Welder Recommendations

[wayne48]

Having acquired all the power and hand tools that I could want ( at least for the time being ), I've got the itch to buy a welder. Can anyone give me advice on what I should look for? Arc or Ox-Acy? Make and Models? Approximate cost?

I'm looking for something that I could use for general repair/fabrication work on my place. Probably wouldn't work with anything bigger than quarter inch angle steel.

Bear in mind that I'm a total novice when it comes to welders.
Any advice, pointers or recommendaations would be greatly appreciated.

 

[FL_Cracker]

If you plans are to weld mostly angle irons and steel plate then I would get started with a 225 amp arc welder like the Miller 225 ac/dc welder. Some models only come AC but it may be a little easier to do some jobs with AC/DC machine. This would be a good way to get started learning to weld. You could also go with a MIG machine in the 110v style and use flux core wire for welding lighter material. Miller also make a nice 220v unit that will weld flux core but come with a regulator so you can weld with a shielding gas. There a many ways to go and lots to learn.

Spending a little time taking a night class at a tech school will give you lots of information and a chance to try all the different ways of welding.

Although you can purchase a welder at many local stores like Home Depot, TSC, Northern Tool, etc I would stop in to a real welding supply/gas company and talk to them about your needs and they will be able to help you with a machine. My supplier, (Prax Air) will even set up the machine and let you demo it before you purchase.

Charles

 

[txdon]

Hi wayne48, Like many TBNers who find this site looking for tractor information you found this site to contain ALL information even remotely related to tractors. There are many knowledgeable people who visit this site regularly ready and willing to share their knowledge and expertise in this tractor loving community. Many people who never had any expectations of being a welder find themselves needing this skill for repair or fabrication of the tractor or implements or buildings for the tractor. I sure wish TBN would have a welding section.

Now to answer you question. A lot of people, like myself, just want to jump in and get-er-done. You did not mention your welding experience. I consider myself a novice after a semester of welding class at the local community college, (compared to W-Harv). I will always recommend a class or local college because there is a lot to learn and many ways to do welding improperly. The added benefit is that you will be taught to weld on all sorts of welders and materials. At the end of the class you will know which one works best FOR YOU and your projects. For me after the class I chose a MIG welder (Miller Passport) for the farm. The reasons were 110 and 220v and generator friendly. MIG is easier than stick for a novice /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif, it is very portable and light and can work off my golf cart and I can use gas (co2 paintball size in welder case) or flux core.

Good luck in your welding endeavors!

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I consider myself a hobby welder. I learned 20+ years ago in college using a torch and welding rod.

I now have a Miller Passport and love it (same model as TX Don). Its on the expensive side of welders but it is dual voltage (110v and 220v) and it is portable (its in a self contained suitcase). It uses compressed CO2 as shielding gas and the bottle fits inside the case so you can literally carry the whole unit to wherever you want to go. For modest duty welding it is a nice unit. Miller has a DVI unit that is also nice, less portable, but dual voltage so you can weld with either 110 or 220 it also has the type of capacity you are looking for. Hobart makes similar units that are probably the same quality as Miller.

I totally agree with FL Cracker. Go to a real welding store and talk to them. Welding class would be a great thing to do too.

 

[Captn_Dave]

I was a certified welder for years... fun to do but tough to make a living at.

I'd recommend a AC/DC welder, that can put out at least 100 amps with a 30%duty cycle.
Practice makes perfect.... and practice is the name of the game. Anyone can weld... but getting the right penetration and the right rod is the key to success.

Here is some keys:

1) prepare... clean is good...do not weld over rust and paint and remove all your slag.
2) it's better to be a bit hot (amps higher) than cold... cold lap welds break. No more than 3 passes on the same area and over lap the initial bead 1/2 way.
3) for DC welding use even number rods... like 6018 or 7018. AC welders need odd number rods like 6013. You can use any number rod with a DC welder, not so for AC welders. the higher the number the more tensile strength. A good all round rod is 7018.
4) Stick welding is harder to learn but easier to do. Anyone who's been doing a job for al long time knows what I mean. Play with different heats (amps)
5)Get a good mask and gloves. By "cheater lenses" if you need reading glasses (like me). DO NOT buy gloves that are thick, you loose your sense of touch.
6) learn to bench weld first, (looking down) then side ways... then up hill, then down hill.

