Welding vs Bolt on

   / Welding vs Bolt on #1  

p0peye

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
51
Location
southern tier Ny
Tractor
JD 2520
Which would be stronger the welded on trailer D-rings if weld is about 1'' on each side of bracket vs bolt on D-rings with 2 bolts 1/2'' grade 8 course thread or would they be about the same? Does the welded one become part of the trailer and not a weak point?
 
   / Welding vs Bolt on #2  
Welded will be much stronger provided the welds are quality. If you're doing it as a DIY project, you may want to do the bolt-on method as it's more DIY friendly.
 
   / Welding vs Bolt on #3  
How thick is the material you'll be welding to/drilling thru?
 
   / Welding vs Bolt on #4  
How thick is the material you'll be welding to/drilling thru?

Very relevant for understanding what sort of Working Load Limit the mounted ring will have when done. Does this play in when considering whether to weld or bolt on?
 
   / Welding vs Bolt on #5  
Majority of the time I weld them on, but will bolt if I don't want to screw up the paint.
 

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   / Welding vs Bolt on
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Material is 3/16 angle iron.
 
   / Welding vs Bolt on #7  
You can always do both. Seen it done plenty of times.
 
   / Welding vs Bolt on #8  
Majority of the time I weld them on, but will bolt if I don't want to screw up the paint.

"Paint"... Good item to focus on... Paintend metal can be ground, cleaned, welded to, and repainted. Powder-coated is a bit different as you can't do a "touch up" on powder coating. You can either strip the whole thing and re-coat, or you can cover the bare metal with paint and deal with it looking a little different.
 
   / Welding vs Bolt on #9  
Material thickness does enter into the decision. If there's sufficiently thick material, the bolts will have enough bearing area that they don't yield the sides of the hole. Good bolted joint design would also suggest that the part of the bolt that bears against the hole is a smooth shank; not threads. Other good design practices: as smooth a hole bore as you can manage - reamed, if you can. Also, hole size just a tad bigger than the bolt shank will reduce bearing stresses, too. And don't forget to put thick, flat washers between the nut and the hole! I have hooks bolted to my FEL and they have handled some good sized loads - I've maxed the 724kg loader lifting logs with them. I never apply a jerked load to them - at least not intentionally. They rely on static friction of the clamped joint to stay put up until the point they start to slide, then dynamic friction takes over, and it's much less helpful. Before you know it the clearance between the bolt and hole have disappeared and now the bolt and the metal on the sides of the hole start loading in shear and compression. That's when a smooth hole, smooth bolt shank and large contact area keep everything from going "DOINK".
 
   / Welding vs Bolt on #10  
Yes I should have specified powder coating. I have two PJ trailers, both powder coated. I'm totally convinced Ray Charles did the coating.:laughing:
Here is a bolted D-ring on my dump trailer.
 

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