Various BoxBlade Uses

[jbrumberg]

Boxblades can be useful at ice and driveway maintenance. There was around 1" - 2" of ice on the driveway at the time the pictures were taken earlier this season, now I have to get some sand. I am starting to run out of room as to where I am going to put the snow Jay

 

[jmfox]

Seems like brown is your favorite color. Where did all the grass go?

jmf

 

[coobie]

I bought my first(6ft) box balde about 2 years ago and would never be without one again,they sure are handy.coobie

 

[GaryE]

Here is a slightly different use. Works great in tight areas.

 

[MJPetersen]

I find this thread and its posts somewhat humorous. When I first began reading on TBN, I did not even have a tractor. It was posts on TBN that guided me to the tractor that I wanted. I have a YM 1510D. When it came to implements I thought about what I needed to do on the church property and first made a scoop and my 3 point lift. (I had lots of sand to lug around to the back side of the garage from the area that I wanted to make parking.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/98421-dirt-scoop-3-pt-first.html?highlight=rollover

The reason, though, that it is humorous is that after I got the piles cleaned up I need to smooth it all out. I read posts by Rob (3RRL) and decided that is exactly what I needed, Well it was what I needed on the scale of my tractor!! I can just imagine trying to lift Rob's BB--hah!! And of course I could not have all the "refinements" that Rob put into his piece of art. But I was sure that a box blade was what I needed.

But then I read Brian's (MtViewRanch) posts about all that he was doing with his Gannon rollover box. I had not heard of a rollover so looked it up on the web and decided that that was even better for my purposes than Rob's. The thought of having to get off the tractor to put the scarifiers down and then again to pick them up was not a good idea--to my way of thinking. So I decided that I would get a "rollover" box--like Brian's. Again scaled to my tractor--those Gannons are HUGE!! Some of you will remember that I made an "imitation Gannon" last summer. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/99596-rollover-scraper-minimum.html?highlight=rollover

I have used it like others here have posted--to smooth out the parking lot, to dig holes to get good sand for cement, to fill in holes that I filled with broken cement chunks and to grade my road. However, I have used it for another thing that has saved my back a bit and that is for tearing out an old side walk. A backhoe with thumb would be ideal for this, but you use what you have. By using the scarifiers I can hook the outside verticle standing edge pieces and lift them out of their holes, and then I can rip though the flat pieces. It works for me and saves a lot of time with a big bar and fulcrum and shovel. 'Sides it is fun!

With the pieces all broken up and pulled out I switch to the scoop and cart the fragments around to a place where I will bury them. One of the uses that have had for the "imitation gannon" is ripping out this sidewalk. I imagine it is somewhat similar to using the BB to lift out a big rock that gets in your way.

Thanks Rob of this interesting thread and am glad that you all inspired me so that I can contribute.

Mike

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Mike, I have a question for you. Now that you have used your rollover box blade for a while, are there things that you would do differently if you were to build another one? The reason that I am asking is that I am going to build a hydraulic operated rear blade. All the nice ones are just to much money and I don't like how they are designed 100%. I figure that I can build one for about 1/3 of what these guys want for one.

Anyway, I was just curious.

 

[MJPetersen]

Brian,

Overall I am very happy with it. I think that I should have made the arms that reach from the box tube back to the pivot with a bit heavier material--I get some flexing there if I hit something on one corner or when I turn with the blade down.

The second thing that I would do differently is maybe move the pivot point rearward a couple of inches (toward the scarifiers). This would give a bit better balance point--now there is a decidedly positive swing to the scarifier position and, most importantly, it would give me just a bit more clearance to pick the scarifiers over an obstacle, like a chunk of concrete that I just pulled up out of the ground. I had a couple of situations that I had to release the blade to pivot so that I could get out of the tracks that I dug for myself.

The other thing that I would do differently is that I would make the pivot from bigger pipe than I used--mostly cosmetic, but with the stiffer arms I could then eliminate the bolt that I use as a pivot pin.

AN hydraulic RB would be very nice--I am working on a RB with gauge wheels now. But more in the realm of mechanical and it will not be a "6 way blade." There are some really nice looking blades out there if you have the weight to lift and pull a big blade.

Mike

 

[3RRL]

I see some cool uses of the boxblade, especially the ones of the snow removal since I don't really get any out here.
The concrete removal is a great idea!

Speaking of concrete, I had to re contour one turn in my road this weekend. I had to rip through a bunch of hard DG and then move it away. This is where having enough weight to penetrate is handy.



