Wards Powr-Kraft 230amp stick welder

[California]

Anybody recognise this? I just got it and have a lot of beginner's questions!

The plate indicates it will pull as much line current as a Lincoln AC-225 (50 amps) and output AC only. Low range ends at 175 amps. High range is up to 230 amps and that terminal says 'E6013 Electrodes Only'. Would that mean lower starting voltage?

Lots of questions: What thickness will it weld if run from a 30 amp outlet? If I don't set the slider past mid-scale will that still trip a 30 amp breaker as it starts?

Can you throttle this thing down to weld exhaust pipe?

Can you cut with it? What is the carbon arc good for?

And most important, is this as good a welder as a modern AC unit? The windings look huge. Its heavy, well over 100 lbs.

Next step planned is to dig out my old Lincoln 'Arc Welding Lessons for Home or Shop', buy a modern auto-darken hood, and see how to adapt from this strange 50 amp plug to my outlet. It may be simpler to put a clothes dryer cord on it.

Any advice welcome!

 

[Deerlope]

I have had and still have one of those for over 40 years. Doing exhaust pipe will be a little tricky if not impossible. A carbon arc is good for heating and not cutting. I have welded 1/8 up to 1/2" very well. I do think that mine is a little older. It will run on a 30 amp circuit, how long depend on where you got it set. Mine has always been on a 50 amp. It will run any AC rod up to 3/16" straight poliarity very well. At the time I bought mine it was said that 20th Century was making them for Ward's. Does yours have a cooling fan in it? The windings are heavy and that is 1 reason they last a long time. You don't have to stick with 6013 rod, any mild steel AC straight politarity will do.

 

[California]

Yes, it has a cooling fan. I see 'Model 66W' so that could be the first year for this model.

 

[Deerlope]

I think that I bought mine aroud 65 or66, The slide on mine is just a knob that is loosened, slide then tightened. I done a powerful lot of welding with that little machine. Mine ground cable is hard wired into it(no plug-in). Also the lowest mine will go is 40 amps on the low scale.

 

[Bully]

Hey California, your dimming my lights /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Gary.

 

[Highbeam]

Almost all arc welding is done at 25 volts regardless of amperage. Sooooo, the 30 amp 220 volt breaker will provide 6600 watts of power and dividing 6600 watts by 25 volts gets you 264 amps. If you remove say 10% for inefficiency and the little cooling fan you are down to 238 amps of welding out of that 30 amp circuit. Plenty, plug it in and go for it.

Even at 40 amps and with a tiny rod, welding exhaust is very difficult. It will take some practice, will not be pretty, may not be strong, will likely be leaky, but in a pinch it can be done.

With mutltiple passes you can weld big thick stuff. I welded 1" barstock onto the bulldozer blade this weekend on the 225 amp setting. It just takes more than one pass to get a weld as strong as the material.

The older and heavier the welder, the better it is. Seems true with stick welders.

 

[California]

Deerlope, Highbeam,

Thank you for your excellent advice!

I stopped by Airgas today for supplies and they checked the unit for me. It welds fine (in the hands of an experienced welder) and they said it shows litle use - the rodholder is probably the original one and looks nearly new. I got the welder at an estate sale and they told me 'Dad' bought it for hobby use then never used it after the first year. Sometimes buying used equipment is worth the gamble. I'm going to have fun with this.


</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hey California, your dimming my lights -Gary.)</font>

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I'll try the carbon arc gadget this evening then you'll be able to see everything just fine! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[California]

Followup - Over the weekend I got the welder plugged in and started practice with 1/8 rod.

It works surprisingly well. I'm getting penetration to at least 1/2 the rod diameter and the welds don't break easily using a chisel. The Lincoln book I cited above is excellent. It is old (postwar) but it focuses on farm repair and fabrication and it emphasizes good technique. It's right on target for my needs at this stage.

I also downloaded and printed the manual for a modern Hobart AC welder that is a close match to my old Wards welder. The pictures of good/bad welds in that book are excellent.

I've been reading welding threads here on TBN and found an excellent one that was started by Mith. "Give me your welding experiences". He received a lot of excellent advice and that thread has become an encyclopedia for the begining welder. One of the posters there even has a Montgomery Ward welder like this one! If I have a question I'll ask it in that thread rather than duplicating that material here. Again, thanks to everyone for the good advice.


