Rotary Cutter Very used rotary mower, questions

[ning]

I'm in the market for a rotary mower and this one came up in the local CL.
It's supposedly a 60 inch, which should place is safely in the cat 1 I'd think, but I've asked the seller to measure across the pins.

I've a couple questions for the TBN experts, or at least the know-more-than-me folks:
1 - how do you attach a top link on that loop? or will that rotate 180 so I can use the two holes that are currently below the loop?
2 - looks like some substantial sheet metal damage on the top, right side (looking at picture). Can I just weld patches of metal over the holes with a perimeter bead and say "good enough?
3 - other things to consider?
4 - would you pay $75 for this? seller says "I have never used this mower. bought it about 12 years ago and never bought a tractor to put it on. It was supposed to work when I bought it" but you know CL.

In case it matters - I have 3 acres to mow maybe twice a year, and another acre that needs to be mowed probably 4-5x in the spring/early summer, with the goal just to knock grasses down... there's no brush involved, though there may be the occasional rock.

 

[wagne223]

With the deck rotting out, you have a lot of repair work to do. Even more if you use it within 1000 ft of people or animals.
I would not expect that deck to contain a rock.

I would not even consider it, but I have enough projects and just need my mower to work when I need it.

If you do consider it, first see if the gearbox turns. Then check to see if there is oil in it. Also, if there is water in that oil.

Raise it up and look at the blades, and stump jumper, and spin to see if the shaft is true.

If the gearbox is not leaking, it will as soon as you start using it. Plan on new seals while you are repairing the deck.

 

[ning]

I have enough projects

yeah... so do I.
I think I'll stop being so cheap and find a better one.
Thanks, and I'll remember your advice for the next one I look at!

 

[California]

That's not a mower, it's a project. But I've tackled projects like that. I might buy it if I needed a mower only a few hours a year.

That top link is supposed to provide a variable-length connection. Because you don't want to be rigidly connected when you cross a low spot, which would make the mower carry some of the weight of the tractor instead of your rear tires. Not a problem, nothing to fix. I use a simple loop of chain around the top of my qhitch and around the top of my mower. It is sufficient to lift the mower when I want to, and flexible, like that connector, the rest of the time.

Fixing the deck is going to be a PIA. I would raise that rear wheel then put a plank across the structural parts on the damaged side. Then carefully drive a tractor tire across some blocking and onto the plank, noting if that pushed the gearhead down enough to make clearance between the blades and the housing. If no results then jack up that low front corner, with weight still resting on those structural bars. He obviously hit something while running and bent the corner down. So applying similar stress upward to straighten the housing shouldn't be too difficult. Worst case if this doesn't raise that low front corner, apply heat with a torch while stressed, to let the reinforcements at that front corner bend back up to to get the clearance needed.

Oil? Drain to get the water out. Refill. See if it leaks so severely that it needs seals. (Is there oil under where he had it parked?)

PTO u-joints may need dis-assembly and cleaning. Weld something over the torn sheet metal. Paint it. Enjoy!

 

[kthompson]

I would not pass on this cutter, I would run from it! Based upon best I can tell the top link and the hook up has lots for movement and this is a very popular design for the third arm but it is bent heavy to the right of the cutter it looks like. The pto shaft had been worn heavy on the plastic safety tube which may not be an issue but could be sign of damaged pto shaft which is more than $75. The cut left side of the deck is a sign of lowest cost a loose blade bring run for a while (could have been something stuck between the blade and deck but most likely the blade is what cut that deck) but I suspect that what ever push the third arm over pushed the gear box over to the right side raising the left side of the blade into the deck. I would not be the one who hooked the pto shaft up and ran it to 540 rpms....not for it free...

 

[California]

I don't think it shows a loose blade, rather, the perimeter bent, so the sheet metal got down to the level of the blade. Agree, I wouldn't run it at the full 540 rpm either!

 

[MESSMAKER]

Probably worth the money if the gearbox turns. A bit of work with a sledgehammer and 30 minutes of welding along with a few cans of spray paint and it will be good enough. I have seen them in that shape or worse get $200.

 

[Nick359]

Probably worth the money if the gearbox turns. A bit of work with a sledgehammer and 30 minutes of welding along with a few cans of spray paint and it will be good enough. I have seen them in that shape or worse get $200.

