Welding - I want to learn ..need advice.

[bobodu]

get a 225 to 250 amp stick welder used from craigs list for a hundred bucks.

get a friend to show you how to use it in about 20 minutes. It will do 99% of all the welds you need to do in your lifetime.

AMEN!!
Then you will be making welds that hold....you can worry about "pretty" later.

 

[jayste]

I learned in high school as well as a tech school after that. I agree with what most have said so far. School is going to teach you the basics and fundamentals of welding MOST of which is important to understand what does what but the real learning is striking arcs and running beads. Practice, practice, practice.....Like anything else, the more you do it the better you get. Practice in different positions and don't forget overhead. Yes, it stinks but at some point you'll have to do it. Some on here have discarded the idea of a tech school. Saying some of the instructors have issues. This I'm sure is true of all learning and instruction but could have been an isolated deal.

The Hobart machine IMHO is a minimum duty machine and would be ok for lighter gage material. Having 110V does have it's advantages for mobility. You'll probably be limited to smaller jobs and yes, multiple passes can be ran on heavier metal but penetration will be limited. I personally would recommend a nice 180-200 amp stick machine preferably with AC/DC if you can swing it. Most of these aren't too pricey (especially the straight AC model) and will last for years.

I'd start learning by using electrodes and then pick up wire welding later. Stick machines aren't that expensive and by learning it first will give you an even better appreciation for wire welding.

What ever route you take good luck and "stick" with it. Practice, practice, practice......

Jay

 

[JB4310]

AMEN!!
Then you will be making welds that hold....you can worry about "pretty" later.

Yup, pretty much the storey of my (welding) life.
Never had a weld break, even in critical apps like trailers and hitches.
But also never had a weld I could show you a picture off


As far as the AC kills talk, that must be the reason behind the warning label on my new to me machine, it's a Miller ac/dc, it's the bottom of the miller line but is called, by Miller anyway, "light industrial" I would seriously consider this machine for the one welder stable.
Anyway, right on the front of the machine above the AC lead outlets/plugs it says basically never use AC unless absolutely necessary (paraphrased) I now figure must be due to that greater shock hazard, whether real or perceived.

I think about all those times with my AC only buzz box, I welded my old plow trucks back together laying on the ground in puddles of water and slush, with home made, spliced and taped up leads
It's a wonder I'm still around.

 

[KeithT]

I went through a similar process when i built my shop. I wanted a welder I would not "outgrow" and one that would be simple to use. I settled on a Miller 180 Auto-set. It is a 220 V unit. Attached are pictures from the third time i used it. I used a stick welder 20 yrs ago when I was in an auto mechanic class, other than that I have no experience.

I have welded 5/16" thick metal fabbing new 3 pt stabilizers with no problems. I love this machine and am always looingk for projects.

 

[Bill_C]

Ah, the old "what welder to buy" question...followed by quite vocal opinions about stick vs wire, 110 vs 220 volt, red versus blue....

About wire feed (sometimes called MIG): I think there are two diametrically opposed schools of thought, each are absurd and the real truth is in-between. One school of thought says the 110 volt wire-feeds are just a toy, incapable of "real welding". The other extremity would be the absolutely beginner who buys a 110 volt wire-feed and thinks they can weld their Jeep frame that night, or that they can now weld thick structural stuff. In reality the 110 volt wire-feeds like the Hobart Handler 140 can do very good work within their limitations.

I now have 3 welders. I have a Lincoln 110 volt Weld Pak 100, loaded with .035 flux-core wire. Great for portability and outdoors work. Easily welds 3/16 inch if cleaned properly and good technique used. 1/4 inch is stretching it; do-able but ugly. Wouldn't want to use it for anything structural 1/4 or 3/8 inch or heavier, too cold. Must clean the slag off but a wire brush is all I usually need. For stuff like mower decks and thin steel it's incredibly useful though, very easy and the welds are good.

