Comparison weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage

   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #1  

UncleAl

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2003
Messages
143
Location
Statesville, NC
Tractor
'24 BX23
I'm looking at several options for a new tractor.
<font color="blue">TC33D </font> versus <font color="orange"> L3130</font> versus <font color="orange">B2910</font>. I anticipate probably 90% of seat time will go to mowing, the other 10% for loader. Both dealers fill the R4's for free. I know that heavier is better for loader weight, but I feel that the loaders available with the respective tractors will do more than I will ask of them, so I am looking solely at mowing weight.

Published weight specs are as follows: (tractor + mower, not counting additional weight from R4's) TC33D: 2949 lbs, L3130: 3768 lbs, B2910: 2111 lbs. Can anyone comment on the yard tear-up factor of more weight? Should I forego the filling of the tires and just rely on the ballast box that I intend to add anyway for loader work? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I also want to weigh in on the plastic versus steel issue. Anybody have any comments on longterm reliability of the plastic fenders, etc of the Boomer? I'm concerned about stress cracks at boltholes from constant longterm vibration. I've seen it in other plastics, a concern with Boomer? Interestingly, the local Kubota salesman says he used to sell for NH and the local NH salesman says he used to sell for Kubota. They both say their product is better (big surprise!)
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #2  
Been there. I have a L4350 that weighs in at around 4000. Just driving over the grass more than a few times damages the grass to a noticable degree. Better plan on long slow turns with a big one to keep from ripping the grass. That said, you will be glad you have the extra tractor if you move any dirt.

My solution, keep the tractor and buy a dedicated mowing machine. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #3  
I use my TC-33D with RFM7200 for mowing and it's VERY VERY wet now The only place it affects the lawn is where there is water actually standing even turning doesn't damage the grass. The tires are not loaded yet and now I'm considering not having them filled.

Since you're going to use a ballast box anyway I would try it without having the tires filled. You can always fill them later.

Either way you go I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #4  
90% mowing? Then I'd go with the lighter tractor. And if you've always going to have a counterweight on the rear, then I'd skip the tire loading. Just one person's opinion and what I'd do. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #5  
<font color="blue"> I anticipate probably 90% of seat time will go to mowing, the other 10% for loader. </font>
At 90% mowing, I'd vote for a dedicated mowing machine.

Compare what kind of garden tractor/mower combination you can get for what you pay for a mmm on any of the tractors you're considering. Most mid mount mowers for a CUT run from $2,000 to $2,500. For a few dollars more, you can get a new garden tractor with a deck. For the same price as a mmm, you could get a used combination garden tractor/mower combo.
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #6  
For 90% mowing I think I would go with R3 turfs whatever you get. My tractor is very heavy (#5200) and the ground is very wet (as about everywhere) The R4's really chew the lawn up if I'm not very careful. The turfs would not be as good for the loader work, but I think you would be happier overall. If you don't intend on doing any heavy loader work, you might be happy with a BX2200. I think it would certainly be the best machine for mowing. JMHO
Pacesetter
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #7  
Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

I have a B2710 with loaded turfs and have no problems with the turf ripping up. My last tractor was a B8200 with unloaded turfs. The loaded tires seem much more stable on slopes and I find I use 4WD. less. If you are going to do 90% cutting of the lawn, you might want to think about getting turfs instead of the R4's. I have a friend who got the R4's on his B2710 and now wishes he got the turfs. He is having a problem with it ripping up the new sod in the yard. His tires are not loaded and he got the R4's to plow with but thinks the turfs would have done just as well.
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #8  
You say 90% mowing? Then you need a lighter tractor, such large tractors cannot help but destroy your lawn. Maybe get turfs but I still think you don't need such a large tractor for mowing. I get by with R4 tires on my 2410 cuz it is clay soil and I stay off it when it is damp. If this were a soft sandy soil I would need turfs. I think what you saw with "other" plastics you will see on blue plastic. Good luck with whatever you decide. J
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #9  
<font color="blue"> Can anyone comment on the yard tear-up factor of more weight? </font>

Sure we can /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I've got a TC18. 1,600 # tractor + 400 # for 60" MMM = 2,000#. With Loaded R4's (adds 3-400#) I was tearing up the lawn. I have sandy/silty loam. After living with it for a year, I inquired at my dealer about Turfs. He had some "take offs" in stock & made me a heck of a deal on them. The unloaded turfs are a HUGE improvement as far as "tear up" factor. They have spun out on occasion, but only in the wettest parts of the lawn - right near the wetlands (stream).

So you can guess that my vote for 90% mowing is UNLOADED turfs.

There is a tradeoff however. With my wimpy 7106 loader (600# capacity) With the loaded tires, I only had to add ballast to the rear for the heaviest of loads. With the unloaded turfs, I have to hook up an implement for all loader use. I usually use my 60" aerator (350#) with 560# of cement blocks on it. The turfs do squat with the aerator on the back & a full load in the front, but not so much as to worry me. I suggest a test drive at the dealership. Find a Machine with turfs on it & a loader. Fill the loader up with a heavy load & see how the front tires handle it.

<font color="blue">Interestingly, the local Kubota salesman says he used to sell for NH and the local NH salesman says he used to sell for Kubota. They both say their product is better (big surprise!) </font>

My dealer sells both - says the new holland is slightly easier to work on - other than that buyer's choice = which color does your wife prefer /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. I do notice that Kubota packs some extra horsepower into smaller machines - great for mowing /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Good luck & Happy shopping.
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #10  
<font color="blue"> At 90% mowing, I'd vote for a dedicated mowing machine. </font>

With 4 acres of finish mowing to do (as stated in his bio, not in the original post), do you think he might like the wide deck he would get with whaver color tractor he chooses rather than a small garden tractor (if he can find some turf-friendly tires)?
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thank you guys for all your input, I knew I could count on you. I already have a "dedicated" mowing machine, a 30+ year old PowerKing with a 4' belly mower. Except for the R1's, a great mower, but only that. It's getting to the point where I spend about an hour patching it up for every 4-5 hours I mow. It (and the other PowerKing I have) would make great restoration projects, if I had the time. I really want something new, something that hopefully will cover both functions well, mowing & occasional loader work.

