Well Pump Planing???

   / Well Pump Planing??? #61  
As stated lifting the pump from 100 feet should not be a major job.:)

Think about pulling it, installing larger tubing, and installing a pitiless adapter and getting the power supply done properly. That would make for a proper setup.

Next clean up the wellhead piping and install a hydrant for the irrigation. Again that should not be too difficult.

Sounds like a lot of work but it will make life easier by having a system that is proper.:thumbsup:

‪How to install a pitless adaptor‬‏ - YouTube
 
   / Well Pump Planing??? #62  
No, it does not hurt to tee off as long as there is no check valve between where you T and where the pressure switch is.

The well seal sits on top of the casing, the pump drop pipe sits on top of the well seal. You have to lift up the drop pipe, release the pressure off the well seal, and then you can remove the well seal. As long as you are supporting the drop pipe, the well seal can be removed. If you try to mess with it while it's holding up the weight of the drop pipe, the drop pipe can fall into the well.

Hope this answers your questions.

The Goose is right on this.

If you manage to let the drop pipe, pump, and wire fall into the well, getting it back out is very expensive.

I would call a pro and get his estimate to change that elbow out. It will not be very expensive, and he will have the right equipment to do it. If he drops it into the well, then it is his financial responsibility to get it back out.

When you replace it, replace the reducing elbow with a full-size (1-1/4" in this case) pipe tee. Place the tee so there is a side arm which will correspond to the current configuration of your elbow, and then cap the vertical outlet part of the tee with a pipe plug. This is a much more versatile arrangement. It allows you to attach anything else you want to by simply removing the pipe plug, no special tools, no professional help, no danger of dropping the down pipe into the well.
 
   / Well Pump Planing???
  • Thread Starter
#63  
The reducing elbow is goofy, and the whole setup is marginal. Looks like plumbing has been added w/o unions, and the wiring is completely unprotected. There should be a check valve just off the wellhead, and a pressure relief valve.

If the pump's only down 100 feet or so and drop tube is 1", it wouldn't take much of a hoist to lift the pipe and change the fitting. You MUST be able to grab the pipe securely while removing that elbow, though! You definitely won't be able to remove half the well seal until you get the drop tube lifted. The seal goes down into the casing about an inch. It has to come up before it can move sideways.

-Karl

When we bought the plave there were no unions in the setup at all. The pressure tank went out and I added unions when I did the tank R/R.

It does have a pressure rerelief valve, but it's to the left in the brass tee the goes to the pressure tank.

Check valve I don't think it has one.
 
   / Well Pump Planing??? #64  
when using glued pvc, unions arent needed for a new install. and the only check valve should be down the well at the pump.

as far as a pitless, they are only useful when the well head is prone to hard freeze. if its not, its much easier and cheaper to work on an exposed well head.

oh yeah, jfyi you cant remove half the well seal without cutting the rubber. a well seal is 4 pieces of metal (top metal part is split, and bottom metal is split) put together with 4 bolts, with a rubber between the metal. when the screws are tightened.. the rubber tightens the drop pipe to the casing. the rubber between the split metal is one piece.
 
Last edited:
   / Well Pump Planing???
  • Thread Starter
#65  
when using glued pvc, unions arent needed for a new install. and the only check valve should be down the well at the pump.

as far as a pitless, they are only useful when the well head is prone to hard freeze. if its not, its much easier and cheaper to work on an exposed well head.

oh yeah, jfyi you cant remove half the well seal without cutting the rubber. a well seal is 4 pieces of metal (top metal part is split, and bottom metal is split) put together with 4 bolts, with a rubber between the metal. when the screws are tightened.. the rubber tightens the drop pipe to the casing. the rubber between the split metal is one piece.

Thanks for the info on the seal. :thumbsup:

Being South Carolina freezing isn't an issue. ;)
 

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