Various BoxBlade Uses

[8934]

I have both, and have only used my box blade a few times. I much perfer a straight blade, due to angle capability.

 

[Hookblock]

I started using mine for cutting wood. I should say clearing a spot to drop a tree. No more cutting wood in snow up to my knees Next option T n t, I had much better luck at moving snow with the BB and adjusting the cut so I wasn't cutting into the ground like I was with the loader. The ground under 16-18 '' of snow wasn't frozen.

 

[3RRL]

I started using mine for cutting wood. I should say clearing a spot to drop a tree. No more cutting wood in snow up to my knees Next option T n t, I had much better luck at moving snow with the BB and adjusting the cut so I wasn't cutting into the ground like I was with the loader. The ground under 16-18 '' of snow wasn't frozen.

lol, now THAT is an interesting use of the box blade.

 

[Wingone]

Hey there 3RRL .... a quick question on your box blade setup... Do you have tnt and have hydraulic cylinders on both vertical arms on your 3 point? I can't quite tell from your pictures.. but I can't figure out how you get that box blade in all those positions unless you have hydraulic cylinders on top and both sides? Thanks

 

[3RRL]

Hey there 3RRL .... a quick question on your box blade setup... Do you have tnt and have hydraulic cylinders on both vertical arms on your 3 point? I can't quite tell from your pictures.. but I can't figure out how you get that box blade in all those positions unless you have hydraulic cylinders on top and both sides? Thanks

Hi, thanks for your interest.
Yes I have hydraulic side link cylinders on both sides plus a hydraulic top link. I have double pilot operated check valves on all 3 cylinders. I added them myself a while ago and they are beefy. I put the 2 side link cylinders together myself and bought the top link from CCM. I used the OEM valve that used to work the 2 rear remotes to control the side links. Then I installed another valve for my 3 rear remotes.
Here's the link to that thread: Installing Side Links and Rear Remotes
Here are some photos of that set up and also a video of working them all...





Here's a video of my boxblade working.
Watch how I put the rippers down and rip. Then after ripping a few feet I raise them up and start to smooth the pad I'm building. That only rips up where I want and I can move that dirt to a different place without tearing up the whole pad. There is a link on the first couple posts to my hydraulic box blade modification.

 

[IH3444]

That is awesome Rob!

 

[Wingone]

whew.. as Robin would say "holy contortionist, Batman - is there any axis that box blade won't bend on" impressive stuff!!!!

 

[3RRL]

Thanks guys,
I know I've posted some of those videos before, so I hope you don't mind.
I have many of using the box blade for all kinds of different stuff and some of the other implements I've made modifications on.

 

[john_bud]

Rob, do you have any idea how long that would take me cranking to do that by hand?!?!

By the way, I just picked up a 7' back blade today. An older one, but still in decent shape and about 450 pounds. The previous owner has added a kick stand leg on the front (it needs some refinement, but is a good start!) and a rod on the back to stack up bar bell weights. Ran it around the back yard pulling snow and with the blade angled sharply it can pull the tractor off line pretty easy on the snow. Dern R4's.


jb

 

[Eightpoint]

3RRL - That is a great setup you have with the TNT - really makes the adjustments fast and easy. I could see where a setup like that would make using certain attachments more desirable. I have ditches on either side of my driveway and the hand cranking/adjusting to get the box blade or rear blade angled right gets old in a hurry and makes that job much more of a chore.

 

[3RRL]

Rob, do you have any idea how long that would take me cranking to do that by hand?!?!

By the way, I just picked up a 7' back blade today. An older one, but still in decent shape and about 450 pounds. The previous owner has added a kick stand leg on the front (it needs some refinement, but is a good start!) and a rod on the back to stack up bar bell weights. Ran it around the back yard pulling snow and with the blade angled sharply it can pull the tractor off line pretty easy on the snow. Dern R4's.


jb

Yeah, I know all about the hand cranking. lol ...I got blisters just thinking about it.
When I decided to maintain my own roads, make new roads and trails and cut all the gutters myself, I knew I "needed" the entire top and tilt system.
That backblade sound real good. Had I not gotten the boxblade when I bought the tractor, I probably would've gotten one too. But only having the one made me use it for many things. BTW, what is "snow" hahaha. (Just kidding, we got some here one time)

 

[3RRL]

3RRL - That is a great setup you have with the TNT - really makes the adjustments fast and easy. I could see where a setup like that would make using certain attachments more desirable. I have ditches on either side of my driveway and the hand cranking/adjusting to get the box blade or rear blade angled right gets old in a hurry and makes that job much more of a chore.

