SpringHollow
Elite Member
14.5 - 14.8 would be about normal for my tractor - high but nots as high as before I replaced the alternator and was popping breakers.
Ken
Ken
Weird electrical puzzler - breaker pops, the PT1850 runs better until it's shut off
- Thread starter MikeOConnor
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/ Weird electrical puzzler - breaker pops, the PT1850 runs better until it's shut off
#52
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MikeOConnor
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Ah! Tell me more about what got you to the point of replacing the alternator, Ken. Similar events to mine?
Soundguy
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agreed.
14.4 is a very standard vreg module. I have seen 14.7 and 15.2
My guess here?
There is ( was ) a load that has now expired. the load was enough to pop the breaker and keep charge voltage pulled down. Now this load has finally failed open.. and is thus no longer a load.
was the thermostat a module and was it previously hooked up?
IE.. I think the 'marginal' circuit 'somewhere' has finally failed open.
I'd love to see an o-scope of that alt output.
while rare.. I can see a partial failure of the triode causing this.. but .. with the data available.. impossible to guess on that route.
14.4 is a very standard vreg module. I have seen 14.7 and 15.2
My guess here?
There is ( was ) a load that has now expired. the load was enough to pop the breaker and keep charge voltage pulled down. Now this load has finally failed open.. and is thus no longer a load.
was the thermostat a module and was it previously hooked up?
IE.. I think the 'marginal' circuit 'somewhere' has finally failed open.
I'd love to see an o-scope of that alt output.
while rare.. I can see a partial failure of the triode causing this.. but .. with the data available.. impossible to guess on that route.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
ponytug
Super Member
The Deutz uses a number of Torx head bolts. I would recommend Torx sockets over wrenches, as some of them need to be tightened to specified torque settings. Just a thought...
All the best,
Peter
All the best,
Peter
ponytug
Super Member
Mike,
One other thought: you might want to double check is that the battery cables, and that their respective ends and mounting bolts are clean, tightly fastened, and not internally corroded. An intermittent ground can cause lots of headaches and popped breakers.
Best of luck,
Peter
One other thought: you might want to double check is that the battery cables, and that their respective ends and mounting bolts are clean, tightly fastened, and not internally corroded. An intermittent ground can cause lots of headaches and popped breakers.
Best of luck,
Peter
/ Weird electrical puzzler - breaker pops, the PT1850 runs better until it's shut off
#57
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MikeOConnor
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- Two Power-Trac 1850s (preferred for mowing and grapple-bucket clearing type work on really steep hills). Kubota M680 for snowblowing, grading, bucket.
Good stuff all... I can buy the "failed open" theory. And my symptoms now mirror Ken's, so I'm feeling better about dropping in the new alternator.
I've checked the battery connections and think they're in pretty good shape -- but it won't hurt to pull the non-battery ends and clean em up. On the list for today.
The thermostat is indeed a module and has been disconnected (as has the fan) since early on. I cycled all the accessory switches on the dash looking for that failed-open suspect. Haven't found it yet, but I noticed that the temperature gauge is unusually low, so that's a possibility that I can check once the engine runs long enough to nudge it.
The torx box wrench is coming this afternoon and tonight's project will be dropping in the new alternator. I gotta use a box wrench on a couple of those bolts because the shroud fouls the sockets. Should be able to use socket/torque wrench on most of them. The nice thing is that this is just shrouds and exterior housings on the engine, not terribly torque-critical applications.
I've attached a picture of the alternator showing the connections that I took to remind me where the wires go. UPDATE: and I added a picture of the shiny new one too. These alternators are made out of unicorn hair and diamonds, btw.
I've checked the battery connections and think they're in pretty good shape -- but it won't hurt to pull the non-battery ends and clean em up. On the list for today.
The thermostat is indeed a module and has been disconnected (as has the fan) since early on. I cycled all the accessory switches on the dash looking for that failed-open suspect. Haven't found it yet, but I noticed that the temperature gauge is unusually low, so that's a possibility that I can check once the engine runs long enough to nudge it.
The torx box wrench is coming this afternoon and tonight's project will be dropping in the new alternator. I gotta use a box wrench on a couple of those bolts because the shroud fouls the sockets. Should be able to use socket/torque wrench on most of them. The nice thing is that this is just shrouds and exterior housings on the engine, not terribly torque-critical applications.
I've attached a picture of the alternator showing the connections that I took to remind me where the wires go. UPDATE: and I added a picture of the shiny new one too. These alternators are made out of unicorn hair and diamonds, btw.
Last edited:
Soundguy
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Yup.. in lieu of a 'red flag', if all the other circuits check out and are operational, the next major component is the alt itself. And there are possibilities of internal failures that, while rare, could account for odd behavior like this.
One thing that comes to mind was excessive charge rate. IE.. over 20, but under 50 ( as the 50a fuse did not pop ), but the 20a breaker WAS opening.
One thing that comes to mind was excessive charge rate. IE.. over 20, but under 50 ( as the 50a fuse did not pop ), but the 20a breaker WAS opening.
ponytug
Super Member
Yes, they are pricey little items. Make sure that you keep the B+ and D+ connections straight.
I just mention the battery cables and connections because a common cause of death for alternators is an open battery circuit.
Looking at your photo, it seems to me that one or more of your diodes is fried. Look between the three windings, the plastic looks decidedly charred.
All the best,
Peter
I just mention the battery cables and connections because a common cause of death for alternators is an open battery circuit.
Looking at your photo, it seems to me that one or more of your diodes is fried. Look between the three windings, the plastic looks decidedly charred.
All the best,
Peter
Soundguy
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agreed. and a failure in the trio is what I was lenaing on. I think one was shorted, and is now open. 