Welding a Small Part

[Fawken]

A little background info: Our shop makes custom trailers for law enforcement and military customers. Right now we have 3 full-time welders on staff and are searching for two or three more. The guy who fabs the frames uses mostly MIG and some torch. Obviously, his MIG is a heavy-duty Lincoln that most farm mechanics would have to get a second mortgage to buy. He is the best frame builder in N.Texas bar none. Our TIG guy builds all the (aluminum and stainless steel) generator fuel tanks for every trailer we ship. He also makes the ladders, mast brackets, cabinets, and all custom fab parts. He has been a welder and fabricator for major NASCAR and IHRA teams for 35 years. He uses a Dynasty 700 with a water cooled torch. Lastly there is our youngest hand who has just completed 2 welding (certificate) courses at a Dallas community college. His machine is a Miller Synchrowave 250 with water cooled torch and currently he does exterior doors, hatches and some cabinet work. Me? I'm just the VHF and microwave radio guy and (sometimes) welder/plasma cutter repairman. Oh and I also do fiber-optics, high speed data, and CCTV when the customer needs those things.

 

[Shield Arc]

Haven't yet got welds spread like jiffy peanut butter on that gauge as SA did on his first try... Dang it.

Yeah, but it's easy for me. I've been welding for a whole month now!

 

[CNC Dan]

Shoot... I thought that was color code for diameter. I was using 9/16". I don't recall but I want to say it was red. Any clue what that means?

One of our suppliers color codes is for the precision of the stock, as well as the alloy.
EG: red is 303 ss with +-.005 tolerance , and green is 303 ss with +-.0005 tolerance.

 

[jmc]

F

Shoot... I thought that was color code for diameter. I was using 9/16". I don't recall but I want to say it was red. Any clue what that means?

Looks like there is no standard after all. From one supplier's site:

DRILL ROD - COLOR CODES

Some manufacturers paint the color code on at least one end of the rod. Others put a color-coded label on the package. There is no industry standard recognized by all manufacturers. Be careful to avoid confusion when you buy from different companies.

 

[Sodo]

Heres an example with a 3/8-16 nut.

Probably should use 1/16" thickness settings on the MIG. This is using the 14ga setting, and its a little too hot. I wouldn't use 1/8" thats too much heat for this tiny part.

Not sure if this fits the bill for appearance. In my mind I thought I could have welded it nicer but in reality this might be as good as it gets (without grinding). If it were mine though - it would be rattle canned & "done"

Could try the pulse method. What is this thing for?

 

[Shield Arc]

Tig welded.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Sodo thx for illustration. That would do the job, I might be tempted to get the other faces same way.

Shield now do it MIG!

 

[Sodo]

TIG rules for small welds. Someday I will have one.

Here's welds 4,5 & 6. I think I got it.. By welds 7,8,9 I'd have it dialed in & ready for the final part. Hoping SA will get the MIG out!

I recall now that "pulsed" is not the proper term for this method.

 

[Fawken]

Tig welded.

OK, darn it all. Now when I get done road grading, loading manure, and test riding a bike, I'm gonna go out and stick weld the damned thingy!:laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

As requested, Mig welded.

 

[Sodo]

Awesome! A "flapper MIG !"

Homeowner models only have "dumb" presets but the pros prefer to dial in the amps, wire speed and grit. :laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

Homeowner models only have "dumb" presets but the pros prefer to dial in the amps, wire speed and grit. :laughing:

Maybe dragoneggs will correct me if I'm wrong. When he brought his Miller 211 over for me to help him with welding that thin wall square tube. I had him set the machine just like he had it. He used the door chart. Far as I'm concerned the door chart was way off. :thumbdown:

 

[Fawken]

Stick weld:
#5 (used) nut to cast iron gas pipe connector (all I could scrounge)
AHP in stick DC mode
68 seconds

 

[downsizingnow48]

I'm stuck here in Sacramento, painting the house! My wife went out of town and I promised it would be done when she got back. And the welder is 4 hours drive at another place. So can't offer up my version. Going to make a half dozen of those things (pre-weld) before I leave here, so that a couple will turn out presentable.

 

[Sodo]

Pat by the time you get to your welder this threads gonna be 12 pages

Heres another using EMT (1/2" conduit), and the 3/8-16 nut.
MIG setting still the same, 14ga (which is .10" thick) &.030 wire. This works pretty good.

EMT is less than 1/16" thick

 

[kencunningham]

If you are concerned about the strenght of the nut, see if you have any nut and bolt companies around and try to get a 2H nut. It will be much heavier and of better metal quality.

 

[Sodo]

OK I see what this part is for. NOT a precision welding project (other than for "sport")

Seeing as this is an attachment to a hydraulic cylinder I think 3 tacks then MIG it all the way around in 2 or 3 welds then grind (if necessary) to fit inside that bore. What Shield Arc did. Not too hot, with concern for the 3/8-24 thread inside. I'd still use a 14ga setting. Looks like the whole part is hidden inside that SSQA pin (?).

 

[downsizingnow48]

On the hardware, these days I get almost everything from McMaster Carr. They have a shipping center in Los Angeles. They have the extra wide extra strong nuts. The nut I am using is a high hex nut, same width as a regular nut to fit into the space available, but about 50% longer, I want the extra threads on the cyl rod end.

On precision, agree, it is not the space shuttle, but the end product has to be straight and concentric, that is why I went to the trouble of making a press fit lip to seat the nut in the correct position on the tube prior to welding.

I will be happy with any of the welds shown! And appreciate the advice and illustrations provided. Many thanks.

 

[Fawken]

On the hardware, these days I get almost everything from McMaster Carr. They have a shipping center in Los Angeles. They have the extra wide extra strong nuts. The nut I am using is a high hex nut, same width as a regular nut to fit into the space available, but about 50% longer, I want the extra threads on the cyl rod end.

On precision, agree, it is not the space shuttle, but the end product has to be straight and concentric, that is why I went to the trouble of making a press fit lip to seat the nut in the correct position on the tube prior to welding.

I will be happy with any of the welds shown! And appreciate the advice and illustrations provided. Many thanks.

You're welcome. We all had fun- I hope.

 

[Sodo]

The best way to make that concentric is to put a taper on the nut, and have the thru hole fit tightly on a shanked 3/8-24 bolt. Snug it down then do your 3 tacks it will be very straight.