Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

[hilld]

Eddie,

TDC is both on the compression and the exhaust stoke. Timing is set on the compression stroke, you will have to determine on which stoke it is on. Both the valves will be closed during the compression stoke, if you can't see the valves due to the fact the head is removed, look at the camshaft and make sure none of the lobes are pushing up a lifter.

Hope that explanation helps a little.

Derek

 

[hilld]

Eddie,

TDC is both on the compression and the exhaust stoke. Timing is set on the compression stroke, you will have to determine on which stoke it is on. Both the valves will be closed during the compression stoke, if you can't see the valves due to the fact the head is removed, look at the camshaft and make sure none of the lobes are pushing up a lifter.

Hope that explanation helps a little.

Derek

 

[IH3444]

Eddie, it's not a bad idea to inspect the crankshaft journals now also, and maybe measure the journals. I wouldn't be too worried if a few are worn .001 to .0015. You may want to also polish the journals also with a very fine polishing cloth. Just clean the journal, and eyeball it for any deep scratches. I'm sure that you are fine. Besure to keep those rod caps matched. Does the manual ask for new connecting rod bolts/nuts to be installed? Sometimes just new rod bolt nuts are needed. You should look for a manual if you don't have one. It will help with timing set up, and valve adjustment.

 

[IH3444]

Eddie, it's not a bad idea to inspect the crankshaft journals now also, and maybe measure the journals. I wouldn't be too worried if a few are worn .001 to .0015. You may want to also polish the journals also with a very fine polishing cloth. Just clean the journal, and eyeball it for any deep scratches. I'm sure that you are fine. Besure to keep those rod caps matched. Does the manual ask for new connecting rod bolts/nuts to be installed? Sometimes just new rod bolt nuts are needed. You should look for a manual if you don't have one. It will help with timing set up, and valve adjustment.

 

[HGM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie,

TDC is both on the compression and the exhaust stoke. Timing is set on the compression stroke, you will have to determine on which stoke it is on. Both the valves will be closed during the compression stoke, if you can't see the valves due to the fact the head is removed, <font color="blue">look at the camshaft and make sure none of the lobes are pushing up a lifter. </font>

Hope that explanation helps a little.

Derek )</font>

Just a side note, the valves will not all be closed at the same time(for every cyl).. TDC,for timing purposes, is on #1.. Set #1 to TDC(both valves must be closed).. That will be the compression(power stroke) and where you need to begin. The cyl's are likely paired and you will find that you can set the valve adj on more than one cyl at a time before you need to rotate the crank.. BTW, bar the engine over with a breaker bar untill you get it all done and then at least 2 full revoloutions afterward.. This way, if you do have a clearance issue, you'll be able to stop there,.. If you use the starter to rotate the crank, it will be too late when you notice a problem, then you'll have to do it all over again.. Unless there is something very different about this engine, you'll be fine with these recomendations.

 

[HGM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie,

TDC is both on the compression and the exhaust stoke. Timing is set on the compression stroke, you will have to determine on which stoke it is on. Both the valves will be closed during the compression stoke, if you can't see the valves due to the fact the head is removed, <font color="blue">look at the camshaft and make sure none of the lobes are pushing up a lifter. </font>

Hope that explanation helps a little.

Derek )</font>

Just a side note, the valves will not all be closed at the same time(for every cyl).. TDC,for timing purposes, is on #1.. Set #1 to TDC(both valves must be closed).. That will be the compression(power stroke) and where you need to begin. The cyl's are likely paired and you will find that you can set the valve adj on more than one cyl at a time before you need to rotate the crank.. BTW, bar the engine over with a breaker bar untill you get it all done and then at least 2 full revoloutions afterward.. This way, if you do have a clearance issue, you'll be able to stop there,.. If you use the starter to rotate the crank, it will be too late when you notice a problem, then you'll have to do it all over again.. Unless there is something very different about this engine, you'll be fine with these recomendations.

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks for the help on TDC. It's what I was thinking, but I'm not confident enough to assume anything. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

My neighbor was over yesterday and he suggested I replace all the rod bolts too!! When I get good advice from multiple sources, I take that advice and will replace all of them.

The journals look perfect! I just need to keep them that way when I slide the pistons back in. I'll use hose lengths on the rod bolts and take it nice and slow.

Is there a prefered location for the compression rings to have their gaps? Oposite ends of the piston?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks for the help on TDC. It's what I was thinking, but I'm not confident enough to assume anything. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

My neighbor was over yesterday and he suggested I replace all the rod bolts too!! When I get good advice from multiple sources, I take that advice and will replace all of them.

The journals look perfect! I just need to keep them that way when I slide the pistons back in. I'll use hose lengths on the rod bolts and take it nice and slow.

Is there a prefered location for the compression rings to have their gaps? Oposite ends of the piston?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[IH3444]

Eddie, I figured your journals were OK, the hose lengths are a standard installation tool, sorry I forgot that. I ususally place the compression gaps at 180 degrees from each other, over the wrist pin ends. I then turn the oil gap 90 degrees to that. Yours is a vertical engine so I don't think it makes any difference. I don't know which way your engine turns, or torques, but a good rule of thumb is to place the oil ring gap to the piston skirt that take the brunt of the downward power stroke. That way, if a bit of oil is sucked up pass it, that skirt gets the lube. The reason for the compression ring placement is that any compression blow by will not deposit any particles of soot onto the skirts, but will pass to the shortest distance to the crankcase, to be suspended by the oil. The skirts with any soot grit may cause the cylinder to wear prematurely, as well as the Aluminum skirt. You are doing a great job rebuilding this engine properly, and you will reap the rewards for the rest of you life with this engine. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif The story with the rod bolts, and nuts is that they stretch when torqued to specs, so the old ones should be replaced. Not necessary always true, but for a proper rebuild they should be replaced. Lots of assembly lube, and non detergent 30w for assembly, and you will be fine, and well on your way to a great engine. Some use oil on the connecting rod bolt threads, some use red locktight. I use locktight on ones I reuse, and oil on new ones.

 

[IH3444]

Eddie, I figured your journals were OK, the hose lengths are a standard installation tool, sorry I forgot that. I ususally place the compression gaps at 180 degrees from each other, over the wrist pin ends. I then turn the oil gap 90 degrees to that. Yours is a vertical engine so I don't think it makes any difference. I don't know which way your engine turns, or torques, but a good rule of thumb is to place the oil ring gap to the piston skirt that take the brunt of the downward power stroke. That way, if a bit of oil is sucked up pass it, that skirt gets the lube. The reason for the compression ring placement is that any compression blow by will not deposit any particles of soot onto the skirts, but will pass to the shortest distance to the crankcase, to be suspended by the oil. The skirts with any soot grit may cause the cylinder to wear prematurely, as well as the Aluminum skirt. You are doing a great job rebuilding this engine properly, and you will reap the rewards for the rest of you life with this engine. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif The story with the rod bolts, and nuts is that they stretch when torqued to specs, so the old ones should be replaced. Not necessary always true, but for a proper rebuild they should be replaced. Lots of assembly lube, and non detergent 30w for assembly, and you will be fine, and well on your way to a great engine. Some use oil on the connecting rod bolt threads, some use red locktight. I use locktight on ones I reuse, and oil on new ones.