choose?

Also they only show one hose with restriction on specs and I'm sure it would be with swing cylinder since that is what controls actual cutting...make sense to you?

Thanks Kennydddddddddddd!
tp

I saw the "standard U.S. thread" post...but I have no idea what that means! There is NPT, ORB, JIC, BSPP...never seen a U.S. thread! I assume he meant NPT but...you should use whatever size is there now to feed the new valve. It should have some info written on it. It may be 3/8 or 1/2.

3/8 is fine to the cylinders-but it is overkill, I was just letting you know you options and save you some $$$

I agree the restrictor is probably on the swing cylinder.

 

[Tompet]

Kennyd,
I appreciate you suggesting more efficient/economical way to go. I found a schematic and a couple of photos of a unit with factory hoses...the 9/16" listed earlier in this thread definitely look like overkill (as well as valve body) and I did not know if the cylinder size came into play, but if each hose (schematic showed) has a restrictor that does seem to suggest hoses, as you said, did not have to be that large?

From the schematic and photo it looks like the factory valve is a joystick. So with the valve you suggested from surplus supply I would add a needle valve to each hose feeding each cylinder?
I'm just concerned that Wood's may have done something proprietary on set-up...but I'm feeling pretty confident from all of your info. From schematics/photo anything look out of ordinary to you?

I also found at Messick's parts I can order the factory arm and attachment plate as shown in the photo for valve body etc. without all the other components.

Sorry to pester with all of these details, I just want to plan as much as possible beforehand. Besides, I have the time to plan...this past Monday emergency treated for a spontaneous retinal tear in my right eye and won't be doing much for a week or two!
Thanks,
tp

 

[kennyd]

I can assure you there is nothing propietary about the hydraulics on that machine. Just a valve, hoses and cylinders.

You only need a restrictor on one side of the cylinder, not both because either way the fluid is forced through the small opening in it causing it to move slower.

If you want to use a joystick valve, then the 9-7401 is a good choice, but more money. I guess it will come down to how much you are going to use this thing if it's worth the convienience of the joystick vs. two levers.

Sorry to hear about the eye's-that's serious business! Take care of them!

 

[Tompet]

Kennyd,
Info all noted.
No, I don't need a joystick valve on this.

When I looked at schematic again I realized that each of two cylinders had a restricted hose fitting which led to my question about the needle valve(s). What I meant was not a restrictor on both sides of a cylinder but rather a restrictor to each of two cylinders as follows:
to restrict the flow to each working cylinder with a two lever valve do I need a needle valve on line to each cylinder or does the "open center" of two lever valve mean you only need one? Likewise if using a joystick valve with open center would there be any difference of needle valve set-up?

Thanks,
tp

 

[kennyd]

Kennyd,
Info all noted.
No, I don't need a joystick valve on this.

When I looked at schematic again I realized that each of two cylinders had a restricted hose fitting which led to my question about the needle valve(s). What I meant was not a restrictor on both sides of a cylinder but rather a restrictor to each of two cylinders as follows:
to restrict the flow to each working cylinder with a two lever valve do I need a needle valve on line to each cylinder or does the "open center" of two lever valve mean you only need one? Likewise if using a joystick valve with open center would there be any difference of needle valve set-up?

Thanks,
tp

Alright...You are sure getting your money's worth outa me:laughing:

You would need one restrictor/needle valve per cylinder ( or "circuit"), doesn't matter if the valve is lever operated or joystick operated

Being Open Center has no bearing on this, that only has to do with the IN and OUT ports and the type of pump you have-you NEED Open Center BTW.

OK, hit me with another question

 

[Tompet]

Kennyd,
I don't know if I can continue with these high consultation fees!
I would hit you with another question...but I ran out...for today!

Really, thanks a lot for going along on all of this! Your help was super!

I'm going to order the thing Friday or Monday so it can get here by the time I'm ready to go. When I start working on it I may have another question...or at least I'll post a picture of the Kennyd Grinder!
tp

 

[kennyd]

Good luck Tom, keep us updated