Addendum - Here is a recent TBN post showing several excellent welding discussion boards.

 

[ARKFLASH]

can any body tell me where i can buy the ends for the cable that pug in the high , low and the ground that you very much you can email me at vestersteele@yahoo.com have a great holiday vester steele

 

[Tractor Seabee]

can any body tell me where i can buy the ends for the cable that pug in the high , low and the ground that you very much you can email me at vestersteele@yahoo.com have a great holiday vester steele

You should be able to get them at any good welding supply. Those tapered plugs are still used today. If they don't stock them they can order them.

Ron

 

[mbohuntr]

Here is some helpful info:

6013 broken down means... (60) 60,000lbs tensile strength, (1) is (I think) the positions you can use it on... ie flat, verticle, overhead. (3) is the coating on the rod.

Some coatings are... (4) is iron powder (E7024 rod), and usually ran flat, (8) is low hydrogen (E7018) and it's been too long to remember the others.

So... E7018 = 70000lbs, all position, low hydrogen coated.

A good starting point for current is to take the rod value (fractional such as 1/8") and convert it to a decimal and .125 becomes 125 amps. This is only a starting point because most machines aren't calibrated, and might be way off on the actual current.

Look in tractor supply for rods, and only get rods approved for AC voltages. For dirty, rusty painted metals, 6011 is hard to beat. Slowly move the rod foward and backwards pausing on the back stroke to create a scaled appearing weld that looks like scales. ((((((((((((((((((((((((((( (left to right)

Have fun, and do not weld on sealed pipes, cans, or any fuel containers as all will explode and KILL you.

 

[k0ua]

Have fun, and do not weld on sealed pipes, cans, or any fuel containers as all will explode and KILL you.

Or wheel rims with tires still mounted (Tire Pyrolysis) Ka-Boom!

James K0UA

 

[mbohuntr]

Ok... You got me... I noticed all the views and then checked the posting date

 

[SUman]

I have a wards 23 welder that I have used about 20 year ago. It was a good welder. Now it has been dismantled and I need a copy of a manual to put it back together. Do you happen to have a manual?

 

[SUman]

I think that I bought mine aroud 65 or66, The slide on mine is just a knob that is loosened, slide then tightened. I done a powerful lot of welding with that little machine. Mine ground cable is hard wired into it(no plug-in). Also the lowest mine will go is 40 amps on the low scale.

Bought mine around the same time. Need a copy of the manual or a copy of the electrical schematic to re-assemble the welder. Can you help?

 

[Dismounted]

I have the exact same welder. I have been searching for a manual for it, but have come up empty. I am a rookie welder, but, the only way to get better is to do. Besides, my grinder can help me fix many mistakes. I have a wire feed, and the practice improves your skill has proven quite effective, as I am getting good with it. It just is not heavy enough to weld on my bucket and implements. I am considering taking a welding class at my local trade school to assist me. If any one knows of a site that I can get the manual, please post or email me a link. Thanks.

 

[George2615]

I have the exact same welder. I have been searching for a manual for it, but have come up empty. I am a rookie welder, but, the only way to get better is to do. Besides, my grinder can help me fix many mistakes. I have a wire feed, and the practice improves your skill has proven quite effective, as I am getting good with it. It just is not heavy enough to weld on my bucket and implements. I am considering taking a welding class at my local trade school to assist me. If any one knows of a site that I can get the manual, please post or email me a link. Thanks.

I think the welder was made by Century for Wards. Century is now Lincoln. Century also made Solar brand welders of which I have one. I contacted Lincoln with my welder info and they emailed me a pdf manual.
There is also a site to download E manuals but you have to sign up. Don't know about the site so not sure if they are free or have to buy.
You can also contact the OP. He got a similar manual from Hobart.

Wards Powr Kraft 230 Manual.pdf

 

[Dftodd]

I may have a manual for the Montgomery ward power kraft 230. Picked one up from my father in law last weekend. He keeps all the books on everything. He was gonna dig through his files and have it for me the next time I see him