Wallenstein backhoe?

NewfieDan · Dec 30, 2014

I have been toying with the idea of a backhoe for my BX2360. I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet for a number of reasons, one of which is switching between implements/trailers.

I may have come across a solution. A backhoe by Wallenstein. They seem to mount to a 3pt hitch and have the hydraulics driven by the PTO.

Does anyone out there know anything about them, or have experience with them?

George2615 · Dec 30, 2014

Wallenstein is a good BH. However, you would need to buy or build a subframe to mount it on your BX2360. Any compact or sub compact tractor that uses a BH should have it mounted to a sub frame since a BH puts a lot of stress on the tractor 3 pt. I just bought a used Woods BH750 with a sub frame and PTO pump for my 37HP tractor. The sub frame was made for another tractor so I have to modify it to bolt up to my tractor.

mbohuntr · Dec 30, 2014

George2615 said:
Wallenstein is a good BH. However, you would need to buy or build a subframe to mount it on your BX2360. Any compact or sub compact tractor that uses a BH should have it mounted to a sub frame since a BH puts a lot of stress on the tractor 3 pt. I just bought a used Woods BH750 with a sub frame and PTO pump for my 37HP tractor. The sub frame was made for another tractor so I have to modify it to bolt up to my tractor.

let me know when your ready to part with that attachment as well, I love the snowblower! :laughing:

George2615 · Dec 30, 2014

mbohuntr said:
let me know when your ready to part with that attachment as well, I love the snowblower! :laughing:

Glad the blower is working well for you. I knew I sold it too cheap. I think I sold the 2615 too cheap also, was only on CL a couple days.

rasorbackq · Dec 31, 2014

Newf Dan.... I have a Wallenstein BHwith a 3 point set up. I use it alot in the summer I have had no issues with the hoe I did break the top link bracket on the tractor off only because it was really under sized had a new one built from 3/8 stock and working great now for 3 years.

I have a branson tractor and I know of another guy with the same tractor. He has a subframe with his hoe. Issue he has is the subframe has to be removed to use the 3 point set up for another implement.
So in my case a subframe does me no good as I may change the hoe out 2 times in a day.

NewfieDan · Dec 31, 2014

Rasaorbackq that is exactly my point. I don't want the addition of a subframe. But I also can see Grorge's point about the additional stress on the tractor. I already have a subframe that has to come off whe I switch from the plow/snowblower to the FEL. Another subframe may not be that bad depending on how it attaches. It would still be better than taking off the 3pt hitch to put on the backhoe.

The other question is how would it work in the soil where I live? I am in Newfoundland Canada, known locally as The Rock. When clearing land for a greenhouse earlier I had to use a hammer and chisel to get out some of the rocks. They were about the same size a steering wheel and the ground around them was packed solid. Like digging in a roadway. Or would it be better to use a bigger piece of equipment.

ThomasH · Dec 31, 2014

I would be very careful about mounting a backhoe on a three point. It is almost always the top bracket that breaks, many times along with the rear end housing, as they are not designed to withstand the multiplying of force by having a fulcrum projected out 8 or 10 feet and hundreds or thousands of pounds of force applied via a hydraulic cylinder. All of this force applied to a single top 3 point bracket will break things if you are not *really* careful. And with rocky soil, and the high shock loads that you are going to encounter, I would be surprised if you didn't break something on the tractor. Lets say that you fix the top bracket when it breaks by making a heavier duty one, then the question is what breaks next? Almost certainly it will be what the upper bracket is attached to, almost always the rear end casting.

You can lower the risk somewhat by using small, narrow buckets, but I would careful none the less.

One last thing I will mention is that a well thought out subframe is not very difficult to attach/remove. The one I used to have had the front of the frame that plugged into sockets mounted to front of the tractor and the rear had three bolts on each side. I think the most difficult part of re-attaching was backing up the tractor to the correct point to align the rear mounting bolts. The front of the frame I kept on a stack of 4x6s, so it was kept high enough to fit into the sockets. The trick was to back it up parallel to the backhoe subframe, and that was either trial and error or getting someone to give me signals. It would have been much easier to put one of those auto backup cameras on the back so I could have seen better myself.

94BULLITT · Dec 31, 2014

I think you would be best off to sell your tractor and get a BX25D. You know everything is going to work right on the BX25D. The fit may not be as nice on the wallenstein.

Carl_NH · Dec 31, 2014

94BULLITT said:
I think you would be best off to sell your tractor and get a BX25D. You know everything is going to work right on the BX25D. The fit may not be as nice on the wallenstein.

Definitely the best solution - trade up!

I had a 3PT BH on my L185DT, BH built by Kubota too, and the top link was the weak link and we have rocks similar to you in NS.

With the integrated BH on the BX25 and on my B21 it was a night and day difference in ease of use and control.

rasorbackq · Dec 31, 2014

NewfieDan said:
Rasaorbackq that is exactly my point. I don't want the addition of a subframe. But I also can see Grorge's point about the additional stress on the tractor. I already have a subframe that has to come off whe I switch from the plow/snowblower to the FEL. Another subframe may not be that bad depending on how it attaches. It would still be better than taking off the 3pt hitch to put on the backhoe.

The other question is how would it work in the soil where I live? I am in Newfoundland Canada, known locally as The Rock. When clearing land for a greenhouse earlier I had to use a hammer and chisel to get out some of the rocks. They were about the same size a steering wheel and the ground around them was packed solid. Like digging in a roadway. Or would it be better to use a bigger piece of equipment.

Neffie dan..... I often have to dig out rocks that large and packed together Hardest part is to get the teeth in between . I like my BH bigtime.
I built a manual thumb for $100 because many rocks I play with are larger then the bucket.