Welding Question

[Dargo]

I'll second the ease of the 6013 rod. On a DC setting with my Hobart welder, I can teach my 10 year old to run a good bead in 1/2 an hour of training. Fortunately, for all but the strongest welds, the 6013 rods are a pretty good all around rod.

 

[lmiller]

Jim I bought the 80 amp unit cause I was feeling cheap, but I was still able to weld bucket hooks. Even though I'm 6 years out of practice with a stick I got enough penetration that when the stump was too big the back wheels came up /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Only problem with a 6 lb welder is that the 10 lbs of rod weigh down the bag /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously, I probably should have sprung for the 90 amp unit, Holzster, it would be easier to weld tractor thickness materials with a few more amps.

I'll have to try some 6013, I was using 7014 because I couldn't get some 6011 to strike. Maybe when I build that weight box????

 

[JimR]

Those little welders are so cute it might be worth dumping the tombstone in a graveyard for a much lighter unit. You could backpack that thing anywhere as long as you had power to run it.

 

[RichT]

Started out learning on a 120v Miller mig XP130. Great little welder, very versatile and will handle light up to 1/4in steel. Grew out of that and now have Miller 175, 220v mig rig. Love it. Neighbor has a stick welder, swears by it. Theres a welder for everyone. Practice practice practice. Get a good auto dim helmet.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I don't have a problem with 6011s. That's about all I use. 'course I fire it up with a Miller 251NT Trailblazer set at about 105 amps. The one thing a Trailblazer has that very few other welder/generators have is two generators. One 3 phase for the welding and a separate AC generator for the "plug in" stuff. Used it today as a matter of fact...BobG in VA

 

[wroughtn_harv]

Today my 251 Trailblazer got in six hours, most of them at a hundred and eighty amps. We cut out the original factory weld holding the wear bar on the bucket of a John Deere 655C late model which was fractured and rewelded it. I used about ten pounds of 7018.

I like the Trailblazer because it just flat out welds better than comparable machines. When someone asks me what the difference is between my Trailblazer and a Bobcat I tell them the Trailblazer comes with two magnets. One for the stinger and one for the ground. All the weldor has to do is change rods because the machine welds by itself. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It's almost a waste to run A/C rod like 6011 when you have such a fine DC machine like the Trailblazer. You need to try Lincoln 5P+ on positive. If you do that you'll never go back to 6011 even though it costs a third less.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( With a Mig you change over to a sheilded/flux wire. Essentialy becomes a wire feed welder.
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Yeah.. but the time involved in doing that can be substantial. With a stick welder you can use any rod, whenever you want to depending on application. If wind comes up.. no problem .. keep working.

On mig.. if wind comes up.. it would be quite a buzzkill to stop.. spend 5-10-20 minutes to convert to flux wire.. etc.. and then get just a tad better looking weld that stick anyway.

And yes.. I doubt you have the electrode versatility with mig as you do stick.. or if it is available.. I sure wouldn't want to have to keep 3-5 spools of different wire laying around that I might use once in a blue moon.. where as electrodes are cheaper and easier to store in smaller quantity.

Soundguy

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Thanks Harv for the hint on the 7018s. I'll give them a try! BobG in VA

 

[lmiller]

WroughtnHarv - so do you think my 80 amp machine would run the 5P? I'm relearning stick after 2 decades of MIG and, although the welds are holding, I'm worried about penetration with an 80 amp machine.

Lou

 

[Inspector507]

You could probably run 3/32 with an 80A machine, but I'd hesitate running anything larger with it.
5P+ is basically a 6010 rod. Deep penetrating, tolerant with dirty material.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

If your machine is DC, put it on DC+ and get after it, three thirty two will cook just fine. You can even do one eighth if you're working thin metal.

One of my dirty tricks just because I'm me is exchanging 6011 rod with my 5P+ when a fella's welding with an AC machine. It usually takes about three to four attempts to get a puddle going and seven times that amount of dirty words for them to figure out 5P+ won't weld AC.

I'll run about seventy amps DC+ with eighth inch rod when welding pipe fence that's galvanized whether it's schedule forty or schedule twenty I've even ran sixteen gauge with that setting but when I do I'm moving so fast it's like time travel. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif It's one of those things where if you're looking for a puddle you've already got a hole the size of a silver dollar to fill. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

One of the things I find intriguing about welding is it appears to me most people run their rod too hot. Yet.......when someone picks up my stinger and finishes a weld for me they'll invariably ask how I am able to work with it that hot. Go figure. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[lmiller]

It's an inverter so I'll give the 5P+ a shot. I remember from the last time I worked with a stick that as I got better I could drop the setting for the same quality. Hope that works this time too /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[kuby]

I have a 110 mig and an old 200 amp AC stick. Like others have said the mig falls short on the farm equipment and the old AC takes a little longer to learn but have began useing the 7018 3/32 ac at a setting of 130 amp and it welds with a nice strong bead. I use it for front end loader repairs and making buckets and Snowmobile lifts and love it.