A 6' deck may be too much for my yard. I have about 5 dozen trees in about 4 acres, 6' deck + side chute wouldn't fit through a couple of spots.

Thanks especially for the mention of the BX family, it's really got me thinking. For what looks like similar money, with the Bx22 I would get a 5' deck, an adequate loader and a backhoe to boot. Early on, I had dismissed it as being too small, now I'm not so sure. Hmm, decisions, decisions... guess I've got some more phone calls and dealer visits to do before the end of the month (this is really fun, but my wife thinks I'm obsessing)

I have another thought if any of the factory guys are listening. I buy alot of computer stuff; motherboards, components of all types. I have always been able to download a copy of the owner's manual and other technical stuff for whatever I'm looking for from the manufacturer's webpage. To be able to do this with tractors and implements sure would make some of this digging around easier, and make for more knowledgable calls to the dealerships, saving those busy salesguys time as well. To me, this would represent a real plus in the customer service arena. (Just my 2 cents worth.)
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #12  
Yeah, I think a BX22/2200 would be a good choice /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. They are great little tractors and very impressive lawnmowers. There are machines that mow as well or better but NONE of them can shred the ground with a boxblade or make quick work of a dump truck load of gravel or dirt like these subcompacts can. I assume the same can be said for the JD2210 etc. J
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #13  
<font color="blue"> With 4 acres of finish mowing to do (as stated in his bio, not in the original post), do you think he might like the wide deck he would get with whaver color tractor he chooses rather than a small garden tractor (if he can find some turf-friendly tires)? </font>
Four acres is a lot of mowing!

Another foot on the mower (60" vs 48") would reduce seat time for sure! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #14  
UncleAl,

<font color="blue"> Four acres is a lot of mowing! </font> Amen!

<font color="blue"> Another foot on the mower (60" vs 48") would reduce seat time for sure! </font> I subscribe to the "All seat time is good, but some is better than others" philosophy. Is sounds like maybe Mike does too.

Sometimes when I park my tractor, I wish there was more daylight, more time, or more to do. Sometimes, I'm glad to get out of the seat. Most of the time when I'm glad to get out of the seat, it's after mowing.

Mowing around trees is definitely the most tedious part of the job. If I had <font color="blue"> 5 dozen trees in about 4 acres,</font> and a <font color="blue"> 6' deck + side chute wouldn't fit through a couple of spots</font>, I would make a "landscaping adjustment" with a chainsaw so a 6' deck would fit. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Believe me, with 5 dozen trees in 4 acres you'll get used to a couple fewer trees. Either that, or get a push mower for the tight spots and go with a good sized deck for the rest. Another consideration with so many trees is turning radius. To be able to mow around a tree in one pass is something you will appreciate. It's just a thought.

OkieG
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #15  
<font color="blue">Is sounds like maybe Mike does too. </font>
Yep, mowing is a chore. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

<font color="blue">I would make a "landscaping adjustment" with a chainsaw so a 6' deck would fit. </font>
We think alike! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

With that many trees to mow around, I would seriously consider a ZTR. Even with a mmm and SuperSteer, that many trees would be a major pain. It's be cheaper to use a chainsaw!
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage
  • Thread Starter
#16  
OkieG,
Points well taken. CFO would balk at removing trees, she's always looking for more! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Also to consider, my land is not very smooth, lots of dips and bumpy spots. I'm concerned that a wider deck would be more prone to scalp. Even the 4' MMM does in spots. Big part of the reason I want something that will move dirt as well as mow, to make yard more mower friendly, in addition to other projects. I considered ZTR's, not enough utility, and I'm only allowed one purchase by CFO.

What about time to mow? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif The old PK is good for about an acre an hour. (in middle gear, because high gear beats you to death and bogs down too easy) What could I expect with 5' and more power?

UncleAl
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #17  
UncleAl,

<font color="blue"> I considered ZTR's, not enough utility, and I'm only allowed one purchase by CFO. </font>

If you "Round-up" for a foot or two around each tree base it will do at least three things for you:
1 It will make the SuperSteer Mike talked about a feasible option for a single pass around a tree.
2. It will provide a margin of safety for the tree trunk from damage by the mower deck.
3. The weed eater will spend more time resting in the garage.

Maybe it's just me, but with all those advantages, the small bare spot at the base of each tree really doesn't look so bad. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Also, as your loader begins filling in the low spots, a wider deck might be appreciated more than the scalped spots you suffer in the meantime. Once again, just a thought.

OkieG
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #18  
Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

Just don't get the roundup on the tree bark or exposed roots javascript:void(0)
/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage #19  
Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

Interesting. Have you tryed moving snow w/ the turf tires yet? jimg
 
   / weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage
  • Thread Starter
#20  
OkieG,
I looked at supersteer. I like the idea, but it's only available on class 2 boomers & up. Getting back into the weight thing again...
I have done the roundup thing before. Where I live, if you are diligent in keeping up with this, the grass gets replaced by a nice ring of moss which keeps the grass at bay. The moss stays green yearround and never gets tall enough to require mowing.
At present, I only weedeat a couple of times each year, relying on my mower to keep it fairly close to the trees. We occasionally trim with a push mower. Takes about 3 hrs to make the push mower or weedeater rounds on 4 acres (achers! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
 

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