Like I told John above, that set up is definitely worth the trouble installing it. If you do it yourself, buy your own components and hose, it's quite a bit cheaper than having it done by your dealer ... like less than 1/2 price.
Did you see the gutters I am able to cut on my dirt roads?
Not only that, but going from ripping to moving dirt to smoothing is a snap with the hydraulic rippers and the TNT set up.

 

[Eightpoint]

Yeah - those ditches you did are impressive.

A set of rear remotes along with a hydraulic toplink just came up for sale on eBay for a Kubota BX24 or BX25. I have been thinking about how to do this mod on my BX2230 but I keep convincing myself that getting a new BX25 is a better solution as the plumbing is already in the back. But I can't seem to convince the "powers that be" that now is a good time to get a new tractor though...

 

[Ken45101]

Darn, all these years of being reasonably happy with the box blade I have and now after reading this thread and looking at the photos I realize it would be a lot more useful if it was wider Mine is narrower than the tractor so I have to swing it over to cut gutters but swinging it over raises it back up too much.

But darn, I know a sturdy but wider box blade will be expensive

Good thread, good pictures.

Ken

 

[3RRL]

Yeah - those ditches you did are impressive.

A set of rear remotes along with a hydraulic toplink just came up for sale on eBay for a Kubota BX24 or BX25. I have been thinking about how to do this mod on my BX2230 but I keep convincing myself that getting a new BX25 is a better solution as the plumbing is already in the back. But I can't seem to convince the "powers that be" that now is a good time to get a new tractor though...

Eightpoint,
Top and Tilt is a wonderful thing.
If you can't get the boss to buy you a new tractor, just install it on your BX2230 ... what the heck? I'm now in the process of installing Top and Tilt on my wife's 28ho Jinma 284 tractor (along with several other mods).
Go here to see the installation: New Mods to Loretta's 284 Jinma

 

[3RRL]

Darn, all these years of being reasonably happy with the box blade I have and now after reading this thread and looking at the photos I realize it would be a lot more useful if it was wider Mine is narrower than the tractor so I have to swing it over to cut gutters but swinging it over raises it back up too much.

But darn, I know a sturdy but wider box blade will be expensive

Good thread, good pictures.

Ken

Hi Ken,
When I bought my boxblade I read that you want the box to be at least as wide as the rear tires. I decided to get one that was about 6" wider per side than the rears. I turned out to be a good choice and very handy. Since then I set the rears at their widest and the box still stick out about 3" per side.
I'm sure you could find a used on on Craig's List or ebay or the local paper? A little clean up and a paint job is all you need. As long as it's reasonably heavy and wide enough of course.
Rob-

 

[pennwalk]

Rob the way that box blade dances I hope you never build a low rider you would make the boys down at the drive in cry.

Chris

 

[3RRL]

Rob the way that box blade dances I hope you never build a low rider you would make the boys down at the drive in cry.

Chris

lol...

 

[Ken45101]

Hi Ken,
When I bought my boxblade I read that you want the box to be at least as wide as the rear tires. I decided to get one that was about 6" wider per side than the rears. I turned out to be a good choice and very handy.

Ten years ago, I had not read that about the width but it makes good sense. But I picked mine up used, good heavy duty 6' with cat 2 hitch, $300 IIRC. I think it was the first accessory I bought besides the brush mower.

I'll have to watch Craig's list but I doubt that any 8' heavy duty ones will turn up locally. Heck, it's probably hard even finding a new one that big although I'm sure they can order one. But I really like to look before I buy.

I notice the new Woods medium and heavy duty have a hinged back on them. Is that good or bad? Seems to me that for final smoothing, I like to tilt it up and let it ride on the back, lifting the cutting edge up a slight bit. Doesn't the hinged rear defeat that?

Ken

 

[Gittyup]

Most of the hinged rears can be fastened down, if desired.