I second that. If the gear box is good you can't go wrong for $75. If you have a welder and time you are good to go. If you have a friend with a welder even better. It looks like the blades ran through. If its wasted, you have a bit of work to do. I would buy it if its close to me and the gearbox was solid.

 

[California]

This thread reminds me of the thoughts of member 'farmwithjunk'. Looking at his profile I see he hasn't posted for 5 years. I hope he's ok. He posted often about restoring old equipment for use in his commercial hay mowing business.

 

[RickB]

If the gearbox is free and has some semblance of lube in it and the blade bar/stump jumper is intact I’d be all over it for $75 .

 

[Rmart30]

If the gearbox is free and has some semblance of lube in it and the blade bar/stump jumper is intact I’d be all over it for $75 .

As would I. We buy them fairly regularly for our hunting lease and usually have 2 or 3 sitting around for members to hook too. Its somewhere rocky and with stumps so not somewhere I want to put my $3k + land pride. Lot of members will bring their tractor but not their good cutter.
If we get one, or especially 2 yrs out of one for under $300 we dont complain. We put it off to the side for parts or scrap it.

 

[LD48750]

If the gearbox is free and has some semblance of lube in it and the blade bar/stump jumper is intact I壇 be all over it for $75 .

I agree, it looks to me like it has been USED hard a time or two but survived.
Only real damage I see is where the blade hit the deck & that doesn't really affect function.
It only takes one time hitting a rock, cement block, tree during real use to crease a deck like that.
If the blades don't hit the deck now, I wouldn't worry about it.
For $75 you are buying function not looks.

BTW... My rotary cutter looks worse then that & still works fine.

 

[aczlan]

I agree, it looks to me like it has been USED hard a time or two but survived.
Only real damage I see is where the blade hit the deck & that doesn't really affect function.
It only takes one time hitting a rock, cement block, tree during real use to crease a deck like that.
If the blades don't hit the deck now, I wouldn't worry about it.
For $75 you are buying function not looks.

BTW... My rotary cutter looks worse then that & still works fine.

Yep, for $75 it would have already been on my trailer. BTDT, ended up putting new sides on a $75 mower (the deck was rusted through), the one pictured, I would beat the top down with some wood blocks under it, then weld it shut and call it good.

Aaron Z

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yep, for $75 it would have already been on my trailer. BTDT, ended up putting new sides on a $75 mower (the deck was rusted through), the one pictured, I would beat the top down with some wood blocks under it, then weld it shut and call it good.

Aaron Z

I would do the same thing.

 

[Fallon]

This thread reminds me of the thoughts of member 'farmwithjunk'. Looking at his profile I see he hasn't posted for 5 years. I hope he's ok. He posted often about restoring old equipment for use in his commercial hay mowing business.

Last I heard he had wandered off to some other forums & maybe retired.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Last I heard he had wandered off to some other forums & maybe retired.

I don't think it has been 5 years, but maybe. I thought he had some health problems that he explained on a post and then I never heard from him again.

 

[countrybumpkin]

April 1 2013 was his last log in.

 

[Stubee]

Looks worse than this 6’ hog I brokered a deal for up in Ontario. A friend there bushhogs shooting lanes and bought a new one after beating this one up pretty good. Neighbor by my camp was interested and since they could never link up I took the $75?cash down to the owner, and the neighbor finally picked it up. He said it was quite a bit heavier than he figured on his smallest tractor but got it home and runs it. He’s a logger & raises beef cattle, and wasn’t too familiar with these little contraptions.

The OP hog was in a lot tougher shape than this deal.

 

[4570Man]

I’d buy every $75 cutter that the blades still turned on that I could pile on my 10 ton gooseneck and make a second trip. People think they’re gold around here and it’s pretty much $200 minimum for a similar piece of crap. My grandpa has one that looks that bad and he’s used it for as long as I can remember. He bought a better one a few years ago but never retired the other one.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

For $75 I would pounce on that. Clean it off, change gear box oil, service pto shaft as needed. Sharpen blades and use it in the rough parts of our pastures.

Use the nicer brush hog for the long grass and other that we can pickup for our small livestock. Very worth the effort to change implements for the different jobs.