I also have a Hobart Handler 175, a 220 volt wire-feed running .035 solid wire with 100%CO2 gas. Works great on thicker stuff. Welds have great penetration even on thicker stuff IF the volts are set high enough, wire speed is acceptable, and stick-out is kept about 1/2 inch or so. Wouldn't hesitate to use it on structural/critical welds of 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch. But ya gotta run 220 to it (I have a 50 foot extension cord) and tote that tank around if you want to weld somewhere else, and welding outdoors must be done on calm days or using something to block the wind.

I also have a Lincoln AC/DC 225 "tombstone" buzzbox stick welder. Again, it's got it's place. Rusty or painted metal where surface prep isn't always possible? No problem, 6011 burns through the crud. But...technique is a tad more difficult, especially for out-of-position welding, and ya gotta clean slag off, and there's all those little stubs of electrodes to pick up later.

Bottom line, IMHO, there's no one "best welder". Folks have different requirements and different preferences. A welding class can expose you to different machines and processes, letting YOU decide what you need. Oh, and the instruction on proper technique would be good too!

 

[two_bit_score]

I'd have to say from recent experience that if one is looking at a welder from TSC or box store to also consider their local welding supply shop. You'll probly wind up in there sooner or later anyway for something .

We were looking at the Hobart welder at TSC for about $2995 and found a Miller Bobcat 225 at the local welding supply for the same price. We'd rather have the Miller for the same price but had thought it would be out of price range for us.

It will run a suitcase on the generator so we'll put it on a trailer with the bottles and torch and since it's compact we should still have room for a compressor.

Just don't rule out the local welding suppy shop with out checking their price too.

 

[Soundguy]

There is some good advice in this thread and some crap as well. .

Hmmm.. while I did see varried opinions.. I didn't see anything I thought qualified as 'crap' what did you see that you felt was totally useless and contributed nothing to the conversation at hand?

soundguy

 

[mjncad]

I have a Miller 210 that I like very much, and I'm self taught at welding. I bought my welder from the local Airgas branch and they included a spool of Airgas-Radnor 0.030" wire. I use shielding gas. I ran out of wire on the weekend and gave Home Despot a shot and they had Lincoln's SuperArc L-56 0.030" wire. What an immediate difference in weld bead using the Lincoln that I won't waste my money on the Radnor stuff again.

The first photo shows the last weld made with the Radnor wire, the next shows the first weld made with the Lincoln wire. The last photo shows a bead run with the Lincoln wire. I never could achieve that consistency with the Radnor wire. Using good quality wire has given me renewed confidence in my welding abilities.

 

[Chilly807]

I have a Miller 210 that I like very much, and I'm self taught at welding. I bought my welder from the local Airgas branch and they included a spool of Airgas-Radnor 0.030" wire. I use shielding gas. I ran out of wire on the weekend and gave Home Despot a shot and they had Lincoln's SuperArc L-56 0.030" wire. What an immediate difference in weld bead using the Lincoln that I won't waste my money on the Radnor stuff again.

The first photo shows the last weld made with the Radnor wire, the next shows the first weld made with the Lincoln wire. The last photo shows a bead run with the Lincoln wire. I never could achieve that consistency with the Radnor wire. Using good quality wire has given me renewed confidence in my welding abilities.

Nice looking welds you have there, not much spatter at all. I'm soon due to pick up a spool myself, I may give the Lincoln stuff a try. Any wire that meets the same specs SHOULD be of similar quality, but it doesn't always work that way. We need to remember that any spec is a MINIMUM requirement, any improvements in the wire quality above that level isn't always reflected.

Chilly

 

[JB4310]

. I settled on a Miller 180 Auto-set. It is a 220 V unit. Attached are pictures from the third time i used it.

I have a Miller 210 that I like very much, and I'm self taught at welding.

Both of these welds look professional, You can easily see the attraction of wire feeds, but they have to be 220 volt for serious/heavy work, like you would find the need for in Farm, construction field etc.

I call it caulking with molten metal, it comes out so nice.
I've got the early Hobart 135, it does a nice job but is limited to lighter tasks.

I would have to do alot more welding to justify the added expense of a good 220V unit, my stick welders sit out in unheated, zero climate control shed. Probably wouldn't want to leave your high end mig in those conditions.

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