If you practice a lot you'll do fine.

 

[wayne48]

To all you Gentlemen that responded to my post, Thank You!
It's always great to hear from people who have been there, done that.

I think I will start by taking a class as many of you advised and then go from there.

Thanks again.

Have a Saffe and Happy New Year. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[RonMar]

If you are typically going to be working with 1/4" and below, I would reccomend a MIG with flux core wire. The flux core wire stores well so you don't need an oven like you will with conventional welding rod. It will provide good results for the beginner right from the start without too much practice. I have shown several people how to use it dand they are always amazed at how easy it is. Far easier than stick. I would also reccomend lessons or a welding class to get your weld quality up there quicker.

I would reccomend a machine that can be expanded later. Some manufacturers sell a flux-core only machines where others such as Lincoln and Miller have entry level machines that come set up for flux core but can be upgraded with "gas' kits to make use of shielding gas to weld very thin sheet as well as Stainless and Aluminum.

I have a Lincoln Weldpack 100 with a gas kit that I have been using for many years. I bought it at Cosco. It is 110VAC powered and cost around $300 new. You can find the current version of the weldpack in most home depot stores. They also offer a 220V version. They are not very heavy to move around and do not take up much space. I keep mine in a cabinet under my workbench when not in use. I have taken mine to work several times as it was far easier to move around the ship than the onboard welding equipment. On my last ship, the DC's liked mine so much, they went and bought one for their shop as it could handle the majority of the remote repairs and new installations that they typically need to do and it didn't take them an hour to set it up for a job.

One of the best things about these small MIGs is that they will go down to fairly thin sheet metal. I have used mine to patch holes and weld in replacement panels in auto body sheet metal and it is excellent in fabricating exhaust systems. They are also great for assembly work. Hold part A against part B. Point the gun where the 2 parts meet and squeeze the trigger with a little flick of the wrist and you have a tack weld.

If I had a complaint, it would be the duty cycle limitations of the smaller machines such as the weldpack when working on larger material. I recently built a fork bucket for my loader and had to manage my assembly(weld for a bit, go cut out a new part, go back and weld for a bit) to keep up a steady work pace without exceeding the welders duty cycle and having to wait for the welder to cool down. Normal for me would be to cut, fit/assemble then weld. Doing it this way would sometimes leave me with a lot of breaktime during the welding portion waiting on the welder to cool. If you think ahead, it is not a real problem. For a machine with a higher dutycycle, you will pay substantially more money.

I may at some point get a stick welder but as yet I have not needed one. And even if I did have one, I would still grab for the MIG most of the time, even if only to do the tack welding/assembly work.

 

[LAXPatrick]

Good call - take the class and you'll likely get to play with a variety of machines. I was very happy with the experience (though it's tough some times when you want to just go out, buy the toy and start rippin'). My needs are similar to yours - I built a set of 4 horse stalls, welded all of the vertical bars. Other that that I mainly plink around in the 1/4" and under category, so MIG was the right setup for me. I ended up with a Millermatic DVI - it does 110 and 230 and has a decent duty cycle and some of the nicer features of their high end units.

Enjoy!

LAXPatrick

 

[automech]

All the power and hand tools I could want? Hmmmmmm..... I don't think I understand. I do use my oxy acet. torches more than either of my welders. That would be, and was my first purchace for my shop (assuming you have an air compressor). Depending on budget and projects, the welders would be next on my list. Stick welders can be had reasonably cheap and would be pretty versatile too.

