Welding table build

[Mark @ Everlast]

I would add, that for center supports, I've seen all kind of crazy designs. but a simple ladder type construction for the base frame is best. I use flat bar for the supports instead of tubing because as I said, tubing isn't true in many cases. It also likes to pull if you weld it.

IF you want everything to stay true on the top, once you get things trued up, just tack weld the top in a few places. Don't heat it up and don't run welds longer than 1" every foot or so. If it is trued, then you won't need it.

 

[ovrszd]

Mark, I buy seamed tubing from a local farmer. He buys it bundle at a time to build pipe cattle corrals and gates. It's rejects. He lets me pick thru his piles and get the straightest without any splits. And like you, I'm usually making short runs with it building cages for Jeeps/Buggies. Once in a while he'll get some rectangular tubing or angle iron. It too is rejects. But if you sort thru the pile you can always find stuff that's useable. And it's dirt cheap.

I'll check into the P.O. Plate when I build my table. Thanks for the tip!!!

 

[DXN1EL]

I'll check the P.O. Plate when I build my table. A 1" 2' X 3' will do the job for now. I think

As always, thanks for sharing:thumbsup:

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

As ovrszd said earlier today, HUGE thanks to all for the lesson on heat shrinking. If I'm not happy with how flat I manage to get the table (or if I warp things more during welding), I now have options to correct it.

At least I can ratchet strap the plate straight to use as a surface to build on which will hopefully make the frame straight & square. Not insurmountable, just annoying and something I didn't expect to have to do with a $300 chunk of new steel

This table Viewing a thread - New Welding Table Pics. was one of the many I found with some features I liked. What I don't understand with it is why so much weld on the cutting slats for when they need replacement and I'd also wondered about warpage of the main beams with that much weld concentrated on the one side.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I'd planned on spending some time working on it tonight but ended up at the Fire Hall for a couple hrs checking equipment and never did get to the garage.

I've got ideas from many different builds I've found from searching and some of my own that will be incorporated into this. Hopefully by the weekend I'll have all the prep work done and can start tacking things together and get some better pics for you guys of something more than a stack of steel and cleaned up joints.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

That table (from link) is overbuilt for 1/2 plate....It would work well with 2" plate or thicker. There's no need for one that much support. It would hold up a D7 dozer. The key to learning fabrication is to use materials wisely...make it strong enough, a little overbuilt maybe, but not something that heavy. You learn nothing about building by making it that way. Personally, I'd just make some brackets out of some of the flat bar that would "sandwich" the lengths of flat bar for a cutting surface and bolt them in or build a perimeter frame around it so they could just lay in without the bolts.

 

[Arc weld]

I like the Procedure Handbook. I just wish it had more pictures. Given the right topic I'll remember lots of pictures I've seen in the past. I think the curved beams show just how accurate and useful heat can be with the right person using it.

In that picture it looks like there a lots of those curved beams in the background. Maybe the guy who taught you worked on those?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Hey guts; what is this "Procedure Handbook" you keep referencing. I think I want one! I can do pipe straightening and warp prevention but not adept at the other shapes.

Ron

 

[Shield Arc]

Ron here is what the Procedure Handbook looks like. I'm sure you can still get them on Lincoln's site, and may be the cheapest way.
Here is another good book on heat shrinking of shapes, the guy is good with shapes, but a little weak with plate, as I' am.
Books

 

[Will S]

.... Personally, I'd just make some brackets out of some of the flat bar that would "sandwich" the lengths of flat bar for a cutting surface and bolt them in or build a perimeter frame around it so they could just lay in without the bolts.

Mark, I bought a piece of 1/2"x28"x46" steel for my first welding table, and am trying to lay out an appropriate frame; strong, but not over-the-top. I had considered using 3" 'C' channel, or angle iron, for a ladder frame. Never thought of using flat-bar.

Can you provide a simple sketch using your suggestions? Thanks.