Warranty issue dispute with Kubota - Advice anyone

[shooterdon]

We tend to think everyone has some mechanical skills and common sense. It is easy to be judgmental on something we know a lot about...plus it makes us feel smart and superior...human nature.

I suspect the OP does no differently with his car, lawn mower etc. They are things to get jobs done and he has no mechanical talent/interest.

My BIL was having trouble cutting 2x4's with his circular saw. I came over and he had blade mounted backwards. I "helped" him finish his project before he hurt himself. An absolute dummy on stuff like that. He "has" to trade his car every 3 years....but he is a genius at investing. Has not worked in over 20 years and has a $800k+ Condo and a second home in Florida.

 

[LouNY]

I've looked and looked and looked, for a place to check the water on my tractor, I just can't seem to find a place to check for it!

SR

It should be in the jug tied up by the seat in easy reach of the operator :drink:

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Not a Deutz, so what is it?

SR

 

[3930dave]

Glancing through the thread, saw some references to full overflow tanks, and empty rads.

It would be a rare coolant system where that is "normal". Fill system, then pressure-test should be the first check, as coolant-out/air-in is likely happening somewhere it shouldn't be.....

^ Might have been covered all ready, but worth repeating......

I've only had 2 engines so far with low coolant (one old engine with factory casting plug at top of head leaking, the other was a newer vehicle with an air-bubble/lock in the system after I changed the coolant). In both cases, the Temp gauge went High. Actually 3, now that I think of it...... had one of the very few shops I trust change a water pump on a car while I was there (old-school front mount pump) and had another air bubble with High reading Temp gauge.

Not saying all will do that, just that I had 3 for 3 Temperature Gauges going to High with Low Coolant on my equipment.

Rgds, D.

 

[RickB]

Glancing through the thread, saw some references to full overflow tanks, and empty rads.

It would be a rare coolant system where that is "normal". Fill system, then pressure-test should be the first check, as coolant-out/air-in is likely happening somewhere it shouldn't be.....

^ Might have been covered all ready, but worth repeating......

I've only had 2 engines so far with low coolant (one old engine with factory casting plug at top of head leaking, the other was a newer vehicle with an air-bubble/lock in the system after I changed the coolant). In both cases, the Temp gauge went High. Actually 3, now that I think of it...... had one of the very few shops I trust change a water pump on a car while I was there (old-school front mount pump) and had another air bubble with High reading Temp gauge.

Not saying all will do that, just 3 for 3 in my cases.....

Rgds, D.

One more time.... If the cooling system is compromised (which the OP has written) the system cannot draw fluid from the recovery tank back into the pressurized circuit.
And most coolant temp sending units will not react to hot air.

 

[TBone]

"everytime"....before you start your tractors and vehicles you visually check the oil and water levels?
While it may be a good idea, I have NEVER before heard of ANYONE actually doing anything even similar to that since the 40's, when gas stations did check the oil every time you filled up.

I don't check my oil or water level on my truck or cars "everytime" I start them up but I do my tractor, always have. Now you've heard of several of us that do that. Note: I was born in the 40's and also drove trucks most of my life.

 

[3930dave]

One more time.... If the cooling system is compromised (which the OP has written) the system cannot draw fluid from the recovery tank back into the pressurized circuit.

Depending on system design, and fault location, it may, or may not draw. Much of the time systems will empty the de-gas bottle, but I agree, you shouldn't bet your engine's life on it.

Most of what I was attempting to communicate was Temperature Gauge behaviour, that I'd directly observed in 3 cases.

Rgds, D.

 

[LouNY]

I have seen a few chevy pickups that when the radiator got low the temperature gauge on the engine actually read lower then normal,
the only saving grace was that in the winter the heater output also diminished so people would check the recovery bottle and then the radiator,
once it was filled the heater worked as did the temperature gauge.

 

[4570Man]

I have seen a few chevy pickups that when the radiator got low the temperature gauge on the engine actually read lower then normal,
the only saving grace was that in the winter the heater output also diminished so people would check the recovery bottle and then the radiator,
once it was filled the heater worked as did the temperature gauge.

I blew the radiator hose off a 2002 Chevy which pretty quickly drained the radiator. It maintained enough water in the block that the temp gauge still worked. That and the steam boiling out didn’t raise any red flags.

 

[4570Man]

We tend to think everyone has some mechanical skills and common sense. It is easy to be judgmental on something we know a lot about...plus it makes us feel smart and superior...human nature.

.

The OP clearly isn’t very mechanically inclined. That doesn’t make it Kubotas fault. Insurance pays for screwups that were no fault of theirs. Warranty doesn’t.