Some of the rocks I popped up were pretty big too. This one was so big the boxblade un-earthed somewhat. But it was too big to fit in the box to get a good bite and drag off. So I had to get it with the fel and grapples. It almost sunk the Kama! I couldn't lift it so I dragged it to a spot and dumped it.

 

[Charlesaf3]

3RRL, I really enjoy your boxblade threads. I've learnt a lot from them. I'd like to put roads in my property and your experience seems to be very useful.

Box blade question - I'm thinking of getting a new box blade (along with a new tractor - L4740). Any advice on what is useful for road work (putting in new roads) - ie the roll over buckets, retractable scarifiers etc? Or put another way, what is really good, and what is just nice?

On new ways to use implements, I had my steepish driveway covered with snow that melted and refroze this winter. Solid 2 inches of ice, couldn't get the 4wd up. Couldn't even walk up.

I had one of those ideas which was either going to be genius or idiocy. I hooked up the rototiller, and rototilled the ice on the drive. Turned the whole thing into margarita slush which melted off quick without affecting the drive. It was a really great way to break up ice.

Didn't seem to do the rototiller any harm either, though I can't imagine it improved it But hey, implements are meant to be used, and sliding my new tundra off the edge of a hill was going to be a lot more expensive.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

3RRL, I really enjoy your boxblade threads. I've learnt a lot from them. I'd like to put roads in my property and your experience seems to be very useful.

Box blade question - I'm thinking of getting a new box blade (along with a new tractor - L4740). Any advice on what is useful for road work (putting in new roads) - ie the roll over buckets, retractable scarifiers etc? Or put another way, what is really good, and what is just nice?

quote]
Look at the price tags, usually higher the price the nicer the implement.

 

[Charlesaf3]

Well, yes, I kinda figured as much.

But I was kind of hoping to figure out what was worth paying a lot for, and what I'd like but wouldn't care that much about. For example, is the ability to retract scarifiers a big deal?

How about rear gate (forget the technical term for when the back isn't fixed.)

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Well some people swear by their box blades and some people swear at them. I know that about any commercial user will be using an industrial quality box with hydraulic scarifiers and Top and Tilt. I'm guessing, but maybe a top of the line model would have where the rear blade could both be fixed and floating. I can not make a fair comment on the std type box blades because I have never used one. Myself, I sorta kinda like the roll-over box blade, that is what I grew up with and that is what I have now. They are heavy duty, and work well in all types of grading. ( Ripping, grading forward and reverse, and smoothing) A roll-over box will cost almost as much as a heavy duty box with hydraulic rippers, but less than an industrial quality box.
I would think that it would be better to have the rippers move up and away as with a hydraulic unit rather than to have the rippers that just move straight up and down, but again I don't actually have any experience with a std type box blade. Here are a few pics of my Gannon roll-over blade.
Oh, and my Top and Tilt.

 

[3RRL]

Well, yes, I kinda figured as much.

But I was kind of hoping to figure out what was worth paying a lot for, and what I'd like but wouldn't care that much about. For example, is the ability to retract scarifiers a big deal?

How about rear gate (forget the technical term for when the back isn't fixed.)

I have plenty of experience with a standard type box blade because that's all I have. That's also why I made the modifications to it, to make it more versatile and heavier. It now performs as well as any boxblade or grader. You can ask Eddie or Brian, since they've both seen (in person) what I've done with just my tractor and modified implements. It can be done. You just need to become proficient with the boxblade ... and creative. If you haven't read how I modified my boxblade, read this thread: Gear Driven Hyd Boxblade.

If I were you, I'd get a very good quality, heavy boxblade that will cut with the scarifiers and also the blade. Weight is a key. If the the scarifiers are hydraulic, it's much less work than changing or setting them manually. But being able to cut with only the blade is also a good deal. There are many times I don't want to rip an area, rather just shave off smooth spots. I use only the blade for those times and weight is what makes that work well.

I saw that you read several of my threads about boxblade use, where I cut new roads and trails. In making new trails or roads, work with the land as best you can. Avoid rocky or large trees and work around them. Pick an interesting route, but one you can manage to groom the way you want. Make your choice of where to put the trail so you can work it with your boxblade or other implements you have. I tried to use the implements that I have, or make those I have better. I did the same with my tractor. If you are pretty handy with making modifications, you might consider buying medium duty pieces and doing the modifications yourself. Add weight by beefing up and adding sturdiness and some neat features too.

 

[davitk]

I will throw in some excitement from a noob, as I finally picked up a box blade albeit a cheapie (Farm and Fleet has the 6' KK on sale for 400.00), hooked it up to the three point, shortened the top link, extended the teeth as far as they would go and proceeded to work up the garden easiest work I've ever done.

