Walmart Supertech oil
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Bates
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( $30 a shot testing lab will never convince me that it is. )</font>
Spending $20 to $30 dollars to test $6 worth of oil is silly.
Oil testing labs have a racket going. A few parts per million of something isn't going to send your engine to the junk pile any time soon. As far as filtration is concerned, it's been proven that particles smaller than 40 microns cause no engine damage. Stressing over maximum filtration is silly, too.
Even the cheapest "SM" dino oil sold today is far better than any premium oil sold 15 or 20 years ago. All one needs to do is select the highest rated API oil, pick a reasonable drain interval and relax.
Spending $20 to $30 dollars to test $6 worth of oil is silly.
Oil testing labs have a racket going. A few parts per million of something isn't going to send your engine to the junk pile any time soon. As far as filtration is concerned, it's been proven that particles smaller than 40 microns cause no engine damage. Stressing over maximum filtration is silly, too.
Even the cheapest "SM" dino oil sold today is far better than any premium oil sold 15 or 20 years ago. All one needs to do is select the highest rated API oil, pick a reasonable drain interval and relax.
SkyPup
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Actually, the particles in the 2-5 micron range are the ones that do the most damage..
Sully2
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Actually, the particles in the 2-5 micron range are the ones that do the most damage.. )</font>
If dual fuel filters ..one being 10 micron and the second being 2 micron to keep fuel clean to prevent FUEL INJECTOR damage is sufficient...Im about as worried about 2-5 micron "stuff" in my oil..almost as badly as why I didnt win the super lotto!
There is POOR maintanence; GOOD maintainence; EXCELLENT maintainence and then there is being **** about almost everything!
If dual fuel filters ..one being 10 micron and the second being 2 micron to keep fuel clean to prevent FUEL INJECTOR damage is sufficient...Im about as worried about 2-5 micron "stuff" in my oil..almost as badly as why I didnt win the super lotto!
There is POOR maintanence; GOOD maintainence; EXCELLENT maintainence and then there is being **** about almost everything!
SkyPup
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As I previously stated, the particles in the 2-5 micron range do the most damage.
Bates
Bronze Member
Particles in the 2-5 micron range easily stay suspended in the oil film between bearings, crankshafts, piston skirts, cylinder walls etc. without ever making (forceful) metal to metal contact.
Oil clearances are in the thousanths of inches. A 2 micron particle is a non-issue, no?
Oil clearances are in the thousanths of inches. A 2 micron particle is a non-issue, no?
SkyPup
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Wishful thinking.... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Hydrodynamic oil boudaries are 1-2 microns, NOT thousands of an inch.....
FYI, in a diesel engine, the soot particles are 1-5um and they act like sandpaper.
Just another good reason for an oil analysis because if your soot concentration gets much abouve 1% you'll have major wear problems.
Hydrodynamic oil boudaries are 1-2 microns, NOT thousands of an inch.....
FYI, in a diesel engine, the soot particles are 1-5um and they act like sandpaper.
Just another good reason for an oil analysis because if your soot concentration gets much abouve 1% you'll have major wear problems.
kenmac
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You may think you are using good oil as I did .An oil test tells you how good your oil really is.
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Actually, the particles in the 2-5 micron range are the ones that do the most damage.. )</font>
Please clarify.
Most damage to what?
What kind of damage?
How are you quantifing this assumption?
What's you comparison? Particle for particle? gram for gram? hour for hour?
Would you rather have sand in your engine, than 2-5 micron particles?
I'm guessing what you really meant to say is they can cause problems beacuse they pass through the filter.
Please clarify.
Most damage to what?
What kind of damage?
How are you quantifing this assumption?
What's you comparison? Particle for particle? gram for gram? hour for hour?
Would you rather have sand in your engine, than 2-5 micron particles?
I'm guessing what you really meant to say is they can cause problems beacuse they pass through the filter.
Bates
Bronze Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Wishful thinking.... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Hydrodynamic oil boudaries are 1-2 microns, NOT thousands of an inch.....
FYI, in a diesel engine, the soot particles are 1-5um and they act like sandpaper.
)</font>
Well, maybe, but how much REAL WORLD damage does this cause? Over the road Diesel trucks run 750,000+ miles between overhauls with sooty, black crankcase oil.
As I said, my old Toyota Tercel ran 320,000+ miles with ~5k
oil changes of crappy old "SF" oil; whatever brand was on sale with house brand oil filters. The oil was always dark brown to black by the time I changed it. The engine never had any internal problems. It had good compression. No major leaks, only seepage. The car's body had cancer, The seats were shot. Bottom line, the rest of the car wore out before the engine. I could have fixed it, but I was simply tired of the car after awhile.
I don't want to get into an import vs. domestic discussion here, but some engines are better engineered than others.
Some engines are engineered so well that extra virgin olive oil could be used in the crankcase (I'm joking).
Testing labs have people scared into thinking that a TBN that's off by a few numbers or a few PPM of wear metals means that a person's engine will self-destruct at any instant.
No wonder they call it oil ANALysis. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Hydrodynamic oil boudaries are 1-2 microns, NOT thousands of an inch.....
FYI, in a diesel engine, the soot particles are 1-5um and they act like sandpaper.
)</font>
Well, maybe, but how much REAL WORLD damage does this cause? Over the road Diesel trucks run 750,000+ miles between overhauls with sooty, black crankcase oil.
As I said, my old Toyota Tercel ran 320,000+ miles with ~5k
oil changes of crappy old "SF" oil; whatever brand was on sale with house brand oil filters. The oil was always dark brown to black by the time I changed it. The engine never had any internal problems. It had good compression. No major leaks, only seepage. The car's body had cancer, The seats were shot. Bottom line, the rest of the car wore out before the engine. I could have fixed it, but I was simply tired of the car after awhile.
I don't want to get into an import vs. domestic discussion here, but some engines are better engineered than others.
Some engines are engineered so well that extra virgin olive oil could be used in the crankcase (I'm joking).
Testing labs have people scared into thinking that a TBN that's off by a few numbers or a few PPM of wear metals means that a person's engine will self-destruct at any instant.
No wonder they call it oil ANALysis. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif