Welding Bucket Hooks!

[wushaw]

Thanks for the tips and suggestions guys. I'm thrilled to have a welder and I was thinking of taking a class to get the basics down. I know it will take practice. I do play musical instruments, so I can relate to what you all are saying. I know I won't be making great welds in the beginning.

Too bad you guys aren't in San Antonio. I'd hire you to weld my hooks on.

Go to the Hobart welding forums hobartwelders.com, there is a guy from Bulverde that might be able to help, his user name is dda52.

 

[Etch]

Go to the Hobart welding forums hobartwelders.com, there is a guy from Bulverde that might be able to help, his user name is dda52.

Thanks wushaw. I contacted him and he was ready to come out tomorrow night, but I don't even have the hooks yet..lol.

 

[Captinjack]

As a hobbist welder, I really improved my welds by using fresh rods. What a difference! My old rods were exposed to ambient air in my shop for years and were difficult to start and run a good consistent bead. I bought some new rods and shezzam.........nice beads and good penetration to boot.

I bought some HF rod containers and store my rods in them and only remove what I know I'll use up right away. After reading this entire thread, I thought this important tip would be helpful to other "nubbie" welders.

 

[patrick_g]

As a hobbist welder, I really improved my welds by using fresh rods. What a difference! My old rods were exposed to ambient air in my shop for years and were difficult to start and run a good consistent bead. I bought some new rods and shezzam.........nice beads and good penetration to boot.

I bought some HF rod containers and store my rods in them and only remove what I know I'll use up right away. After reading this entire thread, I thought this important tip would be helpful to other "nubbie" welders.

Hey Cap, Don't trash those old rods that don't work so well unless they are actually contaminated with oil or something that won't evaporate away. They just need to be properly dried out by low temp baking and then stored in an air tight container like you are doing with more recent "new" rods.

I buy my most frequently used size and type rods in 50lb boxes for economy and the lesser used ones in 5-10 lb. The 50's come in a plain not waterproof cardboard box. If stored where they can absorb moisture they will but just need to be properly dried and put in a sealed storage container. The containers at HF are OK but I bought some military surplus mortar round containers. They have a twist off lid that requires only a partial turn to open and have a good O ring seal to keep out the moisture carrying air.

Folks with serious intent in welding use rod ovens to dry/store rods. Low hydrogen rods like 7018 need to be baked out at much higher temps than the 60 series like the popular 6011,13.

Serious (well informed and expert) welding shops store their rod in thermostatically controlled ovens.

Home brew ovens are easy, especially for the 60 series rods which don't require very high temps. Some shops use an old refrigerator (with metal shelves so they don't soften and sag) and a light bulb as heat source with an easily procured thermostat to store a fairly large quantity of rod.

A couple sheet metal boxes, one inside the other with fiberglass insulation and a thermostat controlled heater (or light bulb) works. Light bulbs work OK for heaters but aren't the longest lasting solution. There are lots of other choices. There are things made and sold for gun cabinets, yachting use, ceramic cores with heater wire wrapped on them which have a light bulb type male thread to fit a porcelain "porch light" socket.

Pat

 

[CRAFTBENDER]

Thanks!

When I watched the video for the first time, I was suprised at how my face (the helmet) was right in the fume plume () as well. That was the first time I've seen myself weld.

However, although I could smell the fumes, very little was coming inside the hood... I never felt that they were overwhelming or annoying at any time... as you see in the video, they are convecting upwards, around the hood, and keep going upward... inside the hood is fairly fresh air. I certainly inhaled more smoke and fumes after I lifted the hood than I did while welding, no doubt about it!

I mostly tig weld but when I stick or flux core, I use a half mask with pink filters that are very flat and will fit under the welding helmet. Google 3m half mask. By the way, I'm gonna put some hooks on my BX24 and use your method. Thanks.

 

[gemini5362]

I just noticed this thread so I will put in my two cents worth a few times and maybe go for a dimes worth.


1. Welding hooks I did not see anyone mention that you can buy weld on hooks made for welding to things they are a hook with a flat side that makes it easy to weld. I got mine pretty inexpensively from a tow truck supply company. I dont remember the name of it but someone from TBN suggested it so you can probably do a search and find it.


2. I noticed someone asking patg about a hardoned surface and he mentioned hardening rods. You can also get a wire for wire feed welders that will allow you to surface harden things. I have seen it available but it is a bit pricey. I have a friend that sharpened the blades on his brushhog then ran a bead over them with a hardening rod and he said it was amazing how much of a difference that made.

3. Duty cycle- my welder has something like a 40 per cent duty cycle at the maximum rated amerage of 175 amps. When I looked at the specs you only have to come down a few amps. Something like maybe 150 and then it was showing 95 per cent. I have found that I have only used the maximum setting on my welder one time.

I realize that is only 6 cents worth but there will be other threads

 

[Etch]

I just noticed this thread so I will put in my two cents worth a few times and maybe go for a dimes worth.


1. Welding hooks I did not see anyone mention that you can buy weld on hooks made for welding to things they are a hook with a flat side that makes it easy to weld. I got mine pretty inexpensively from a tow truck supply company. I dont remember the name of it but someone from TBN suggested it so you can probably do a search and find it.


2. I noticed someone asking patg about a hardoned surface and he mentioned hardening rods. You can also get a wire for wire feed welders that will allow you to surface harden things. I have seen it available but it is a bit pricey. I have a friend that sharpened the blades on his brushhog then ran a bead over them with a hardening rod and he said it was amazing how much of a difference that made.

3. Duty cycle- my welder has something like a 40 per cent duty cycle at the maximum rated amerage of 175 amps. When I looked at the specs you only have to come down a few amps. Something like maybe 150 and then it was showing 95 per cent. I have found that I have only used the maximum setting on my welder one time.

I realize that is only 6 cents worth but there will be other threads

I just bought some weldable hooks from Truckntow. They're called pelican hooks. It was posted in another bucket hooks thread.

 

[xlr82v2]

As a hobbist welder, I really improved my welds by using fresh rods. What a difference! My old rods were exposed to ambient air in my shop for years and were difficult to start and run a good consistent bead. I bought some new rods and shezzam.........nice beads and good penetration to boot.

I bought some HF rod containers and store my rods in them and only remove what I know I'll use up right away. After reading this entire thread, I thought this important tip would be helpful to other "nubbie" welders.

You can also just short circuit the rod to your workpiece until it gets hot enough to "steam out" the coating. Takes just a couple of seconds, and works pretty well. Realize that, none of us here are making X-ray quality work, this is just "hobby" welding. Anyone out there doing X-ray quality welding will realize that short circuiting will not properly dry the rod to meet X-ray spec.

The 60 series rods and non-"low hydrogen" rods do not require the same meticulous care in keeping them dry... they are actually designed to be used with some amount of moisture in the coatings, and using them while too dry will actually impair their performance.

 

[weldingisfun]

I just noticed this thread so I will put in my two cents worth a few times and maybe go for a dimes worth.


1. Welding hooks I did not see anyone mention that you can buy weld on hooks made for welding to things they are a hook with a flat side that makes it easy to weld. I got mine pretty inexpensively from a tow truck supply company. I dont remember the name of it but someone from TBN suggested it so you can probably do a search and find it.

You can find them here too. Just do a search for weld on hooks. McMaster-Carr

 

[patrick_g]

The 60 series rods and non-"low hydrogen" rods do not require the same meticulous care in keeping them dry... they are actually designed to be used with some amount of moisture in the coatings, and using them while too dry will actually impair their performance.

Right on, 60 series have recommended storage temperatures for long time storage in a drying oven which are significantly lower than for low hydrogen rods like 7018. Still, the major rod makers have storage oven temperature specs for their 60 series rod.

Can you direct me to a reference where the need for moisture in a 60 series rod is given by competent authority?

Pat