 

[brewdog]

I bought a Lincoln Pro 135 from Lowes. It's a 110 volt MIG welder for welding up to 1/4" plate. The 110 Volt hook up is so handy. Did run the flux core for a while, but I got spoiled on the gas welding and been hooked ever since. What a great machine. Never thought I would use it so often. No regrets using it in my garge, its a perfect machine.

 

[RobJ]

I'll go against the grain a bit and say don't waste the time and money on a welding class. If you have the money and time then go for it. Money you spent there can go for a welder. Average Joe farm welding can be done with a little reading and LOTS of practice. Basic welding is not that hard at all. Welding exotic metals knoledge usually isn't needed around the farm. Just basic iron on iron. About the hardest thing a farmer will face is welding upside down. But a tractor with a FEL you can flip it over in no time.

I started with a Lincoln AC 225 from HD. Cheap and very powerfull. I waited on a mig until the Harbor Freight 110 Mig 90 went on sale for $99. Gasless it works decent. I found running it on a cheap extention cord lessons the power. A HD cord or a short run and it works nice. I have it at the weekend place. I compared it to a similar Lincoln that my brother in law has and it's really the same. I got it for welding 16 and 18ga tubing. The stick wants to burn a hole through it. I wanted a mig with more power (and cheap) so I waited for the HF Mig 120 (??) to go on sale. A 220v gas or gasless mig. 4 power ranged and a wire feed adjuster and this one has plenty of power. I just used this one to make 2 deer stands, a plow and harrow for my tractor. I've put 5 pounds of wire through it. Not a bad mig for $179. I found the Lincoln .035 wire to be a slight bit better than the HF wire. I have some Hobart wire on it now but have not used it. The flux doesn't work to bad. My welds are pretty clean but there is some splatter(little ball-eees) that needs to be gound or knocked off. I'd love a $600 mig but for less than that I have 3 at 2 different houses.

You will save some money on projects by welding. I have about $40 in each deer stand (16' ladder platforms) that go for $120 at the Gander store. Fun to build to. FIY around here 1" 16ga tubing goes for about $12 for a 24' piece, 3/4" for about $10.

Good Luck,
Rob

 

[Highbeam]

I've never taken a class. Even just watching someone weld has taught me plenty. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing but none of my welds have broken.

 

[dirtyharry45]

I started welding when I was a Kid 13 or 14 and all that was around were the 225 lincoln buzz boxes. They got me by until I started raising hogs and wanted the portability of the small migs, so I purchased a 130 millermatic 110 volt mig. I purchased the gas kit and it sufficed for about 3 or 4 years.
I mainly used it for welding up stainless feeders the hogs would bust up and gates etc.
I also operate a farm and sometimes the 130 was just a bit short for some of those projects so I sold it to a neighbor with hogs and purchased a millermatic 200! What a difference that is and I think I paid about 1400 something purchased on ebay from a distributor of Miller. (Indiana Oxygen Co.)
To make a long story short I wish I would have doubled my investment initially and bought a big enough welder from the start.

Just checked and it was a MILLERMATIC 210 I purchased !
He has several listed for 1259 .00 on EBAY. I added some extras like auto darkening helmet and consumables like wire,spatter spray,tips,etc to get to 1400.

If you want his name and number direct pm me i have them!
Just my two cents worth
dirtyharry45

 

[JRP]

"To make a long story short I wish I would have doubled my investment initially and bought a big enough welder from the start. "
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I took this kind of advice and bought a new Millermatic 250 size machine off ebay. No regrets. It welds 1/2" plate single pass, no problem. A 210 size machine is also adequate, but not as robust. I recommend you stay away from the 120 v mig units. They simply are not big enough for tractor implement welding. (If you question this statement then ask a professional welder.)

Recomendations for a quality welder you will not outgrow:
Miller brand 250 to 210 amp Millermatic machine (new or used). The current model is 251.
Buy off ebay. Many are new, no sales tax and free shipping (drop shipped from Miller factory).
0.035 Hobart wire
75% argon, 25& CO2 shield gas
220 volt machine, not 120 v.