On a side note I didn't pre-qualify the purchase with SWMBO, boy did she give me a dirty look as I backed that loaded trailer up to the barn. I told her if she didn't like me spending my money then she should go out and get a job so I could spend hers (well, not out loud....)

 

[jmfox]

I have an old hytico with hydraulic teeth, tilt, curl and up/down. It works as well forward as backwards. Great for finish work, but a little light for hard pack.

jmf

 

[Sniggle]

Anyone else knock off/break the end blades on the scarifiers?

I was using it, scarifiers all the way down, to loosen up ground to be used as a 3 acre pasture, and I did hit a few rocks (OK, quite a few rocks) and some big roots, but the damage to the teeth still surprised me. Two (2) of them came off (I found one and the back of the blade had failed and peeled open) and 2 others have lost most of the blade portion.

The replacement teeth are not bad ($8 each), but they are a pain to get to stay on the shanks without a good torch (which I lack).

 

[Mike058]

I will throw in some excitement from a noob, as I finally picked up a box blade albeit a cheapie (Farm and Fleet has the 6' KK on sale for 400.00), hooked it up to the three point, shortened the top link, extended the teeth as far as they would go and proceeded to work up the garden easiest work I've ever done.

On a side note I didn't pre-qualify the purchase with SWMBO, boy did she give me a dirty look as I backed that loaded trailer up to the barn. I told her if she didn't like me spending my money then she should go out and get a job so I could spend hers (well, not out loud....)

It's easier to ask forgiveness than permission. And I'll add, good move not vocalizing that part about her getting a job and spending her money.

 

[john_bud]

Anyone else knock off/break the end blades on the scarifiers?

I was using it, scarifiers all the way down, to loosen up ground to be used as a 3 acre pasture, and I did hit a few rocks (OK, quite a few rocks) and some big roots, but the damage to the teeth still surprised me. Two (2) of them came off (I found one and the back of the blade had failed and peeled open) and 2 others have lost most of the blade portion.

The replacement teeth are not bad ($8 each), but they are a pain to get to stay on the shanks without a good torch (which I lack).

No. I have not broken off any teeth or bent / broken any scarifiers. BUT, I have a construction / industrial version of the Gannon Landscaper. 66" wide and about 950#. Model LB120 with manual scarifier bar - you move a lever and a spring counter balanced scarifer bar swings down and locks into position. Pull the lever and unlock it and the bar swings up. VERY handy when working hardpack. Swing down the scarifers and hover the box just off the ground for scarifer only contact, breaking up clay, rocks and shale. Flip the bar up and box blade the now crumbly spoils. All without leaving the seat.

I have read where others with "cheap" boxes have bent and broken the scarifers by turning with them down and in the ground. I have done that a lot and never damaged anything. Now, I am awake and don't do tight turns, but a high quality box probably uses better than junk china pot steel and can take much more abuse.

Counter argument is that I paid as much as 4 cheapo TSC boxes...

jb

 

[MJPetersen]

I made a rollover box blade because I wanted to be able to use scarifiers and the box separately. See the build at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/99596-rollover-scraper-minimum.html?highlight=Rollover.That is that sometimes I wanted to use the scarifiers like a root rake or to drag something out--see concrete sidewalk demolition above in this thread and other times I want to just smoothing things up with out dragging anything new up. This meant changing between scarifiers down/scarifiers up often in one job.

I just could not see myself liking manually putting 4 scarifiers down, making 2 passes and then jumping off the tractor, putting the scarifiers up, making a couple of passes and then repeating. So I figured that I needed to either go with hydraulic or manually operated scarifiers, or with the rollover box. Since I do not have aux hydraulics my choices were manual or the rollover. I was fascinated with the Gannon so I tried to imitate it in my copy. I really like it and have not damaged it at all--other than scratches.

Mike

 

[3RRL]

Anyone else knock off/break the end blades on the scarifiers?

Well...yeah! (my infamous photo)
I do have a 55hp tractor which accounts for yanking them through a lot. It did not even slow down when this happened.
The spares are inexpensive at Agri-Supply.



But that was before I made some 5/8" thick supports for them. Since then I've had zero break or bend.



John, thinking about what you said. LOL ... I figure I've still got 2 cheapo boxblades to catch up to you.
Even with what I've got invested in mods on my old Howse. Not so bad in my book. I'll say I've made good use of it too, probably saving quite a bit of dough doing all my own grading and leveling for the house and barn pads. Let alone all the road maintenance I do with it. If you have the means and do it right, I think upgrading the boxblade is worthy of consideration as opposed to spending it up front?