If you can not get Miller, at least get a name brand like Lincoln or Hobart such that you can get consumable parts and advice from a local weld shop.

Be careful with MIG welding. If you do not have enoght power you can make a very pretty weld that has no penetration and is just adhearing to the metal surface. With power you can quickly learn to make safe and professional looking MIG welds.

The MIG wire is copper coated for rust resistance and better conduction. Even so, in humid areas like where I live it can develop very slight rust on the wire if left in the machine and humidity condenses on it. If you have humidity, take your spool off and store it in a tight plastic bag. Better yet, add a wire compartment heater. Mine is a 25 watt light bulb. It mounts into an outdoor grade floodlight socket I mounted thru the back of the machine. It plugs into 110 v outlet and slightly heats the cabinet interior, preventing condensation on the wire. Ten degrees temp increase prevents condensation. Electric cost is about $1.25 per month. See photo.

If you are strapped for cash a Lincoln cracker box would be better than a 120v MIG. An AC Crackerbox is much harder to learn than MIG. A used Millermatic 250 for $700 would be better than a new Chinese MIG.

The auto darken helmets are cool, but stay away from cheap ones. Spend your money on the welder welder size and stick to a traditional helmet if you can't afford both correct size welder and auto darken helmet..

 

[blackmajicwoman]

I was and still am a total novice when it comes to welding. I purchased a Millermatic 135 four years ago. The feature I liked the most was that it ran on 120v. Once I started learning to weld better and jump into more advanced welding projects, I found quickly that it just was not powerful enough. After a year, I ending up selling the 135 on ebay for about 90% of what I paid for it and reinvested in a Millermatic 175. This is the perfect machine for me. It runs on 220v and I have plenty of power to weld 1/4" no problem. I have gone up to 3/8" without a problem either. A great machine and it didn't break the bank.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Wayne,
All good information from many posters. Here is some more information that will make good reading for you.

First link is about arc welding.
ARC WELDING

This next one might be interesting as well. Scroll down to the "Old Welders Web".
MACHINE BUILDERS

Hope that helps a little.

 

[wayne48]

I am totally amazed at the amount of great advice I've gotten back on this post. Thank you all for taking the time to put your thoughts in writting.
Wayne /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MadDog]

I agree with JRP: I bought a Millermatic 251 about 6 mo. ago. It welds 1/2" w/no problems and is a pleasure to use. If the budget will allow it, you will inevitably want the capacity to weld thicker material, particularly if you are going to use it on tractor attachments. You'll save $ in the long run by getting what you really need the first time.

Hope this helps.

 

[40Kchicks]

I really like the speed of the mig welder. When I started welding I bought a Lincoln AC/DC buzzbox from Home Depot. It worked fine for the repairs around the farm and some medium sized projects. Eventually I was building buckets and blades for my tractors. I ended up tacking them together and then taking them to my brothers professional shop and having them finish the welds with the mig. Eventually I decided to get my own high power mig. I looked at Lincoln and miller and ended up getting a ESAB multimaster 260. This box does Stick, Mig and DC Tig. It works great and I have used the heck out of it. Most the time I use the mig function but it lays down a stick weld like butter. I don’t use the tig function much except when the welds have to be perfect like on a hydraulic tank I built.

I think this is more machine than you need to be looking at but with the others out there writing about how nice the large Millers and Lincolns are I just thought I would let you know how impressed I was with the ESAB machine.

Eric

 

[RobJ]

Just to add don't understimate the power of the Lincoln buzzbox. 220 or so amps will weld anything. Plus sticks are known for better penatration. Some engineers spec stick over migs on certain projects.

I forgot to address the oxy/acet, cutting torch, gas welder. I think a welder and a gas cutting/welding go hand in hand. Both are handy to have around. The gas can cut through an old bolt, heat and bend metal with a rose bud. For general use I would not go smaller than a B acte tank and an 80 oxy tank. Stay away from the small HVAC units. It you are cutting the oxy doesn't last very long.